Weldon #14000 Fuel Controller

J-B Racing

Forced Induction
Joined
Sep 16, 2003
I am looking into buying one of these Units, So my question is anybody on the board is using this?

Thanks
 
What I wanted to know if everyone using Big Weldon Pumps use a Controller because I don't and I see I am over fueling the Engine.
I rather go that way than leaning out the XFI. What do you think?
 
What I wanted to know if everyone using Big Weldon Pumps use a Controller because I don't and I see I am over fueling the Engine.
I rather go that way than leaning out the XFI. What do you think?
If it's overfueling, you need to install a larger return line or better regulator. Accurate fuel pressure control is critical.
That being said, the controller will fix (band-aide) the problem and make the pump much more enjoyable on the street

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Cal I don't drive the car much on the street. And the Weldon is on a Hobb switch activating at #4 psi. My return is small and I know this can be the problem. And I can't do much about it because I use the stock pressure line with a Pump in the Tank. So I am trying to fix a problem with what I have as a set up. This is why my alternative of fixing this issue at WOT is using a Controller....
 
Cal I don't drive the car much on the street. And the Weldon is on a Hobb switch activating at #4 psi. My return is small and I know this can be the problem. And I can't do much about it because I use the stock pressure line with a Pump in the Tank. So I am trying to fix a problem with what I have as a set up. This is why my alternative of fixing this issue at WOT is using a Controller....
Ok. With the controller you will adjust the "Race mode" when it goes to full output. There isn't any "in between". It's got street mode then switches to race mode. This really isn't much different then your Hobbs setup. There might be slightly less delay reaching full output since it's already running. I suppose you could use the Hobbs, then street mode, then race mode to sorta ramp it up

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Ok. With the controller you will adjust the "Race mode" when it goes to full output. There isn't any "in between". It's got street mode then switches to race mode. This really isn't much different then your Hobbs setup. There might be slightly less delay reaching full output since it's already running. I suppose you could use the Hobbs, then street mode, then race mode to sorta ramp it up

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Cal,

I'm running one of these with a 2035 pump. Fuel pressure is lower when using the potentiometer. The car runs fine, but how can I know what the lowest/safest setting on the dial would be to drive the car? Would I need to adjust fuel pressure when running in race mode? At idle I see a 5 psi drop in fuel pressure when switching from race to street mode. I guess the question is, how can I know if the fuel pump is keeping up when in street mode? Do I have to flip the switch everytime I go WOT? Or is race mode more like a fail safe?
 
Cal,

I'm running one of these with a 2035 pump. Fuel pressure is lower when using the potentiometer. The car runs fine, but how can I know what the lowest/safest setting on the dial would be to drive the car? Would I need to adjust fuel pressure when running in race mode? At idle I see a 5 psi drop in fuel pressure when switching from race to street mode. I guess the question is, how can I know if the fuel pump is keeping up when in street mode? Do I have to flip the switch everytime I go WOT? Or is race mode more like a fail safe?
Is this on the combo in your signature? Its overkill if so.
 
Is this on the combo in your signature? Its overkill if so.
No, I need to update that. It's a stock block stroker, 67mm turbo, basically a 9 second set up...I know the fuel system is overkill. Big in tank single pumps weren't available at the time. I have a Weldon regulator and proper lines. I bought the controller basically to quiet down the pump for street driving with the idea that I can bypass that at the track with the switch. However, the way I'm seeing this is that I may have to adjust fuel pressure either way.
 
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