What lifter for flat tappet cam?

Scoob, I have a bunch of cam catalogue, what brand are the 212 and 218 cams?
TIMINATOR
 
Scoob, I have a bunch of cam catalogue, what brand are the 212 and 218 cams?
TIMINATOR
If you have the time, check Comp Cams for lift for those two cams. I ran the 212/212 with stock rockers with heavy valve springs with zero issues. Keep in mind, it only saw 6 grand non stop, so I got away with it. Just curious if the lift is the same on the 218/218. You can prolly see where I'm going with this.
 
Whatever brand of lifter you go with: Use Redline assembly lube, it paints on with a brush and actually stays on the surface for when its needed.
 
I prefer ARP moly lube on the cam, lifter face and sides if the engine may not be started for a while, it stays there, not runs off. Also, check for lifter binding, however slight, as the lifter must freely rotate in the bore to promote oiling and distributation of wear.
TIMINATOR
 
I prefer ARP moly lube on the cam, lifter face and sides if the engine may not be started for a while, it stays there, not runs off. Also, check for lifter binding, however slight, as the lifter must freely rotate in the bore to promote oiling and distributation of wear.
TIMINATOR
I use the Goodsen lifter bore burnishing tool. Works like a charm.
Next up would be running a Lifter Tru bore operation and sleeves.
I go with the suggestion that for 10 rotations of the crank, the lifters should rotate one.
 
I have the Goodson tools for the 3 common lifter sizes, problem is all of them prematurely wore, so the bores may still require a slight bit of a hone after using them for a while. Cast iron is quite abrasive. I made a lifter handle to test each lifter bore. It fits all 3 sizes of lifters since they use a common plunger size. A normal guy doing his own engines probably wouldn't wear one out, but it is still a good idea to check a new lifter in each bore and hone if required. I have used a wheel cylinder hone for lifter bores too, but they are hard to find. A ball hone might be better than nothing, but I would reverse the rotation every few strokes. (Insert your own joke here.)
TIMINATOR
 
Big Block chevies and ford's both had lifter bore alignment issues in the 1980s. The bores were leaning to the front or back, I forget. So one side of the engines lifters didn't rotate and flattened those lobes on that side of the engine. Engle and Comp ground cams with more taper if ordered that way to alleviate the problem. If we get a block in with lobe issues on one side only, we scrap it or put a roller in it.
TIMINATOR
 
A normal guy doing his own engines probably wouldn't wear one out,
Ya, I'm just a "normal guy", assembling my own engines to check the q of the shop's work.
I also use a grooving tool to allow oil to get to the flat tappet lifter/cam contact surfaces.
 
That's a good idea too! I have seen guys do the entire lifter bore with a groove. Thats a bad idea! I used to groove from the oil galley down with a very fine ball end on a dremel tool, and for the newbies, remember to broach or polish any burrs after doing the groove deal. Make sure those lifters freely rotate!
TIMINATOR
 
I use the Goodsen lifter bore burnishing tool. Works like a charm.
Next up would be running a Lifter Tru bore operation and sleeves.
I go with the suggestion that for 10 rotations of the crank, the lifters should rotate one.
Goodson Lifter bore burnishing tool saved my bacon on my rebuild! 👍👍
 
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