What turbo should I get?

XracerX

First Methanol Kits
Hi Chuck ;)

I agree a new Intercooler is best.
Getting the neck done on the stocker would be more than half way to the price of a new one when its all said and done. $275+tax+shipping+ shipping the core back. 25 years ago putting a duttweiler neck on was cheap. Not so now.
That's why I didn't include it in the what you need now/first list.

A 12" D5 re-stalled to 2800-3000 works just fine.
 

V6sleeper

Well-Known Member
Yeah I’ve known the guy for many years it does come up on google so I don’t know what’s up with that but maybe the name or something is slightly different. He’s really good and has Owned 3/4 of these, he knows his way around a tranny and I’ve known him forever. Also I do have a shift kit in it but the disks in the transmission are shot, the car sat for over 15-20 years so once I got it pushing the power it should she just giving up.
Call Dave Husek, i wouldnt mess around with any other 2004r trans+converter guy no offence, its a simple 6 hr drive from you, save a ton in shipping, i'll even meet you at his shop and go over the whole combo, hes 20 min away from me. ;)
 

1986 Buick GX1

GX1 #001 [The One and Only]
Also yes I did have that hooked up lol I’m gonna disconnect that, I’m gonna order the kit and wash out my intercooler if that’s possible.

Porting the I/C inlet neck may be an option for now, as long as you have it out for cleaning.
The inlet neck is about 1/4” wall thickness and can be ported to 1/8” wall thickness opening it up quite a bit.
Tapering the opening to a knife edge (think funnel) would help to.

One problem with using a 30+ y/o cooler assy is the efficiency has probably taken a hit... Maybe a significant hit. Heat cycles, vibration, environment, all affect the integrity of the fin to tube connection. Accumulated dirt inside doesn't help.
AIRC, when new, the units were only about 58% efficient.
I'm wondering if a vertical flow unit would be more efficient.
Once an old unit is "renovated", cut, welded, and properly cleaned, just how much is invested vs a new core? Don't know.
Back under my rock. 😉

I’m sure a ported stock 2” neck is not as good as a 2.5” neck (Dutt neck, Nick neck) but may be worthwhile??
 

V6sleeper

Well-Known Member
Dutt necks are unavailable
nick neck.jpg
Heres the Arizona Gn neck, Dutt neck, and stock
 
Yeah I’ll look into gettting a new neck put on but I’m in Buffalo area so shipping out there would be a lot, also how do I do it their website isn’t the best and the link to the info page don’t work. Do I send mine out or do they send me one and I send them mine in return?
 

XracerX

First Methanol Kits
I imagine they charge you for the new one and the core. then you get re-imbursed when they get your core.


That's $275 + tax+ shipping to you + shipping yours there. it will be around $400.
OR
A new one with 23 rows is $784 total shipped to NY Intercoolers -Stock Location
1674575492783.png


I would not concentrate on that NECK right now. Its very minimal to what a 3" downpipe and test pipe can do. The exhaust is the bigger bang for the buck right now. The CAT is more restrictive than the IC neck. Downpipes
1674575165205.png

Then you can put an electric dump open/close on it if you want. Open to race; closed for street

There I said it again😃
Go back and re-read. your missing a lot of stuff that was posted.😲
 

Mr.Spool

Well-Known Member
I'm the last of Grumpy's Keep It Simple Stupid crew that drag the most from the least. Think I'm gonna sit on the side lines and watch from here on in like you do :cool:
Your not the last 😉
I have tried in this thread to kiss😉
Through out a nice 11 sec stock bolt on combo.
It went fast from not running anymore than 17psi to bigger turbos and intercoolers and down pipes and apparantly 22psi is max boost on methanol injection🙄
And dutt necks are needed for 400hp now😂
 

Chuck Leeper

Toxic old bastard
Staff member
My dyno tests:
3 pulls each. Open dump and closed dump.
ATR headers & exh system, dual muffs and dp. My dump.
Avg RWHP diff was +/- 5.
Boost was mid 20's, made close to 650 AIRC.
Anyway, enough to push a 3750# turd to 144 mph.
No, it was not a 109.... 😁
 

V6sleeper

Well-Known Member
Threads a bit off track, im just reading into a 17 year olds mind, no way hes gonna be satisfied with 17 psi with these cars, its not a forced induction big block where your at quadruple digits at 17, its a stock lc2 hovering around 300 so it comes down toooo...What does he really want to do with the car...:unsure: then the proper combo can be written
 
Ok with lots of consideration
Threads a bit off track, im just reading into a 17 year olds mind, no way hes gonna be satisfied with 17 psi with these cars, its not a forced induction big block where your at quadruple digits at 17, its a stock lc2 hovering around 300 so it comes down toooo...What does he really want to do with the car...:unsure: then the proper combo can be written
with lots of consideration I will probably be around the 19-21 psi range. What do I need to do to achieve the 400hp mark, do I need to do any serious mods to the motor or timing chain to support this power. Also what valve springs should I go with 980-12s or something else. I did have a list in a earlier post of mods I have and plan on doing. I will re post my list after this post. Thanks to everyone for their ideas and help. I really appreciate it.
 
1.) scamaster G first thing I bought lol
2.) boost gauge not a cheap crap one ether
3.) 3 inch Intake.
4.) lt1 maf with translator
5.) all new boots, for turbo and intake/ inter cooler
6.) vacuum breaks not done my me
7.) transmission is going trough a full rebuild and being built for more power
Not currently in car but will be over next few weeks
8.) I have 42lbs injectors with matching turbo tweak chip
9. 255LPH DEATSCHWERKS fuel pump
10.) racetronics fuel pressure reg
11.) Hotwire kit.
12.) power plate
13.) comp 980-12 valve springs
 

V6sleeper

Well-Known Member
Ok with lots of consideration

with lots of consideration I will probably be around the 19-21 psi range. What do I need to do to achieve the 400hp mark, do I need to do any serious mods to the motor or timing chain to support this power. Also what valve springs should I go with 980-12s or something else. I did have a list in a earlier post of mods I have and plan on doing. I will re post my list after this post. Thanks to everyone for their ideas and help. I really appreciate it.
Boost and octane will achieve 400hp, if your stock turbo is finished i would do a Mfs 58mm, double roller timing chain,3" dp,test pipe, alky kit+chip,100lb valve springs, power logger and most importantly a converter spec'd to the combo
 

Pronto

Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
My opinion. You've been working on this for 2 years. I would dial back your mod creep. I would go with Precision 5858 keep at 17psi and get the trans rebuilt and a good converter. Don't forget to get a trans cooler and flush the radiator trans cooler. Next a timing set and upgraded valve springs. Do the spring cleaning and make sure every system is functioning properly. From there you would be ready to upgrade for high boost and lots more hp. Powerlogger, 60s, alky, tt chip, upgraded slic, downpipe, cat delete, free flow exhaust and street drag radials. You can then monitor the engine as you slowly raise the boost and learn about your car. I've seen the 5858 go 11s so it's got plenty for you and it's a blast on the street. There are many ways to make more power than what you have now. You must first make sure the systems are right or no matter your hp goal you will hurt the engine.
 
Boost and octane will achieve 400hp, if your stock turbo is finished i would do a Mfs 58mm, double roller timing chain,3" dp,test pipe, alky kit+chip,100lb valve springs, power logger and most importantly a converter spec'd to the combo
How important for a timing chain, like my car is 32k miles is it really important. Im just not sure? Thanks
 
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