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TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
Well, I've frequented this board since, well, as long as I can remember and I never even saw this section before.
I posted up in the lounge that I had purchased a roller and now am having second and third thoughts on what direction to take it.
That said it is rusty. Not Flintstone stop with your feet through the floor but pretty noticeable. It is a 1986 TType so one of 1921 and it is pretty nicely optioned with the regular power win/locks a trunk kit and twilight dentinal. My original plan was to cut the quarter off it for my og we4 but a buddy was over to the house and thought I should rethink that as it is a 1986 TType. No engine or trans but does have the 8.5 rear and most of the body stuff. With the price of these cars steadily climbing I'm kinda of the view to try and put this one back together and drive it.
It was pointed out that the rear seat floor sections aren't available so I would probably cut out the rusty sections and weld in some sheet. Is this a bad idea? Looks like gbody sells a cross member and it looks like I might need something like that .
I have the rear seat out and it has holes where I think it is above that crossmember. I don't have the front carpet out yet but it doesn't look like the front pans have holes yet. We will see when I get that far. Door bottoms are crusty but I guess cutlass doors can be swapped in and I can get those local pretty easily for $50-500 a pair.

Any thoughts on my project? Advice is taken and welcomed really. I will see about getting some pix up. I ordered one of these little hand held sand blaster things and some black beauty abrasive. I guess I need some kind of mask/respirator to wear. Any advice on that would be good too.

Thanks.
 

RED LS1

SENIOR MEMBER
I would definitely post pics. Or at least what's the color combo? Hows the paint and body and how's the interior? That stuff all makes a difference on where to go with it. For me, the idea of a Resto never makes sense because you could be $30-40k into a car worth $15-20 when done. If it had a drive train it sounds like it would make a great driver. Without the drivetrain I don't know. I acquired a GN with a blown and destroyed motor and the thought of rebuilding at the time didn't interest me so I found a complete 4.8 LS motor for $700, 4L80 Trans, and $800 Truck Turbo kit with $1200 Turbo. I threw it all together and then had a guy desperate to buy it so I sold it. He has it now and says it's a great running car and very fast.
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from

Not great pix but you can see the rust on the deck lid

I pulled the trim around the window off and it doesn't look too bad under it. Interior is what you might expect for a 30 yr old car. Better than my we4 that spent most of its time in the Texas sun. And I have a grey leather setup that would probably go into it. Car originally white with grey velour. Would probably paint it a different color and put chrome trim on it. I know, not original but it is missing the engine and trans. But I do have the engine /trans In The og we4 and a couple 4.1 blocks I could out together. As well as a brf and an AA 2004r transmissions.
Gonna get it apart and put some media to it and see just how far gone the sheet metal is.
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
What I have is a rusted out hole about where the rear seat hook is welded to the floor. It is under the seat and the car had a musty smell to it and the under side of the seat being wet was why. Trunk floor looked pretty good but the trunk kit had water stains on the back of it too. I figured I could attach some poster board in it to revive it . I'm not a show car or even a car shows kinda guy. But I do want it to be weather tight and drive able in whatever without worrying about it getting wet inside. I'll see what I can get for pix and get some feed back on solutions. As one posted in the other thread, slather it down in blo and get after it will work for me as long as it will drive and I can take it to the track.
 

regan j

Member
If you are going to sandblast you ABSOLUTELY need a respirator. Same for priming or painting. Do not do any damage to your lungs and eyes are very nice to have two of also. Respirator filters have ratings so make sure it will filter out for what you are using it for.
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
Do you have a suggestion of what I need to be looking for? I'm cheap but ppe is something I will generally drop some coin on as I like to see and breathe. I have a cool face shield I like to use when grinding and cutting. And I just use a fixed shade welding helmet as I'm too cheap to drop the money on a autodarkening helmet.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from


Kind of a gaping hole.

I looked at 3m stuff and looks like I can get a 6200 half face mask and some inserts to do silica and I think that will do. Not sure.
Gonna put in an order unless there is something better or someone doesn't think this would work.

Thanks for the input.
 

gsgns4me

Member


Kind of a gaping hole.

I looked at 3m stuff and looks like I can get a 6200 half face mask and some inserts to do silica and I think that will do. Not sure.
Gonna put in an order unless there is something better or someone doesn't think this would work.

Thanks for the input.

I think the 3M 6200 would be a good choice. NAPA usually has good respirators, if you don't want to order online.

Looks like the minimum you would want to go with would be a N95 type mask...N95 Masks and Media Blast®

Silicosis is not pretty....Hawk's Nest Tunnel Hawk's Nest Disaster
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
The Napa I would deal with is over an hour away and most of the stuff I buy comes from the interwebz. So onward to order up a 3m 6200 series and some media to go in it. I guess it might be better to just grind it but is seems like a blaster would uncover it and I could see just how big a patch I need to make. And if the hole gets big enough I might be able to see how much the frame has disappeared.

Crazy how rust just goes to work and eats it until there isn't much left.
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
I ordered up one of these and some replacement filters . Near as I could tell the p100 kind filter 100% by the 3m site.
Also got some twisted wire cup brushes for the 4.5 grinder. So we will be hitting the rust best I can. Then welding in some new metal in the floor. I watched some YouTube and it doesn't look that hard. We will see
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
I managed to come upon a body and frame a guy wants to get moved. So this sat we will be heading over to pull it up on the trailer and bring to the house to cut up. Has a decent quarter what looks like a good frame and some good floor sections to use on this little project.


Anyone good at decifering the cowl Tag? 19u and 19L I believe to be black upper and lower. And the AR9 I think is the bucket seats. Am I on track? Any thing else we could discern from the tag?
I'll get some more pix when we pick it up. It is/was a black car. No rear but some good metal to use. I'm pretty excited but the wife isn't too thrilled with another one coming home.

On another side note my local guy who does my converters has my torque converter redone and ready for my old 94 Suburban. I put a 4l60e together and wanted the converter looked over. So that will get our back together and hopefully become mobile to give me another space for the next project. It will be a 4T65e for the son's Pontiac gp with the sideways 5.3 ls3. I told him to quit beating on it but like his dad he managed to tear up the trans.

Thanks for any input
 

Anthony P

sharing knowledge with those who care to listen
see attached pdf I made for the cowl tag...
 

Attachments

  • Fisher Body Tag.pdf
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TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
Cool. I'm off to decifer build dates on my two in the garage.
Good info, thanks for posting.
 
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