What combo for my goals??

Azrial89

Member
Joined
May 8, 2011
I know there are a billion of these threads out there, but I would really like to get a "customized" combo for my Buick. The car is stock and my goals are a street car that will only see the track a few times in its life, but I would love to run low 11's to high 10's. Currently the car is up on jack stands getting new control arms and QA1 adjustable coil overs in the front end, because I got them brand new for a sweet deal. I know first off I'm going to need a scan tool, Hotwire fuel pump. I just got a new stock cam put in after the stocker wiped a lobe. Also the stock turbo has shaft play and is burning a bunch of oil and needs to be replaced ASAP. But now I want to know what things I have to throw money at to achieve my goals, thanks in advance. The wealth I knowledge on this site never stops amazing me. I'm brand new to all this.
 
I can't help you cause i'm not a super mechanic and I'm pretty new to this myself. But after a few mods. Everyone is gonna tell you to get an Alky kit. Its early in the morning check in again in the afternoon
 
It's a pretty tough, expensive trick to go from mid to high 14's... likely what your current car runs to "high 10's" if you want to do it more than a couple times.

A much more realistic goal is "High 11's", because reliable "High Tens" is a $3-5,000 deal when starting with a stock car that doesn't even have a Hot wire, yet... as you'll need Trans mods, Internal Motor mods, a Torque converter, rear axles and lots of other parts that are going to break at "mid 11's".

Yes, people have bolted stuff on a stock car and then at a -200 Ft MSL DA track run a high 10, but that isn't a realistic expectation.

That isn't something you can take to the track every week and not expect to break $1500 worth of parts each run. It's basically a grenade with the pin pulled.
 
It's a pretty tough, expensive trick to go from mid to high 14's... likely what your current car runs to "high 10's" if you want to do it more than a couple times.

A much more realistic goal is "High 11's", because reliable "High Tens" is a $3-5,000 deal when starting with a stock car that doesn't even have a Hot wire, yet... as you'll need Trans mods, Internal Motor mods, a Torque converter, rear axles and lots of other parts that are going to break at "mid 11's".

Yes, people have bolted stuff on a stock car and then at a -200 Ft MSL DA track run a high 10, but that isn't a realistic expectation.

That isn't something you can take to the track every week and not expect to break $1500 worth of parts each run. It's basically a grenade with the pin pulled.
wait so your telling my i can have a high 10 car for 3-5K hell im in the mid 12's now. and have a hotwire fuel pump setup along with everything else in my sig. I thought it would cost that in machinest cost for the engine. I need someone to educate me on that.
 
wait so your telling my i can have a high 10 car for 3-5K hell im in the mid 12's now. and have a hotwire fuel pump setup along with everything else in my sig. I thought it would cost that in machinest cost for the engine. I need someone to educate me on that.


I should have clarified that... $3 to $5K in parts. If you are going to pay someone to put those parts on, it will be a lot more.

With your Sig, you should be at least mid to low 11's on race gas & sticky tires..

I went low 12's on BFG Drag radials with the stock turbo, injectors, intercooler, Trans and rear axle and untouched motor... If I worked on my 60 fts, I could have had a high 11... and my car ran 14.6's when I bought it (actually 16.5's, but the fuel pumps was bad)

For high tens, you'll want more injector, Ported heads, more converter, get rid of the flowmaster exhaust and a beefier bottom end on the block to keep the crank in the motor.
 
UNGN said:
I should have clarified that... $3 to $5K in parts. If you are going to pay someone to put those parts on, it will be a lot more.

With your Sig, you should be at least mid to low 11's on race gas & sticky tires..

I went low 12's on BFG Drag radials with the stock turbo, injectors, intercooler, Trans and rear axle and untouched motor... If I worked on my 60 fts, I could have had a high 11... and my car ran 14.6's when I bought it (actually 16.5's, but the fuel pumps was bad)

For high tens, you'll want more injector, Ported heads, more converter, get rid of the flowmaster exhaust and a beefier bottom end on the block to keep the crank in the motor.

Ok I'll admit it. I'm afraid.....I'm afraid that ill blow something up. With sticky tires the rear may go and with race gas the motor with 130k on it may blow....I'm man enough to say it. But low 11s is awfully tempting
 
Ok I'll admit it. I'm afraid.....I'm afraid that ill blow something up. With sticky tires the rear may go and with race gas the motor with 130k on it may blow....I'm man enough to say it. But low 11s is awfully tempting

With good clutches and a girdled cover, the rear is strong enough. Your C-clips will give up before the rear end. 130k miles is a lot but with good valve springs and timing chain, and with ZDDP so you don't wipe another lobe, you should be fine to run 25+psi with either alky or race gas and a good tune. That will get you well into the 11's and that's a fun street car unless you want to run drag radials all the time. I think the 42's may be limiting at that boost level without alky, so you may want to do an alky kit even if you do decide to also use race gas, but I'm sure someone else will chime in on this matter.
 
