Witch turbi

Roosa50441

New Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2019
I'm getting geared up to purchase my turbo. Need input on witch one. I have stock converter now but will buy a aftermarket one if I need to. So with that being said heres a list of what I have done so far..
60# injectors
8an fuel feel
6an fuel return
Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator
Will be building a 3 inch or 3.5 down pipe and be using external waste gate off the header
340 fuel pump
Will be running c16 at the track and might purchase methonal kit
Have gen 2 maf translator with 3" maf
Front mount intercooler with 3" pipe
New valve springs
160 t stat
Ford 9" rear end
Aftermarket trans cooler
Bluetooth scanner from John wales
Like I said i will replace the converter to match my setup. It will be a street/strip car..
 
Call Bison, and get his input. Then, order one from him. It'll be the correct turbo.
 
Did buy this thing this way?

Sounds like a few mods are out of sync with the normal method of procedure for moving forward with performance enhancements.

Did you have help choosing your path to your goal?
 
Call Bison, and get his input. Then, order one from him. It'll be the correct turbo.
Did buy this thing this way?

Sounds like a few mods are out of sync with the normal method of procedure for moving forward with performance enhancements.

Did you have help choosing your path to your goal?
I got the car and it was running very poorly. With 43# injectors with 93 tune chip. I've bought all the parts above and will be installing them when I get some time here in the next few weeks. What sounds out of place?
 
I'm getting geared up to purchase my turbo. Need input on witch one. I have stock converter now but will buy a aftermarket one if I need to. So with that being said heres a list of what I have done so far..
60# injectors
8an fuel feel
6an fuel return
Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator
Will be building a 3 inch or 3.5 down pipe and be using external waste gate off the header
340 fuel pump
Will be running c16 at the track and might purchase methonal kit
Have gen 2 maf translator with 3" maf
Front mount intercooler with 3" pipe
New valve springs
160 t stat
Ford 9" rear end
Aftermarket trans cooler
Bluetooth scanner from John wales
Like I said i will replace the converter to match my setup. It will be a street/strip car..
turbo and fuel system should be chosen based on how much power you would like to make and how responsive you want the turbo to be on your motor.with a stock motor you will have a limited rpm range and the heads dont flow well so size the turbo no larger than 62mm imo.any 44/49, 60,61,62mm turbo will work on the stock motor, you can go up to a 64mmbb if you have the intention to grow with heads/cam.the smaller you choose the better the response on the stock motor.the tune/converter plays an important role in response as well.
 
turbo and fuel system should be chosen based on how much power you would like to make and how responsive you want the turbo to be on your motor.with a stock motor you will have a limited rpm range and the heads dont flow well so size the turbo no larger than 62mm imo.any 44/49, 60,61,62mm turbo will work on the stock motor, you can go up to a 64mmbb if you have the intention to grow with heads/cam.the smaller you choose the better the response on the stock motor.the tune/converter plays an important role in response as well.
This is correct and accurate.
 
I got the car and it was running very poorly. With 43# injectors with 93 tune chip. I've bought all the parts above and will be installing them when I get some time here in the next few weeks. What sounds out of place?
Well, take the 9" for instance. Most guys wouldn't bother with that until the stocker blew up. And that doesn't normally happen before 500 or more horsepower.

Upgrading fuel lines is usually unnecessary and is left alone until 10 second performance. Especially when using race fuel, or alky injection. E-85 would require a fuel line upgrade before then.

Plans for an external wastegate may be a bit overkill for a set-up only requiring a small turbo upgrade.

Front mount intercooler with 3 inch pipes? Before a turbo? A little out of sync. No?

Unless, you are gathering what you are going to need to build a 700 horsepower car. And then you can skip the turbo because it wont be big enough, skip the converter because your going to need a whole transmission anyway, loose the injectors because your going to need 120's, loose the MAF translator because your going to go XFI........ so on and so on.

The standard procedure (although many have not followed it) would be to make the car run like a perfect dream in it's stock form, tuned and serviced to perfection. Then draw up a clear and decisive plan to get it exactly to the level you are going to want it at. Determine what you are willing to sacrifice and what you are absolutely positive about keeping. This will help you create a budget (which you will then double for realistic proposes) and a time line (which you will then triple for realistic purposes) to create a plan for moving forward.

So, What's the goal? And then what's the plan?
 
With stock heads and cam I would shoot for a 6262 that turbo will give you some room to grow if you do decide to go with Heads and cam. Solid 10 sec turbo.
 
NY Twin said "The standard procedure (although many have not followed it) would be to make the car run like a perfect dream in it's stock form, tuned and serviced to perfection. Then draw up a clear and decisive plan to get it exactly to the level you are going to want it at. Determine what you are willing to sacrifice and what you are absolutely positive about keeping. This will help you create a budget (which you will then double for realistic proposes) and a time line (which you will then triple for realistic purposes) to create a plan for moving forward.

So, What's the goal? And then what's the plan?"

This is exactly how I did it/had it done. I bought the car from Lou Czarnota just after it had been lovingly restored to California (CARB) emission's legal. ran like a dream.

