Upgrading rear brakes and cylinders question

I did the s10 wheel cylinders on my car. The rears will lock up quickly now. Just be aware of that.


That's exactly the reason I'm asking this question. I'm thinking that front braking increased by 20% would negate the "rear lock up " effect?

Here's a question for you.
Does anybody know if the GM Metric Oversized Front Brake Callipers (2-3/4") bore paired with the larger S-10 (7/8" bore) rear brake cylinders would provide a balanced braking bias? The oversized Metric Callipers claim they have about 20% more clamping force over the factory units.

Stock front Metric Callipers are 2-1/2" bore and rear brake cylinders are 3/4" bore.
 
That's exactly the reason I'm asking this question. I'm thinking that front braking increased by 20% would negate the "rear lock up " effect?

Here's a question for you.
Does anybody know if the GM Metric Oversized Front Brake Callipers (2-3/4") bore paired with the larger S-10 (7/8" bore) rear brake cylinders would provide a balanced braking bias? The oversized Metric Callipers claim they have about 20% more clamping force over the factory units.

Stock front Metric Callipers are 2-1/2" bore and rear brake cylinders are 3/4" bore.



Anyone?
 
I have the blazer front brake setup with the s10 7/8th rears with one long shoe and one short . I've never had any locking up issues . I also upgraded all the brake lines to the Russell's . They work well IMO
 
I have the blazer front brake setup with the s10 7/8th rears with one long shoe and one short . I've never had any locking up issues . I also upgraded all the brake lines to the Russell's . They work well IMO


Thanks dank GN.

Since you're runnning a little bigger front brakes than I presently have, suspect my brake bias would be different and may have a tendency to lock up in damp / wet road conditions?
Was thinking of upgrading the front callipers to the 2-3/4" bore (oversized) GM Metric Brake Callipers. They claim to have +20% more clamping force. Not sure if this would correct the potential issue?
 
On my TB, GM metric oversized front calipers are used w/S-10 rear brake cylinders and vacuum brakes. I have tested these for the very issue you raise. My brakes have not locked up nor showm any noticeable bias despite a number of crude, heavy, slam on the brake, tests.
 
I'm having one hell of a time getting those cylinders installed , the drives went in ok but the passenger is being tuff , I even went back and swapped it and still , I cant get it . Its really weighing on my nerves
 
Although I haven't installed mine yet, I understand if you place a wood wedge between the brake cylinder and the axle hub, then take a large socket and give it a good whack with a hammer, should do the trick . Could also clamp it to the axle housing so it won't move and give it a whack with the right sized socket to install the retaining clip.
 
Maybe take a deep breath walk away have a beer come back put on some oldies and talk to her nice and you will get it in lol . I had the same issue I couldn't get that dam clip in for the life of me . It just took alil time away from it and had to whisper sweet nothings to her and finally I got it in :)
 
On my TB, GM metric oversized front calipers are used w/S-10 rear brake cylinders and vacuum brakes. I have tested these for the very issue you raise. My brakes have not locked up nor showm any noticeable bias despite a number of crude, heavy, slam on the brake, tests.


Thanks Silver Ghost,
Hope you don't mind, but I've a couple more questions for you.
How is your brake pedal travel now? Wondering if it goes toward the floor more? Is it a firm feel or soft feel on your brake pedal?
With the front oversized metric callipers and the 24mm stepped master cylinder do your brakes have a nice progressive feel? Am worried that they may have a tendency to lock up ?

thanks
dave
 
I am very pleased with the feel and how well my car stops. Brake travel, fore/aft bias, locking and stopping are nonissues. However, to bleed GM metric oversized brakes, the calipers have to be removed and held with the brake screw positioned on top. Then, bleed as usual.
 
I got it on this evening , A socket and a C clamp done the trick

OK, I"m struggling to get mine on too!

I guess I need a bigger hammer (LOL- so my wife tells me)......seriously, I'm thinking I need at least a 3 or 5lb dead blow hammer to be able to pound that sucker clip on! Can you tell me did you get on side on first then whack it on or not? Any helpful suggestions appreciated.

dave
 
OK, I"m struggling to get mine on too!

I guess I need a bigger hammer (LOL- so my wife tells me)......seriously, I'm thinking I need at least a 3 or 5lb dead blow hammer to be able to pound that sucker clip on! Can you tell me did you get on side on first then whack it on or not? Any helpful suggestions appreciated.

dave

No you need to squeeze so both snap at the same time. Using the tool I made and a 6 inch (or bigger) C-clamp on the wheel cylinder, you clamp it.
 
Thanks for your offer Michael,
Would you be able to post a picture of the tool you made?
It would be a big help to others going down this road .

PM sent
Thanks
Dave
 
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