With good clutches and a girdled cover, the rear is strong enough. Your C-clips will give up before the rear end. 130k miles is a lot but with good valve springs and timing chain, and with ZDDP so you don't wipe another lobe, you should be fine to run 25+psi with either alky or race gas and a good tune. That will get you well into the 11's and that's a fun street car unless you want to run drag radials all the time. I think the 42's may be limiting at that boost level without alky, so you may want to do an alky kit even if you do decide to also use race gas, but I'm sure someone else will chime in on this matter.
i hate that im stealing all the attention from the author of this post. But i am planning on getting a alky system installed. But without one what do you think the highest octane i can run safely, without taking too much chance of blowing it up. i run my oil with a zinc addative
 
I just have a mint street car, When it was pretty much stock, Hot wired fuel pump, Front mount, 70 turbo '' To big for what I was running'', Alky kit and chip it run 11.20 at 119, We tore the motor down, Put a Eagle balanced crank, H-rods, JE pistons with Cam and griddle, Built tranny with PI 5 disk lockup, 83 injectors, A 66 BB turbo, Still working on the traction problem but it has run 10.40 at 133 at 20 pounds of boost,I would drive the car anyplace, It rides like a Caddy and gets about 23 mpg and is just pain pretty to look at, Easy to get in the low 11's gets a little harder to get in the low 10's to high 9's and drive it to and from the track
 
i hate that im stealing all the attention from the author of this post. But i am planning on getting a alky system installed. But without one what do you think the highest octane i can run safely, without taking too much chance of blowing it up. i run my oil with a zinc addative

Octane is what prevents stuff from blowing up. If you could afford to drive around with a tank of leaded 118, you would be the baddest mofo on the streets @ 25 psi of boost and have less of a chance of hurting the motor that if you ran straight 93 @ 18 psi of boost.
 
I just have a mint street car, When it was pretty much stock, Hot wired fuel pump, Front mount, 70 turbo '' To big for what I was running'', Alky kit and chip it run 11.20 at 119, We tore the motor down, Put a Eagle balanced crank, H-rods, JE pistons with Cam and griddle, Built tranny with PI 5 disk lockup, 83 injectors, A 66 BB turbo, Still working on the traction problem but it has run 10.40 at 133 at 20 pounds of boost,I would drive the car anyplace, It rides like a Caddy and gets about 23 mpg and is just pain pretty to look at, Easy to get in the low 11's gets a little harder to get in the low 10's to high 9's and drive it to and from the track
a car that runs 11's with 23mpg....hey you wanna work on my car for me.....haha thats awesome
 
Octane is what prevents stuff from blowing up. If you could afford to drive around with a tank of leaded 118, you would be the baddest mofo on the streets @ 25 psi of boost and have less of a chance of hurting the motor that if you ran straight 93 @ 18 psi of boost.
well thast what i run now 93 @ 18psi.... sounds like i need gas, alky and a nice tune to own my streets
 
we4Mateo said:
That is actually not that tough. I get close to 25mpg now with the lean cruise in my Bailey chip.

Is there anything this car cant do. I wish actually knew what I was doing. like you guys. This forum is awesome but I'm gonna have to meet with someone to reach my goals.
 
LOL this post took off without response from the starter.......

I will put in my $.02 to the op

You will get suggestions as to what you need for your goals and as posted above there are lots of cars going fast with mostly stock parts.......the thing you dont hear too much about is the boost level it takes to get there.........

Yeah these cars will run very good with stock turbo's intercooler unopened engines but to be able to run that combo at 25-28psi or more takes some serious knowledge on tuning.....This is where I think lots of new TB owners get lost or mislead because it seems a lot of posts on this subject just touch on the tune. You hear guys say yeah it can be done with these minimal parts and "a good tune" but the details on the "tune" is what is left in the dark.

Most all TB owners going fast know it's the correct combo and the tune to run and fast and make the engine live but you dont really hear how long they have been tuning or how many times things have blown up due to not knowing how to tune or trial and error.

My suggestion is to overbuild for your goal (if your budget allows it) so you don't have to squeeze the car so hard to achieve the time you want.....also rethink how often you will actually go to the track....you say a few times a year but if you are new to these cars and tuning it is going to take some track time to get the car where you want it to be even with the right parts! I have seen lots of cars with 10sec combos barley get into the low 12's high 11 range.

Read and study as much as you can before you move on buying parts and have a clear understanding on what it will take to do what you want.

Best of luck!!!!!!!!!!!
 
UNGN said:
It's a pretty tough, expensive trick to go from mid to high 14's... likely what your current car runs to "high 10's" if you want to do it more than a couple times.

A much more realistic goal is "High 11's", because reliable "High Tens" is a $3-5,000 deal when starting with a stock car that doesn't even have a Hot wire, yet... as you'll need Trans mods, Internal Motor mods, a Torque converter, rear axles and lots of other parts that are going to break at "mid 11's".

Yes, people have bolted stuff on a stock car and then at a -200 Ft MSL DA track run a high 10, but that isn't a realistic expectation.

That isn't something you can take to the track every week and not expect to break $1500 worth of parts each run. It's basically a grenade with the pin pulled.

$3-5k for high tens? Maybe a few times if there were no pre existing problems and the owner knew what to do.
 
Thank you for all of the suggestions, busy weekend unpacking the new house so i couldnt respond. My budget is really as high as i need to go, i have other modes of transportation and time. I really hope to learn more and more about the tuning portion of these amazing vehicles. Thanks again!
 
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