What turbo should I get?

Contact RUQWKNF here on the board for turbo selection. Patrick works for Precision and has forgotten more about turbos than anyone will remember. He advised me when the Gen 1 CEA's were released.
 
I went back and reread your first post and we need to pump the brakes on any upgrades until we know a few things . First off do you have a scanmaster ? What chip is in the car ? Post up any known mods in your signature , this will help us help you and if you're using a phone to view this forum you have to turn it sideways to see the signatures of people posting .
With a goal of 18-19 psi the stock turbo is fine , there are ways to bring up the boost on stock set ups . I had mine up to 20psi in 1986 with minor mods & octane . Money should be spent first on , #1 chip burned for your combo , #2 scanmaster to help see the health of the motor and help diagnose any problems . A simple cracked hose causing a vacuum leak will make the car run poorly but will show up in scanmaster readings . #3 the transmission is the weak link in the drive train when turning up the power and very few know how to rebuild one properly to handle power . I consider David Husek the best out there , but a performance rebuild is not cheap and you get what you pay for .
Just remember these are not modern turbocharged Honda's or STI's where a turbo and a tune flashed the ECU and it game on , my son's had them !!
We are here to help !!
Sam
 
^^^Dynoman is right we are all jumping the gate a little bit, post your full combo or post pics if you dont know what anything is
 
It wasn't about air flow it was about the difference between journal /and ball bearing,for a street application. And oil flow and oil cooling.
The only reference made about airflow was pertaining to a boost leak and increasing shaft speed due to running more boost to compensate for said leak
The difference between bb and journal is evident to those that log oil pressures spool time and airflow.
Oil pressure hasn't been an issue with any of the turbos I've seen even regardless of journal or bb.
The thrust loads on bb are much higher than journal as well.
Which means they can be pushed much harder.
Just rotating them by hand there is a massive difference.
They can spin for minutes after the car is shut off a testament to how freely they spin.
 
I thought he did
well he kinda did but i would like to know what fuel pump, is there a chip,scanmaster what converter is in there,is he sure about 42# injectors, does he have a boost gauge not the stock crap, he may be going off false information with the stock stuff , his profile says 19 years old he might not be aware of whats going on with the car.
 
Good call Scoob. I have Stan's table bookmarked as well as this one below...might be just a re-hash of Stan's table...
link =>
In 2019, at RC's open house, I spent most of my time at Richard's flow bench testing, cleaning, flowing injectors for anyone who asked. A set of green band 009's were dropped off for testing. seeing the little plastic green band around the top of the injector and seeing 009 as a partial part #, I figured they were 42pph. I left Richard's stock Bosch calibration injector in the rail setup, only swapping out injector sets to be tested.

These 009's were flowing the same as stockers. I needed the magnifier app on Turbo Bob's phone to help me see that these 009's I was working with were 5207009 (30pph) and not 5208009 42pph.

The proverbial "green stripe" stockers had that green stripe painted around the middle of the injector. I didn't recall that the later produced Lucas green stripe stockers went from that painted band around the middle to the little plastic green band attached around the top like the 42pph ones.

So yeah, as V6Sleeper said, let's double check what model # injectors he actually has and what chip in currently in the ECM.
 
Good call Scoob. I have Stan's table bookmarked as well as this one below...might be just a re-hash of Stan's table...
link =>
In 2019, at RC's open house, I spent most of my time at Richard's flow bench testing, cleaning, flowing injectors for anyone who asked. A set of green band 009's were dropped off for testing. seeing the little plastic green band around the top of the injector and seeing 009 as a partial part #, I figured they were 42pph. I left Richard's stock Bosch calibration injector in the rail setup, only swapping out injector sets to be tested.

These 009's were flowing the same as stockers. I needed the magnifier app on Turbo Bob's phone to help me see that these 009's I was working with were 5207009 (30pph) and not 5208009 42pph.

The proverbial "green stripe" stockers had that green stripe painted around the middle of the injector. I didn't recall that the later produced Lucas green stripe stockers went from that painted band around the middle to the little plastic green band attached around the top like the 42pph ones.

So yeah, as V6Sleeper said, let's double check what model # injectors he actually has and what chip in currently in the ECM
I do remember that i was at RC's that day also, i vaguely remember an issue with the dyno when Bob and Eric were tuning the burgundy Turbo T.
 
Ok cause of popular demand I will post my full mod list
1.) scamaster G first thing I bought lol
2.) boost gauge not a cheap crap one ether
3.) 3 inch Intake.
4.) lt1 maf with translator
5.) all new boots, for turbo and intake/ inter cooler
6.) vacuum breaks not done my me
7.) transmission is going trough a full rebuild and being built for more power
Not currently in car but will be over next few weeks
8.) I have 42lbs injectors with matching turbo tweak chip
9. 255LPH DEATSCHWERKS fuel pump
10.) racetronics fuel pressure reg
11.) Hotwire kit.
12.) power plate
13.) comp 980-12 valve springs
This is all I currently remember, if I remember something else I will update
Thanks everyone for the help it means the world
 
I'd go with 981's as the 980's will soften up after a handful of WOT blasts and you're back to square one. What makes you think your turbo is fukd.
 
I'd go with 981's as the 980's will soften up after a handful of WOT blasts and you're back to square one. What makes you think your turbo is fukd.
When I get on it hard and let off a little smoke comes out the tail pipe, also their is a bit of oil on the intake side
 
Any smoke at idle...as that's when vacuum is highest and will draw oil down worn valve guides into the cylinders.
 
Turbo must have ZERO in and out play and the blades can't hit the inside housing.
 
Turbo must have ZERO in and out play and the blades can't hit the inside housing.
Yes I knew that, 100% when I got the car it Barley ran and most of its running issues was because a clogged converter. But the turbo wasn’t really spinning 100% until I got the converter sorted out. So I had oil in the intake but the dp was dry so I’ll pull it off this weekend and take a look. But I’m probably gonna get a newer turbo anyways, do you think a alky kit is worth it to make more power? I’d like my car to be around 400hp ish.
 
Yes I knew that, 100% when I got the car it Barley ran and most of its running issues was because a clogged converter. But the turbo wasn’t really spinning 100% until I got the converter sorted out. So I had oil in the intake but the dp was dry so I’ll pull it off this weekend and take a look. But I’m probably gonna get a newer turbo anyways, do you think a alky kit is worth it to make more power? I’d like my car to be around 400hp ish.
Your not getting that type of power on 17psi that’s for sure.You need octane or ALKY to turn the boost up to make real power .If you choose to leave the boost at that level leave the stock turbo on the car with 93 octane it will run the best at that level.
 
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