What front Frame brace to buy

Gknational

Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2023
What front frame brace should I get for I’m grand national it’s a 87 so intercooled. I’ve looked online and I’m only more confused.
Also what other braces should I get?
 
What style Intercooler does your car have?

OEM/original position, or front mount (ahead of radiator)?

I like the idea behind the one piece units, but they may not fit with a front mount.
 
All that you can get LOL!!!

I’m using the UMI shock tower brace in the rear, “X-braces behind the seat(there are options as well to this), I have the Detroit Speed braces that connect the front crossmember to the frame(UMI claims their set-up won’t work with a stock IC), & braces from the header to the fender.

There’s also a bumper brace, boxing in the “C” channels, etc. No amount of bracing can hurt. Plus replacing the frame bushings & adding the #5 GNX bushing helps as well.
 
How involved is ch
All that you can get LOL!!!

I’m using the UMI shock tower brace in the rear, “X-braces behind the seat(there are options as well to this), I have the Detroit Speed braces that connect the front crossmember to the frame(UMI claims their set-up won’t work with a stock IC), & braces from the header to the fender.

There’s also a bumper brace, boxing in the “C” channels, etc. No amount of bracing can hurt. Plus replacing the frame bushings & adding the #5 GNX bushing helps as well.
how involved is changing the bushings, I’ve seen it done but only on frame off applications.
 
How involved is ch

how involved is changing the bushings, I’ve seen it done but only on frame off applications.
Not complicated, but can be involved if the car has seen rust(bolts will snap or the welded nuts will) leaving you with a situation.

Soak them in Kroil repeatedly & go slow. Involves removing hardware, lifting the body a bit, replacing bushings, & installing hardware.

 
Not complicated, but can be involved if the car has seen rust(bolts will snap or the welded nuts will) leaving you with a situation.

Soak them in Kroil repeatedly & go slow. Involves removing hardware, lifting the body a bit, replacing bushings, & installing hardware.

Ok thanks should I go for the gnx style bushings?
 
They’re not a style. They go in the #5 position. Called the GNX bushing because for the most part Regals(GN’s included) didn’t get that bushing but the GNX’ did. No hardware just sammiched between body & frame.
 
I just replaced all the body bushings (including adding the GNX which is by far the easiest). Some of the issue's I encountered were as follows:
1. Bolts spun in cage nuts/broken bolt - happened 7 times - requires you to go in from interior of the car, cut out a section of the body in the floor, remove the old "Z" nut, and replace with a new one. I welded in a new z nut as I didn't want to weld in the whole cage nut assembly. Good news hear is that everything eventually is covered by a carpet, so your sins will be hidden.
2. Frame mount where bushing sits is rusted away - Occurred 3 times - while body is up in the air, weld in new "donuts" which can be purchased from Gbdoy/Mike's Montes (Mike Monte's were a bit more robust of an option). You can do the welding with the car lifted about 6 inches off the body on either side. The higher the body the more access you have to put in a good weld
3. Body panel rusted around bushing - required a small patch panel to be welded in to underside of body to provide required support

If NONE of these problems occur, and you are able to break all the bolts free, can easily be done in a few hours in a home garage. Because of all the nightmares I encountered, I took my time, and did it over the span of a few weeks. While I was at it I also replaced the driver side floor pan. It's actually quite amazing how much of a difference it made. Before I thought my car had lowering springs, now I realize the stance was due to the body mounts being either pushed through the floor, the frame, or just completely deteriorated...After nearly 40 years, if the bushings haven't been replaced once, and you live in the North East like I do, expect some of the challenges I had. Fortunately parts are available (z nuts, bushing, bolts, frame donuts) to help you out.

I also used this as a rationale to buy my own mig welder and learn a new skill so it can be a good project if you take your time...or you could get lucky and everything un bolts with ease :). All in I think this process probably cost me about $600 when factoring in the floor panel, the bushings, the primer/paint for the floor. I also added a new carpet and sound deadening which pushed the total job to $1000...but if all you do is replace the bushings, its just the cost of the bushings. I have to assume all this would have probably cost me 3-4K had I paid someone to do it.
 
Drill a hole in the washers that are under the bushings. Stick your PB Blaster straw In the hole and spray the crap out of the threads. Wait 30 mins. Repeat.

Doing this I only broke one #6 bolt.
68AE8E9B-32BC-4B26-B3F5-F9ADE1A74D06.jpeg
 
My car is practically rust free came from Florida and has 32k on the clock? Can I check the bushings just by getting under the car and looking at them?
 
Unless they were recently replaced, I'd assume they are destroyed. Rubber degrades regardless of use.
 
Drill a hole in the washers that are under the bushings. Stick your PB Blaster straw In the hole and spray the crap out of the threads. Wait 30 mins. Repeat.

Doing this I only broke one #6 bolt.
View attachment 392709
I wish I would have thought of that...would have saved a few i'm sure. However some of my bolts were so far gone that I'm pretty sure touching them would have cracked them.
 
How involved is ch

how involved is changing the bushings, I’ve seen it done but only on frame off applications.
If your car is in good shape and they're not rusted, it's pretty easy. You loosen them all, then completely remove the bolts from one side of the car, use a jack and a big piece of wood to raise the body on that side, swap the bushings, drop it down, reinstall the bolts loosely, repeat on the other side, then torque them all. I did mine in about an hour. But my car has seen very little rain and no salt. Nothing's rusty.

But if they're rusty, things can spiral badly quickly.
 
If your car is in good shape and they're not rusted, it's pretty easy. You loosen them all, then completely remove the bolts from one side of the car, use a jack and a big piece of wood to raise the body on that side, swap the bushings, drop it down, reinstall the bolts loosely, repeat on the other side, then torque them all. I did mine in about an hour. But my car has seen very little rain and no salt. Nothing's rusty.

But if they're rusty, things can spiral badly quickly.
Ok mine has like no rust at all nothing
 
Shouldn't be to bad then, just use a lot of penetrating oil in the days leading up to the effort.
 
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