vacuum brake conv?

ffej

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
im ready to switch my brakes over and was hoping someone had a list of parts in need . im looking to go to advanced auto or autozone and need to know what car i should order parts for so its a direct fit. or would it be better to order a complete kit from a vendor . thanks for all help and opinions!,jeff
 
Depends on how involved you want it to be. Some guys hit the used section for a vac pedal, there are kits at kit and, eBay and other venders. Some guys want a different vac booster from an impala or a fancy wildwood mc. If you want ez hit a vender and get the kit. If you have your own ideas you can order stuff for a mcss(mc and vac booster) or regal or any g body. Mc can be had in different bore sizes, 7/8", 1", 1 1/8" and you can go aluminum w/ plastic reservoir, iron reservoir or one of the after market as mentioned above.

I went hydroboost as I didn't want to goof with locating a different pedal. Your car, your call. If it stops the car it will be better than the iffy powermaster.
 
whats the difference in bore size? if i order a mc and booster for an 87 regal it will be a direct bolt in? or is a system from a diff car better? thanks again,jeff
 
You will need the pedal from a vac equipped g body or to relocate the pin on your power master pedal. You will have to "massage" the brake lines to hook them up to the new mc.

The different size bores move different amounts of brake fluid. This will affect pedal feel and braking performance. I used a Cadillac mc on my h-boost set up. There are different setups for different size rotors and such.

I would do a search. I guess others have figured some of the different combos out.
 
I was lazy and bought a kit, works good, I think it was $330.00, probably a lot but no hassle
 
I don't notice a difference, but....I drive like grand ma Moses, I haven't tried launching under boost or anything like that, just normal driving
 
I got the master cylinder, brake booster and pedal off of an '86 Monte SS from a salvage yard.
I feel it has a more solid pedal (even more so with SS lines) and the stopping distance seems like it is a lot shorter as compared to factory powermaster, but that may be the ceramic pads. (Wearever platinum ceramic pads)
I have the SSBC rear disc conversion, but it was on with the powermaster as well.
I have Auto X'd some with no problems.
 
Good info guys. Is the system swap something that can be done by a person with average skills and how long does it take? . A local shop wants $650-$700 to do the conversion with their parts and I see the complete kit swap with new (used) pedal can be had for $350 on ebay or a little more from Kirban. Either way I too need to either fix my Powermaster which keeps blowing fuses or just go to the vacuum system.
 
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Swapping my PM to vacuum is one of the best non performance mods I've done. I fought with that PM for 2-3 years trying to get it right, throwing parts at it. I should of listened to the guys telling me to dump it and go vacuum but no, I thought I was gonna be a hero and get it working perfect. I say save yourself alot of headaches and convert to vacuum or H-boost like Rich.
The piece of mind knowing your gonna stop is reason enough
 
Swapping my PM to vacuum is one of the best non performance mods I've done. I fought with that PM for 2-3 years trying to get it right, throwing parts at it. I should of listened to the guys telling me to dump it and go vacuum but no, I thought I was gonna be a hero and get it working perfect. I say save yourself alot of headaches and convert to vacuum or H-boost like Rich.
The piece of mind knowing your gonna stop is reason enough
Did you do the swap?
 
Yes, not too bad really, pedal was the hardest part. Mines a bench Ltd so I took the seat out to get under there better.
I bought the complete kit off M233roller (Mike) for I think $175 if memory serves. Super guy to deal with as well if you need parts.
 
thanks for the replies sounds like there are several options as far as what other cars will work. do the factory brake lines just line up and screw right into the new mc? and what about brake pressure switch how does it work with the swap?
 
thanks for the replies sounds like there are several options as far as what other cars will work. do the factory brake lines just line up and screw right into the new mc? and what about brake pressure switch how does it work with the swap?

I don't recall where the brake lines connected to the powermaster as its been 20yrs since I converted. Here's what they look like now.
image.jpg


The proportioning valve and the brake pressure switch work just as they did before.
It's dark in the garage at the moment, if you would like more photos I can post more tomorrow.
I installed mine myself, I took my time and was done in a day. Worst part is working in the confined space under the dash.
Make sure to "bench bleed" the master cylinder first to remove all the air out by connecting vac hoses to plastic fittings screwed into the M/C and looped to the reservoir and pushing the piston all the way in repeatedly until all air bubbles are gone as once it's installed the pedal doesn't push the piston to the end of the stroke possibly trapping air inside causing a spongy pedal.
 
Hey Eagleguy, its an easy swap i can give you a hand and save you 700 bucks. Well maybe 600 after beers and some food lol
 
Orlando. If you get a kit try and get a dual diaphram one. They work alot better.
 
gx1 thanks for pic and reply and the hint about bench bleeding think i might order a complete kit from a vendor sounds like easiest way to go.
 
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