I sat with Lou and discussed my dream for the car (an 11 flat, good street mannered car) . He said "I can do that for you." and he did. As a matter of fact, for some extra moola, we ended up putting it in the mid to low 10's. I listened to his sage advice and proceeded accordingly.

Now i'm on my second build with him and this should easily be a 10 flat car, still with great street manners. So far, it's living up to my expectations, we will see what a track day nets very soon. :)

Good luck with you build!
 
Good advice in posts 11,13 it takes careful planning and end goals in mind, you can easily end up with a $65 thousand dollar turbo buick thats worth $25k like me.. :cool:
 
Good advice in posts 11,13 it takes careful planning and end goals in mind, you can easily end up with a $65 thousand dollar turbo buick thats worth $25k like me.. :cool:


I have a lot of money in mine. too. I'll never recoup it but that's not the point, is it? ;)

I have a li'l bit of street cred here in Phoenix. Some strip cred, too. I'll take that.....
 
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I have a lot of money in mine. too. I'll never recoup it but that's not the point, is it? ;)

I have a li'l bit of street cred here in Phoenix. Some strip cred, too. I'll take that.....
Im exaggerating the money a bit but not by much, alot of its my own fault for testing 20 different turbos,converters,intercoolers and combo's in the last 25 years but all in all no matter what car you have it cost money to experiment , but thats the fun part.;)
 
I have a lot of money in mine. too. I'll never recoup it but that's not the point, is it? ;)
I have a lot of money in mine. too. I'll never recoup it but that's not the point, is it? ;)
No it is not. And never will be. A cars is never lovingly restored and built for profit. If a profit is made by the builder, then the buyer is retarded or the seller is a scumbag. Or both. And I don't care what TV show tries to convince me otherwise. Or any of you for that matter. So no one even try.

You build what you want when you want it and keep it as long as you love it, then that's it! That's what you get out of it. Done.

If you did this, kept it for 25 years, and still love it today, then you have made a profit. Because everything you would have bought from some dealership just because it's the new thing, or some other shit-box because of some fleeting passing interest, would result in doing it over and over and again and again. And this is how you find yourself financially ruined due to an addiction for a constant quick rush of satisfaction that never seems able to be satisfied. If you find yourself in this place, get help. Because your retarded. Or your rich.

The trick is to keep it! Love it. Change it. Finish it. Or just drive it. Even if you put 100,000 dollars into it over the course of 20 years You will never loose more money than doing what I have described above over the same stretch of time.
 
Good advice in posts 11,13 it takes careful planning and end goals in mind, you can easily end up with a $65 thousand dollar turbo buick thats worth $25k like me.. :cool:
Can you buy a 65,000 car you like more than your TR? If no, than you have done well.

I know I can't buy any car for any amount I like more than my TR. But maybe that's just me. I feel lucky for that. And lucky I don't have that disease. And when the day comes when I need to be happy again, I'll put 20,000 more into it. And I'll still be ahead of selling it and starting with some other shit-box. Or I can sell it. And give up on cars all together..........

But then I will always long for the days I was able to drive my TR and feel the life a rock-star.
 
Im exaggerating the money a bit but not by much, alot of its my own fault for testing 20 different turbos,converters,intercoolers and combo's in the last 25 years but all in all no matter what car you have it cost money to experiment , but thats the fun part.;)

Same here ...60-1, 6162, 6262. 6266; 6465. 6466, T64, 6665, 6965

Couple hints imo for stock head /stock motored guys... You can run the .82/85 ar housings as long as you pair it with 62 turbine...lots of people using the 65/66 turbine with Ball Bearing with .63 and spool will suck with a tight street converter. 65/66 is too big and not needed imo.

I don’t care what the dragoon’s say about the bigger housing and slower spool...I run a .82/85 on everything! It’s safer! Less back pressure, easier to control boost and safer on the street!

Just like I won’t run a 44/49 at 27#+ with alky! Some will! Running too small of a compressor out of a efficiency range ...what happens if the alcohol cuts out? What’s your IAT’s /Delta at that point?
Just say you went fast with a small wheel???

7+7 compressor wheel is up to date is good at our boost levels...torque monster
Like PTE gen 2 ..5862,6466 and Reid Gen 3 , Bison

And finally throw the heavy duty actuator in the trash...Get a standard actuator!!! Set the boost at half desired boost level with the actuator then move it up with a manual boost controller. So say 26/27 set cracking pressure 15#. Don’t run a heavy duty actuator by itself!!! Retarded High preload see people set it 26# and Expect not to get any spikes with HD... The wastegate is going to open at that point NO way are you going to control boost. It’s not a light switch lmfao you can’t just turn the boost off/on instantly...especially with a small A/R
 
Lastly Don’t care if the compressor wheel runs out of steam before the exhaust housing becomes an issue...If you’re running the compressor out of its efficiency range that’s wayyyy worse than having too big of a exhaust housing lol. Like 60-1 tiny 59mm doesn’t like manifold pressure above low 20’s still ppl run 27+ and spray a whole bunch of alcohol to cover up the mistake lmao!
Granite we don’t know what exhaust wheel they used for the compressor map test with 60-1 BUT it tells you it’s not a good pressure wheel!

This is just my opinion not trying to sound like a jerk.
 
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