Wastegate soleniod ????

TheHitman!

Member
Joined
May 8, 2016
Where does it get the 5v from. I have a code and I know it is plugged in but did not see any voltage at it.
 
You have to zoom in but here is a Ecm schematiC
3CADD0EA-947B-476E-A872-84E773A42ABE.gif
 
The solenoid gets 12v. It comes from the ecm/rly fuse. It shares power with the canister.
The circuit powers up when the key is turned on. The ecm then uses the ground wire for control.

Hope this helps
 
So looking at the diagram and thank you for it.. It shows a brake switch connection as well as d3 to the ecm. Would that brake switch have anything to do with my car being converted to vacuum brakes and something not connected? New car to me and I am trying to work things out. i would like to keep it ecm controlled instead of tuner style if I can.
 
There are a few errors on that diagram above. Hopefully whoever designed this can modify it - it's a really nice reference chart.

Park/Neutral sense (B10) is actually Orange/Black.

Wastegate solenoid, EGR solenoid, TCC soldnoid and Canister Purge solenoid Pink/Blk are switched positive to a ECM SOL fuse.

That wiring diagram shows the CRANK sensor incorrectly designated. Fallback from the 84 diagram, the engineers missed it in 1986 and 1987. Dk Green wire is actually positive.

The TCC switches should be normally closed. They're shown normally open.

The oil pressure switch doesn't use a ground. It's shown with four connections, but only uses three. The tan wire should be closed to positive at rest, and opens during low pressure only, but the other contacts close under pressure.

It would also be very helpful if there were pin labels on each sensor and switch wire, i.e. TPS - A:Gray, B:Blue, C:Black.

I don't know who did this layout, but it could be a nice thing to have as a laminated wall chart if it were corrected and improved a bit.
 
Actually I think the oil pressure switch is closed to it's body which is grounded at rest.

This ground lights the bulb when below 4 psi. pressure including bulb test etc.

Bulb is powered all the time +12 through the gages fuse when the key is on.

That part of the switch opens over 4 psi. removing the ground and the bulb goes out.
 
^^ you might be right about that. I'd need to go and look at the diagrams again. Spend too much time trying to recall by memory....
 
The egr canister? It is missing as well on my car and the plug is just laying over there.

The purge canister for the evap system. If yours is missing you may consider finding one and putting it back in. It has no ill effect on performance.

As far as power, like mentioned there are a few things that share the same circuit. Looks like the brake switch should not effect the power to the boost solenoid or purge canister.

ecmwiring1.jpg
 
I have a cold air kit that runs down beside the radiator where that canister once was... So looking at that diagram does power flow through the brake like switch to the solenoid or from the other way?
 
Thank you for the clarification. Can the boost solenoid be cleaned with contact cleaner? I really do not want to go back to tuner style but buying a 300 dollar switch is not in the budget at this time.
 
Thank you for the clarification. Can the boost solenoid be cleaned with contact cleaner? I really do not want to go back to tuner style but buying a 300 dollar switch is not in the budget at this time.
$300 ? You can get a Mac solenoid that’s like $45 and it’s a lot better then the stock piece . Just wire it in solder or crimp . The wire direction doesn’t matter .
 
I did some google searches but the voltage and styles are all over the place. I will look at full throttle and see what they have.
 
Thank you for the clarification. Can the boost solenoid be cleaned with contact cleaner? I really do not want to go back to tuner style but buying a 300 dollar switch is not in the budget at this time.
What have you done to prove that your boost solenoid is bad?
 
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