Max pressures should be 250+ if you want it to live. Base looks good. Is your TV plunder giving max boost in valvebody.Ok guys, thanks for your patience. I just got the trans back in and check out these pressures. Sorry I would’ve called you Bruce but I got at it 7am east coast time; not a cool wake up call! Here are the numbers per the sheet you gave me.
IDLE TV @1000 rpm
1/2 TV @ 1500 rpm
FULL TV @1500rpm
I decked the pump halves where the rotor clearance is .0015” and the slide is .0025”. I changed the PR valve train but putting the original lo/int boost valve back in (it was .035 longer than the one that was in there when I was having issues).
Please let me know if you think any of these pressures are of concern. Thanks again for all of your help!
When you say “Blocked” what do you mean? When I went through the VB everything was just cleaned up and the only mods done was the accumulator spring was changed. The line bias spring was changed (with tightly wound spring) and the 3-2 control valve had the spring removed and a plug installed at the end of the valve. I basically did the CK shift kit (instructions attached)I’d assume the max is lower than it could be because the line bias valve isn’t blocked/piggybacked. If it IS blocked, you probably have a problem.
It’s a CR VB with the CK .555 valve, I swapped out the CK .300 for the .300 (unknown make) that came out, and also swapped back to the original spring and the pressures got in line mostly. Now it’s just trying to get the 1 -2 pressures up a bit. I haven’t road tested the car to see how it feels. I also should have run the engine up to 2000 to see if the pressures continued to increase like they did from 1000 to 1500.What boost valves are in the pump ? The CK .550 has been problematic for me on a DIY. Some of the Ck kits were. .550/.300. I tried that and pressures were low on a 7 vane rotor.
The .500/.283 combo seems to do me just fine with a sonnax regulator spring. You can swap with trans in the car. I’ve only used BR, CZ , and CR valve bodies behind my Olds motors and don’t know your VB codes but I know those have the .430 TV valves.
I just build these 1-2 times a year. All my recent pumps came directly from Ck already done.
All of the pump parts are new and I’ve had it apart once and everything looked great and in the proper places, rotor and slide clearances good. Relief spring an ball all good and went back with the washer at the base that’s all in place. The tv is .500 and the lo/ int is .300. Funny thing is I now have 3 PR complete valve trains and hardly a difference when I change them. Thinking it’s something wonky coming from the VB. But running out of things to change.SO, I'm guessing here, is this sonnax a .500 boost and .283 rev boost valves and the 700 spring? When reassembling are you sure you put the seal under the slide and the one on the edge of the slide? Have you pulled out the over pressure relief set up and inspected the ball and seat? I like the bison washer mod as seen below.
Under that roll pin is a spring and ball. If the spring has been damaged and isnt holding the ball down it could be bypassing. But with that there is usually a buzzing sound and some get trans fluid out the breather tube on top of the trans.
Only other things I can think of is worn parts(vane, slide, spring) or the slide spring could be weak but that is a volume thing not pressure.