Wheels, tires, moldings some hard to find nos ect

GNPL

Member
Hi folks. I own 87 GN and it seems it is the only one here in Poland, Europe. Looking for advices and recommendations for combo.

I would like to have reliable car that is fast on the street, not for the drag racing.

After reading info at Internet, I think I need to replace the chip that I have - seems it is really old school set up in it, and I am not going to drive 107 octane.

Actual chip: Red Armstrong 107 octane race chip.
Picture: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NnWqncmQJrcZdUNK6
Actual injectors:
32 lb Stock Replacement Tomco Disc Injectors
Part Number: D1720BA / 2768
http://www.gnttype.org/te…/pictureguides/injectors/32lb.html
Actual turbo:
Cold side: Gerrett M24L A/R60, TE44 (58mm)
Hot side: Garrett .63
Actual intercooler: non stock, front mounted - I don't know the manufacturer. I can measure the dimensions.
Picture: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UwmazjiS4zuBmWtU8
Actual down pipe: 3"
Actual exhaust: 3" from http://buickgn.com/CatBack.htm
Actual TQ converter: 3200 stall
Actual fuel pressure regulator: stock
Actual MAF: stock
Actual MAP: stock. Picture: https://photos.app.goo.gl/k7qHoePmU9NcBVPNA
Actual fuel pump: Kirban Performance: HIGH-PERFORMANCE IN-TANK REPLACEMENT FUEL PUMP KIT #1540:
https://www.kirbanperformance.com/…/HIGH-PERFORMANCE+IN-TAN…
Actual internals of the engine: unknown
Fuel octane that will be used: 95-98 octane
What do you Guys think - what should I change / upgrade while chip replacement ?
I am thinking about one of those chips:
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/turbotweak-buick-v5-7-chip…
or
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/bailey-engineering-extende…

Thanks for any input.
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from




You will need a way to measure the fuel pressure. A gauge and hose setup of some kind to set base fuel pressure and see it as the boost comes and make sure the fuel pressure rises with the boost. A new fuel filter and possibly new fuel pump and sock depending on the fuel pressure testing.
 

jasjamz

THS Racer
Actual chip: Red Armstrong 107 octane race chip.
Suggestion: Replace this with a Turbo Tweak 5.7 chip set up for 95 Octane order a Chip/Injector combo.

Actual injectors: 32 lb Stock Replacement Tomco Disc Injectors
Suggestion: Replace these with the 80lb or 60lb injectors from Turbo Tweak


Actual turbo: TE44 (58mm)
Hot side: Garrett .63
Suggestion: Keep this turbo till it dies!

Actual intercooler: non stock, front mounted
Suggestion: Its there now so leave it be.

Actual down pipe: 3"
Actual exhaust: 3" from http://buickgn.com/CatBack.htm
Suggestion. This is fine

Actual TQ converter: 3200 stall
Suggestion: Little loose for the "standards" today but I bet it spools quick and makes the car fun on the street. Leave it there for now.

Actual fuel pressure regulator: stock
Suggestion: Get an Adjustable unit from Kirban. I don't really like the Accufab ones.

Actual MAF: stock
Suggestion: It will die soon so order a MAF Translator and a 3" or 3.5"MAF from a 1996 Chevy Impala SS.

Actual MAP: stock
Suggestion: Leave it alone. When you upgrade to a AlkyControl Methanol Injection Kit you can upgrade to the 3 Bar in the kit.

Actual fuel pump: Kirban Performance: HIGH-PERFORMANCE IN-TANK REPLACEMENT FUEL PUMP KIT #1540:
Suggestion: I am tired of Strong pumps burning stock sending unit wiring. I am not a fan of Racetronix fuel pumps but the sending units are very nice. Make sure you have a fuel pump hot wire kit installed and a fuel pressure gauge at the end of the rail.

Actual internals of the engine: unknown

Suggestion: Do you see stock GM headbolts? If not it may have been tampered with. You can remove the upper plenum( have a RJC Power Plate to put on while you're at it) and look down the intake runner. See if you spot the factory casting on the heads or if some porting had been done. This is important when ordering a Chip.
Locate a shop that can test your valve springs too. They may be original and worn out.
If you have a leaky front cover and or rear main seal you may want to get those fixed and replace the timing set while you are in there.

If you still want to keep the car at this point and don't mind the "adjustments" it will make to your available balance... Welcome and Enjoy your Turbo Buick!
 

GNPL

Member
Thank you Richard

You will need a way to measure the fuel pressure. A gauge and hose setup of some kind to set base fuel pressure and see it as the boost comes and make sure the fuel pressure rises with the boost. A new fuel filter and possibly new fuel pump and sock depending on the fuel pressure testing.
I have gas pressure gauge under the hood - directly in the fuel rail. All fuel lines are new, new sending unit with the sock, new filter, new fuel pump from Kirban #1540. Tank was reconditioned with POR15 fuel tank repair kit so it is clean inside. But I think I get the point - need to see whats going on with the fuel pressure under load / WOT - so at the dyno, or I need to see the gauge while driving. Thanks for the tip.
 

GNPL

Member
Jasjamz,
Thank you for detailed answers. I appreciate your help. No question I am going to keep the GN with me, so I will consider seriously your advices.
Seems need to make a budget now :-D.
Thanks again.
 

Pronto

Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
Yes, definitely go for a modern MAF with a Translator. I would go with 60lb injectors and a matching Turbo Tweak chip. The stock wiring for the TB fuel pump is weak. If you can swing it, the full Racetronix system from hotwire to hanger/pump setup is really nice. It's got thicker wire to handle the higher amps the bigger pumps draw. Something else to consider is a Powerlogger. It will allow you to log your ecm information. It's very helpful to diagnosing issues, tuning and monitoring the health of your systems. Your mods plus the ones recommended should make your car pretty quick. Good luck.
 

TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
Thank you Richard


I have gas pressure gauge under the hood - directly in the fuel rail. All fuel lines are new, new sending unit with the sock, new filter, new fuel pump from Kirban #1540. Tank was reconditioned with POR15 fuel tank repair kit so it is clean inside. But I think I get the point - need to see whats going on with the fuel pressure under load / WOT - so at the dyno, or I need to see the gauge while driving. Thanks for the tip.


You could get an electric FP gauge and tie it to the under hood mechanical FP gauge line like I did. Then you can monitor FP inside the car as you go into boost without a gauge sticking out of the hood, begging to be vandalized.
 

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