Turbo V6 Camaro

Jon Early

Active Member
I've long since burned off that engine paint.
Engine paint on exhaust 1.jpg


Engine paint on exhaust 2.jpg

Gross. The car has been apart for about a week while I found time to respray these parts with ceramic spray. As of last night they have been rewrapped.
Merge wrapped.jpg

Downpipe wrapped 1.jpg

Downpipe wrapped 4.jpg

Downpipe wrapped 2.jpg

My fiance says I should wrap casts! I'm happy with how it turned out. I'm glad my welds aren't exposed anymore. :ROFLMAO:
 

dezldave961

2004 Turbo Regal
Nice. Wrapping can be a fun time, as long as the ends behave. Always reminds me of taping up my hockey sticks.

Edit: What's the plan for the block work? Forged slugs for piece of mind?
 

Jon Early

Active Member
Nice. Wrapping can be a fun time, as long as the ends behave. Always reminds me of taping up my hockey sticks.

Edit: What's the plan for the block work? Forged slugs for piece of mind?
I don't find it to be too hard, but it's easy to get impatient when your hands are getting cold, black, and full of fibers. I also went with a cheap roll from Summit so that I wouldn't feel bad for cutting off a piece bigger than I needed. It seems like everybody swears by DEI, but I had a hell of a time keeping it in one piece. Their ties are outrageously priced too. I got a pack of 100 knock off ties from Amazon for $10 and they were a lot easier to use. Let's hope this cheap wrap holds up.

I got an L32 for free. My buddy is a shop teacher and apparently has no use for it since most of his teaching is online. Score! It had a gnarly ridge and no cross hatch, so he reamed, honed and hot tanked it. I'm not sure what the plan is yet. Do you think the pistons are the weak link? I was thinking about initially doing ARP main studs, ZZP H-beams, full balance, line hone, new rings, new bearings, and done with stock pistons. Then if I started pushing 600whp I'd go get forged pistons, new rings, rebalance, and reassemble. You think I should just do it all now?
 

dezldave961

2004 Turbo Regal
Since you are in there, I would do pistons before all of that other window dressing. The first thing to happen when you lean out, even at 300hp, is piston edge's chip above the top ring. Ask me how I know, as do many many others from years passed..

If you are going to build a nice short block, then I would certainly check off everything from that list you mentioned, though.
 

Jon Early

Active Member
Since you are in there, I would do pistons before all of that other window dressing. The first thing to happen when you lean out, even at 300hp, is piston edge's chip above the top ring. Ask me how I know, as do many many others from years passed..

If you are going to build a nice short block, then I would certainly check off everything from that list you mentioned, though.
Gotcha. I thought that was just an issue with the L36 stuff. I guess I'll pony up the extra grand. Any need for the expensive coatings? I never quite understood that.
 

dezldave961

2004 Turbo Regal
Not sure on the coatings. That's probably something more universal you can shop around for. I'd read up on what people benefit from them, weigh costs between the couple brands available/options, and pull the trigger when you're ready.
 

Jon Early

Active Member
Not sure on the coatings. That's probably something more universal you can shop around for. I'd read up on what people benefit from them, weigh costs between the couple brands available/options, and pull the trigger when you're ready.
The only forged pistons I know about are the JEs at ZZP which sell for $1000, the Diamonds on Intense which also run $1000, or the same Diamonds uncoated for $780. Then there are three different compression ratios to choose from.
 

Jon Early

Active Member
I'm not really sure which way to go with any of that. lol I don't wanna sacrifice too much power before boost, so I don't think I'm interested in the 8.0:1 option.
 

dezldave961

2004 Turbo Regal
Ya, I think there's also a Wiseco or Mahle option, but might've faded out. Australian shops like Mace may have something else, too.

You'll want to stick with something in the 8-9:1 realm for turbo. The 9.5-10;1 are meant for s/c builds to not spin the blower as hard for similar cylinder pressure. Boost from the turbo is much more efficient and controlable/coolable than the others, which is why lower compression is favored.

I have a stock 8.5 L32 bottom in my turbo engine, and a stock 9.4 L26 in my s/c engine. Also have a friend's 8.0 Diamonds buried in storage somewhere, that may get reassembled for the turbo someday. Zoom is building a stroker high compression setup for M90, using the COME stuff from AUS. Tons of options.
 
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