What did you do to your GN today?

turbo39151

anycoloraslongasitsblack
Successfully removed 7 of 10 body bolts from my northeast car ... pb blaster still soaking on the others.

Slow going..

There's a few different rust removers out there that you could try as well (I have some stuff I purchased years ago called best rust remover- tried to find a link for you but can't seem to located it) Stuff was totally safe for skin, no fumes, organic and safe to dump on the ground. I would just leave stuff dipped in it and maybe give a light scrub now and again and it really worked!

Recently to break some bolts loose, I tried the WD40 Specialist Rust Release Penetrant- It worked pretty good. Less stinky than PB Blaster. However, I think the rust removers might be a better way to go. You don't want one of those body bolts to break.

Just a couple of ideas...
 

Eddie Strength

Active Member
Putting the final touches on my recent garage re-make project that I started in the summer.
Still have to get rid of some clutter & install another hanging shelf, tire rack on the wall and some trim work, but she's tucked in & nice N warm for the cold winter ahead!
Lookin GOOD!;)
 

CzyKats44

Dis-Member
There's a few different rust removers out there that you could try as well (I have some stuff I purchased years ago called best rust remover- tried to find a link for you but can't seem to located it) Stuff was totally safe for skin, no fumes, organic and safe to dump on the ground. I would just leave stuff dipped in it and maybe give a light scrub now and again and it really worked!

Recently to break some bolts loose, I tried the WD40 Specialist Rust Release Penetrant- It worked pretty good. Less stinky than PB Blaster. However, I think the rust removers might be a better way to go. You don't want one of those body bolts to break.

Just a couple of ideas...

Thanks for the input, they are coming out with minimal strife with just soaking and tappping. I'm not interested in breaking one so I'm quite content being patient.

I'll try some of those products on the control arm and bolts. At least I can cut that shit off.
 

XLR8ONU

Member
60mm Turbo - Done
Converter upgrade - Done
Billet drum - Done
C & C Ported Aluminum Heads - Done
Port matched Intake - Done
Spool Fool 1 Piece rear fillers - Done
All new gauges ( Boost, Water temp, Oil pressure)

Waiting on waste gate and crossover pipe to be here tomorrow!

Bear brake upgrade - coming soon (Next week or so)


Almost time to go play!!!!
 
Installed an "in-dash" volt meter and some Spoolfool bumper fillers.

Claude. :)

Here (top right corner):
DSCN4793.JPG
 
Last edited:

69RSCLONE

Active Member
Successfully removed 7 of 10 body bolts from my northeast car ... pb blaster still soaking on the others.

Slow going..
I hear you on that. In the rust belt too. 3 of mine were scary. But I'm sure it will be worth the effort in the spring when it goes back on the road. I also boxed the frame, put in a few braces and new bushings and fuel /brake lines. Had to repair 3 mount locations on the frame also.
 

Attachments

  • 1450578861631.jpg
    1450578861631.jpg
    69.5 KB · Views: 147
  • 1450578953953.jpg
    1450578953953.jpg
    67 KB · Views: 148

69RSCLONE

Active Member
That is some nice looking frame work, love the bracing out back. Ps my gn is faster in reverse than that mustang:)
My wife bought the Mustang after I went to the track with the GN and made her take her 2014 Malibu down the 1/4. She was embarrassed that the Malibu did 16.4 at 89mph. She thought that the Mustang would be as fast as the GN because it also had a 3.8. In the video I have of it going down the track you can hear my 8 year old son saying "why is mommy going so slow?"
 

Gene Van Horn

Active Member
Funny kid. What i did today was take the car out, washed it, then proceeded to beat the snot out of it for couple hours:). Nice being able to take out car in december.
 

scojack_2001

Livin' Like A Refugee
I hear you on that. In the rust belt too. 3 of mine were scary. But I'm sure it will be worth the effort in the spring when it goes back on the road. I also boxed the frame, put in a few braces and new bushings and fuel /brake lines. Had to repair 3 mount locations on the frame also.

Curious to know what brake lines you used? Did you buy a kit? I know Right Stuff Detailing makes a SS brake line, but not sure if that's a full set or not.

