Vacuum brake conversion question

turbolou

Lou's Automotive 949-378-1590
Joined
Jun 23, 2001
What is the correct choice of vacuum booster/ master cly combination to do a conversion to Vacuum brakes. I have always been able to get by sticking with the power master system. But lately it has been difficult trying to find parts & need to find something that works & stays fixed.
 
Hey Lou! Just shop a vacuum booster (dual diaphram) for a normally aspirated 87 regal. It's the same as G body Cutlass, GP, Bonneville. Only Montes have the single diaphragm as pictured on the G-body sight, but Brian (g-body) has both single and double. You'll also need to change away from the powermaster pedal. Pin is relocated.
 
My setup is for a 1987 Regal "V8". I pd. $125.00 for a reman'd Wagner dual diaphram, and $70.00 for a "new" Wagner MC.
 
Hey Lou! Just shop a vacuum booster (dual diaphram) for a normally aspirated 87 regal. It's the same as G body Cutlass, GP, Bonneville. Only Montes have the single diaphragm as pictured on the G-body sight, but Brian (g-body) has both single and double. You'll also need to change away from the powermaster pedal. Pin is relocated.

So the dual diaphram is the way to go?
 
That is what all normally aspirated G-bodies came with, except for the Monte Carlo. You know Cheverolet. They always have to be the fly in the ointment. :p

Can't blame Chevrolet as a whole. my 86 El Camino has a dual diaphragm booster
 
Reply

Here's another good source for info on this conversion.

Vacuum Brake Install
Thanks Tim I know how to do the installation. I just want to know the right parts to use. That unit i ordered was supposed to be for a N/A 3.8 87 Regal & you seen what I was sent. No way was it the correct M/Cly with four fluid ports. I think your car is out to get me.
 
Thanks Tim I know how to do the installation. I just want to know the right parts to use. That unit i ordered was supposed to be for a N/A 3.8 87 Regal & you seen what I was sent. No way was it the correct M/Cly with four fluid ports. I think your car is out to get me.

LOL.:D
I know you know how to do the conversion...I sent the link because it has the PN info in it...I think it's on pg. 4 and 5 of the write up.

I also re-linked the write up to this string so others who are thinking about this conversion would have easy access to it.

That MC you showed me in your shop is definitely not the right one.
 
Thanks Tim I know how to do the installation. I just want to know the right parts to use. That unit i ordered was supposed to be for a N/A 3.8 87 Regal & you seen what I was sent. No way was it the correct M/Cly with four fluid ports. I think your car is out to get me.

How many G-body cars do you suppose were sold between 1981 and 1988, and yet the part's idiots of today can't send you the right MC? They all used the same unit even if the G-body Monte came with the single diaphram booster. :rolleyes:
 
How many G-body cars do you suppose were sold between 1981 and 1988, and yet the part's idiots of today can't send you the right MC? They all used the same unit even if the G-body Monte came with the single diaphram booster. :rolleyes:

It definitely was not the right MC that they sent.
It had the two brake line ports that are normally there, but also had two additional larger ports.

Could it have worked by plugging the two extra/large ports? Probably....but...
 
Here's another good source for info on this conversion.

Vacuum Brake Install

Just a couple of notes for anyone changing that pedal. I always use a 3/8" drive ratchet and 11/16" socket on that nut and you have to lower the steering column to access the head of the bolt. You can use either a 16mm or 5/8" combination wrench. You can reach up to get the 11/16" on there. It's a lock nut. To access the bolt head, just reach down above the lowered steering column and find the bolt.
 
It definitely was not the right MC that they sent.
It had the two brake line ports that are normally there, but also had two additional larger ports.

Could it have worked by plugging the two extra/large ports? Probably....but...

No, I was just commenting with all the G-body cars sold, which all used the same master cylinder, they should have sent the right one. Even B-body master cylinders work.
 
4 ports on an MC? I'd bet they sent you a FWD one. Hard to belive it but sometimes things do get miss boxed.
 
Just a couple of notes for anyone changing that pedal. I always use a 3/8" drive ratchet and 11/16" socket on that nut and you have to lower the steering column to access the head of the bolt. You can use either a 16mm or 5/8" combination wrench. You can reach up to get the 11/16" on there. It's a lock nut. To access the bolt head, just reach down above the lowered steering column and find the bolt.

I didn't have to lower the steering column to access any of the bolts.... I followed the procedure on gnttype.org, exactly as written... 'cept they have a couple bolt/nut sizes wrong... piece of cake, if you have a decent selection of extensions, sockets, combination wrenches, and a swivel or u-joint.... and remember which extension/socket/wrench combination worked for each bolt on the way out....
 
I didn't have to lower the steering column to access any of the bolts.... I followed the procedure on gnttype.org, exactly as written... 'cept they have a couple bolt/nut sizes wrong... piece of cake, if you have a decent selection of extensions, sockets, combination wrenches, and a swivel or u-joint.... and remember which extension/socket/wrench combination worked for each bolt on the way out....

Yeah, I thought about it after I wrote that post. I was describing what I have to do to snatch the pedals in the junkyard. In the first link above, you see in the photo a 13mm bolt (right above where it says 18mm). When the booster is out, the only thing holding the saddle that holds the pedal is that 13mm bolt. Remove it and just pull the whole saddle out or down to the floor and remove the powermaster pedal from the saddle and replace with the vacuum brake pedal. :smile:
 
I bought vac brake conversion from John couple years ago very easy to do works great , directions very clear. be sure to clamp those vac lines !!! Be sure to bleed mc correctly
 
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