Well Kids, I'm pretty excited!!

I have a whole pile of parts headed out to Turbo Lou for assembly next Friday...........

It's been over a year in the gathering of everything. :D This engine is going to be a monster......

So friggin' excited!!!!!!

I am so glad your plan is finally coming together!!!
And thank you for calling us "kids".
 
you might like this, for your new heart your putting in that dere regal
 

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No offence, but I'm not about top trust a bottle of stuff I've never heard of on my junk.
(or engine :))

Pistons and bearings will go out for Teflon coating. The outside of the block will get the ol' rattle can paint treatment once the final machining is done.

Headers, crossover and down pipe have already been beautifully ceramic coated.

What is that stuff, anyway?
 
its just a dressing for engine bays not meant for internal parts or anything like that
a detailing product , keeps everything looking nice and clean
 
i haven't tried it yet gonna do the wifes fiat first see how it goes/looks
supoosedly the latest and greatest
 
I had a friend years ago that turned me onto his engine bay detailing secret. Pressure wash the heavy dirt / grime off the engine then spray it down with a mixture which is 50 / 50 Armorall and water. Wipe the excess of the large surfaces and let the rest dry on its own. It's an expensive fix and works well.

Neal
 
I had a friend years ago that turned me onto his engine bay detailing secret. Pressure wash the heavy dirt / grime off the engine then spray it down with a mixture which is 50 / 50 Armorall and water. Wipe the excess of the large surfaces and let the rest dry on its own. It's an expensive fix and works well.

Neal
that's good he cuts it with water amorall is actually a horrible product IMOP, its petroleum based and once you start using it you have to keep using it, its greasy and attracts dirt and grim and will harm electronics and actually promotes cracking of plastics and rubber prematurely , it will also cause rubber to turn brown with extended use over long periods of time, 303 protectant is a much better product IMOP
anyways, friends don't let friends use armor all
 
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Squirrel gathering nuts indeed ( emphasis on squirrel ) so let the saga begin after almost two years since guy finally wore out his previous build. I kept warning him that after 6 years of thrashing the engine needed to be torn down & freshened up. Guy has always spoken well of me & he will now get rewarded for his loyalty . I intend to give him every break possible to get him back on the road provided he has his evening cocktail after he posts & not start any pissing contests with anyone who happens to disagree with his enthusiasm. Mike Tomsinski owner of T/A has taken a personal interest in the project also & his parts will be used exclusivly . His parts & service are well respected & top notch. I estimate finish time to be about three months till Guy is back on the road & once again a menace on the streets of Phoenix.
 
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Squirrel gathering nuts indeed ( emphasis on squirrel ) so let the saga begin after almost two years since guy finally wore out his previous build. I kept warning him that after 6 years of thrashing the engine needed to be torn down & freshened up. Guy has always spoken well of me & he will now get rewarded for his loyalty . I intend to give him every break possible to get him back on the road provided he has his evening cocktail after he posts & not start any pissing contests with anyone who happens to disagree with his enthusiasm. Mike Tomsinski owner of T/A has taken a personel interest also & his parts will be used exclusivly . His parts & service are well respected & top notch. I estimate finish time to be about three monts till Guy is back on the road & once again a menace to the streets of Phoenix & pest to turbobuick.com.


:cool:
 
dyno results of last stroker motor build using stage II block 25 # boost pump gas alky injection. i thought i had a pretty good cold air inlet but note the difference in H.P. with air cleaner on then removed. So thats getting changed as well as a higher output alternator it wouldnt charge over 10 volts under boost. The dip in the graph because the trans wanted to down shift so operator wound it out in second then into third . I feel there is another 100 h.p. to be gained through tuneing & fixing the obvious.
on
339290
 
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dyno results of last stroker motor build using stage II block 25 # boost pump gas alky injection. i thought i had a pretty good cold air inlet but note the difference in H.P. with air cleaner on then removed. So thats getting changed as well as a higher output alternator it wouldnt charge over 10 volts under boost. The dip in the graph because the trans wanted to down shift so operator wound it out in second then into third . I feel there is another 100 h.p. to be gained through tuneing & fixing the obvious.
on View attachment 339290


Got Damn!
 
Guy...... glad to see you still addicted to these money pits,
this should be a really fun ride, keep us posted as I'm sure there are alot of
"kids" following this build.
oh, I had a similar build, and needed 3300 to 3500 stall converter to make it
stupid fast spooling,
 
Guy...... glad to see you still addicted to these money pits,
this should be a really fun ride, keep us posted as I'm sure there are alot of
"kids" following this build.
oh, I had a similar build, and needed 3300 to 3500 stall converter to make it
stupid fast spooling,

That's what it will have. I was incorrect when I stated 2800.
 
So, it looks as if we are going to dive in a little deeper here. Seems the only thing that will be re-used in the new engine will be the rods.

We've decided to go with a new forged stroker crank (it was a forged Archie GN1stroker before, but going with something new we feel will work better) and additionally, we are going with a set of new CP Pistons and the newest ring technology available.

Bearings and pistons will go to Calico Coatings prior to assembly.

So excited.......
 
alright the TGUY is serious as a heart attack with this build
get down baby get down !!
 
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