Planning on having mine done when I send my GN to the body shop to get the bushings done. I don't have the time or experience to do it, so I'm gonna sit this one out. Gonna do a fuel vapor line too. Any info you can give is greatly appreciated.
 

69RSCLONE

Active Member
I bent up everything with poly armor coated line. I wanted stainless, but couldn't find any local and didn't want to spend $400 to get it mail-order. I boxed the frame so I would have to re-bend the pre-bent kits. Plus I put in a line lock and up sized the return line to 5/16. It was a better choice to make my own. I also have the hydraulic flare tool for the fuel lines so no piecing together, all one.
 

whitehot1

Well-Known Member
Just finished my gauges and wiring about 20 minutes ago. I've been slacking because i simply hate doing wiring. Along with not feeling good sometimes didn't help,so it would be 4 days or more in between me working at it. But tonight was probably going to be my last chance of getting it done before the real cold weather starts happening, it was in the 50's tonight from 11 pm and going to stay that temp until 5 am. Perfect temp for me to finish up. Hooked up the battery and started the engine to test the gauges and lights,they all worked great.

I made a small bracket for the scanmaster to sit on 4'' above the gauges i have listed below.

The AEM wide band gauge,0-100 psi fuel pressure gauge,35 psi boost gauge sitting above the heater control panel.

Where the radio used to be i have water temp gauge,volt gauge,oil pressure gauge.

I only drive the car around town for short periods and i like to hear the engine and pay attention to what it is doing so the radio delete was no big deal to me.
 

whitehot1

Well-Known Member
Got any pics, im thinking about some new gauges and maybe reconfiguring,thanks Gene

Sorry but no i don't have pics,that is something i never got into doing. Heck i have enough trouble using my remote control for the tv, lol

Yeah thats what got me started on moving the gauges around. I added the fuel pressure,volt gauges which i didn't have before,and a new boost gauge. Even though it was a bit of a pain to do. I'm sure it will have been worth it when i go out for the first drive with them installed where they are now.

If i was going to do it again i would use an electric water temp gauge for ease of installation over the mechanical one.

There are / is a thread that i seen on here with different gauges and configurations of them installed. I will see if i can find it and post.

Good luck with the gauges installation.
 

Eddie Strength

Active Member
Got my new(old) Referbed Stereo and a mint Tri-Shield!

Love them!
 

Attachments

  • 2015-12-27 1.jpg
    2015-12-27 1.jpg
    4.6 MB · Views: 154
  • 2015-12-27 2.jpg
    2015-12-27 2.jpg
    3.8 MB · Views: 143
  • 2015-12-27 3.jpg
    2015-12-27 3.jpg
    3 MB · Views: 141
  • 2015-12-27 4.jpg
    2015-12-27 4.jpg
    5.8 MB · Views: 149

Tori

Active Member
Installed my Kirbans LOW FUEL warning light kit today.... I've been dreading this and putting it off thinking it was going to be a PIA. Boy was i wrong. I think i was done in less than 20 minutes. Literally took no time at all. Two sockets 7mm and 15mm, and you're done.
photo(9).JPG
 

Gene Van Horn

Active Member
I also took my dash apart, thats easy. Im trying to get my tach and boost gauge out to send to Caspers, i cant see crap up there, cant even get my fat hand in there either, oh well ordered the light kit to make the dash lights brighter from kirbans so maybe wont be a total waste of time. Any tips or tricks to get that tach unplugged would be appreciated, thanks Gene.
 

jpwalt1987

Devils in Baggy Pants
Today I repaired the underhood light by replacing the broken wires and resoldering the terminals. Installed the HD rocker shafts and braces, reinstalled the wiring for the factory MAF sensor, tapped out the Wideband sensor bung, installed the heater hoses and a bunch of vacuum lines. Getting the car ready to sell by putting it back stock.
 

Attachments

  • 1453083057313.jpg
    1453083057313.jpg
    80.3 KB · Views: 131
  • 1453083066684.jpg
    1453083066684.jpg
    89.4 KB · Views: 121
Top