What turbo should I get?

Ok thanks everyone for the wonderful reply’s. It really means a lot.
So what I have got from this is to stick with a journal bearing and close to stock.
So I may have miss worded my first post a bit, but what I probably should say is I have reason to believe my turbo is going in my car and to get a stock one, you would be at similar prices to aftermarket ones. I had my eye set on a pet 5831. But with the ball bearing options should I go a different route?
Also any other ideas are welcome thanks for the help😃
 
Hello Everyone,
This is my first post to the Grand national community. I have purchased a 1987 grand national over 2 years ago and I have been restoring it and building it. She has 32k original miles and is in need of some love. I have been tossing the idea of getting a new turbo for a wile and I think mine is on its last legs. What should I get. I’m not really interested in running more that 17/18 psi of boost. I would like to not risk the integerty of the motor ether.
I do have most supporting mods
42lbs injectiors
Fuel system mods
Hotwire kit
Power plate
Lt1 Maf
Going to put in comp cams 980-12 valve springs
So here is the cheatsheat for you
If you cannot run 11s on a stock turbo dont think an upgrade is really an upgrade.
And a trans is in order as well as a few other things that can make that happen.
You will speed and et limited on 17psi regardless of turbo.
A stock turbo can and will produce 30psi in good air and run well into the 11s on a stock intercooler and a stock 12 inch converter,basically stockish type stuff.
 
Not at 17psi, they will react the same, things change when they are pushed past 23 psi.
The ta49 would be the biggest id go with the stock converter otherwise great lag comes in.
I've had cars lose et off putting a 49 on after a stock turbo off the stock converter until boost was raised past where the stock turbo would run out😉
 
No matter the application a journal bearing turbo cannot lite up as fast as single,dual,or triple bb turbo.
This evident if you footbrake the car or do roll racing.
The question is what is truly needed to make horsepower that is required.
In today's turbo technology bigger turbos can spool better than ever but the motor really needs to be able flow and handle it.
And the stock motor has its limitations.
 
That's fuckin stupid as shit.
The faster your turbo spools the faster you move air it's that simple.
This guy is a retard.
It wasn't about air flow it was about the difference between journal /and ball bearing,for a street application. And oil flow and oil cooling.
The only reference made about airflow was pertaining to a boost leak and increasing shaft speed due to running more boost to compensate for said leak
 
Mr Spool is correct. The BB version will light up much quicker than the JB. Having said that, the BB version is 600 bucks more. That savings could go a long way towards a GOOD torque convertor...which will make a world of difference even for a cruiser or daily driver.
 
Mr Spool is correct. The BB version will light up much quicker than the JB. Having said that, the BB version is 600 bucks more. That savings could go a long way towards a GOOD torque convertor...which will make a world of difference even for a cruiser or daily driver.
Ok so what I'm hearing is go to a
10" Inch PTC Custom GN1 Exclusive Converter
Then run something like a pte 5831, I would like to go ball bearing but I just don’t know about the reliably and quality of something like a cheetah stage 1
 
Ok so what I'm hearing is go to a
10" Inch PTC Custom GN1 Exclusive Converter
Then run something like a pte 5831, I would like to go ball bearing but I just don’t know about the reliably and quality of something like a cheetah stage 1
I ran the Precision JB 6262 and put 4 million passes on it. I'll leave it at that. If you wanna run a GOOD lock up convertor contact David Husek. I have real world numbers for his 3021 convertor from a local with a stock block with Daves convertor.
 
Go back to reply #18. I tell how to get a JB to spin up quicker. I have a vid to back my mouth up if you like.
 
Go back to reply #18. I tell how to get a JB to spin up quicker. I have a vid to back my mouth up if you like.
Yeah I’d love to see the video too,
I’m going to building a fast cruiser, nothing insane but nice to drive. So that’s why I don’t think a full lock up converter would be ideal. I would like to run a 6262 bb but I think that might be a little too much for the motor? But I don’t ever incision my boost numbers going over 18:19 psi
 
Yeah I’d love to see the video too,
I’m going to building a fast cruiser, nothing insane but nice to drive. So that’s why I don’t think a full lock up converter would be ideal. I would like to run a 6262 bb but I think that might be a little too much for the motor? But I don’t ever incision my boost numbers going over 18:19 psi
On a stock set of heads you won't gain shit with a larger turbo. Husek also sells a NL convertor...or you can go with a PTC spec'd by Dusty Bradford or Bison in CT.
 
This is the Gen1 Precision JB 6262 matched to an AC 16930 convertor...rest of the build is in my sig. Boost is 23 pounds. With Erics 5.7 chip on the default settings, you could get out and run faster. Note I stage last and only spool for as long as the lights to drop...a couple seconds. All you have to do is drop the low gear 02's into the 770's and increase low gear timing. Erics 5.7 chips are notoriously rich in low gear fuel. I routinely see low gear fueling on default from 820-850 on the PL files I look at. Oh...and that's my reaction time on the board at the end. I don't take prisoners. The car would run 7 flat at 100 all day long on a pedestrian 1.68 launch as is in the vid. Again....you need a good torque convertor.

 
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