Racetronics supply line routing

tbaumann

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
I am looking for some Turbo advice. My current setup is 87 GN with a stock turbo, IC, free flowing exhaust, DW 300 pump, hot wire ,adjustable fp reg, scanmaster 2.1., 80 lb injectors E85 TT Chip, LT1 MAF, Translator, Powerlogger, AEM WB

I will be adding a downpipe -not sure which one so If anyone as recommendations on one. I was thinking a 3” RJC racing.

What is the best turbo option if I stay with the stock converter? I was thinking TE44 / TA49. Or what stall upgrade would I need if I went a little bigger turbo.
 
I am looking for some Turbo advice. My current setup is 87 GN with a stock turbo, IC, free flowing exhaust, DW 300 pump, hot wire ,adjustable fp reg, scanmaster 2.1., 80 lb injectors E85 TT Chip, LT1 MAF, Translator, Powerlogger, AEM WB

I will be adding a downpipe -not sure which one so If anyone as recommendations on one. I was thinking a 3” RJC racing.

What is the best turbo option if I stay with the stock converter? I was thinking TE44 / TA49. Or what stall upgrade would I need if I went a little bigger turbo.
Call Bison. He'll get you set up w/ a good combo.
 
What is the best turbo option if I stay with the stock converter? I was thinking TE44 / TA49.
even with a garret ex housing on the stock converter a 49 turbo has lag time.the best turbo for the stock converter is the stock turbo,if you have maxed out the stocker,then you can upgrade the turbo but you should also upgrade the converter.you could try the 49 on what you have and see if you like it first but things can easily cascade.a 49 and a 9 inch converter,on a stock motor with a trans upgrade is a simple combo that has alot of good turbo response and can run real good.
 
On a stock headed motor ,Car will fly with a 3" dp, Mfs 59mm turbo (31 trim), 3021 9.5" Husek converter and e85, or you can find an old pt-51 or a te-60 if on a budget.
With e85 you have wiggle room to keep the stock i/c but id still dutt-neck it for the flow off the turbo.
 
I am looking for some Turbo advice. My current setup is 87 GN with a stock turbo, IC, free flowing exhaust, DW 300 pump, hot wire ,adjustable fp reg, scanmaster 2.1., 80 lb injectors E85 TT Chip, LT1 MAF, Translator, Powerlogger, AEM WB

I will be adding a downpipe -not sure which one so If anyone as recommendations on one. I was thinking a 3” RJC racing.

What is the best turbo option if I stay with the stock converter? I was thinking TE44 / TA49. Or what stall upgrade would I need if I went a little bigger turbo.
The transmission condition will be a major decision maker how much turbo and converter to install.
 
I am close to max on the stock turbo. I am running 23 to 24 lbs and i don't think there is much left. so it sounds like I will need to upgrade the converter with the turbo even if i stay with a TE44 / TA49. The transmission seems to be ok. It seems like it has a shift kit form the way it acts, but that was done before i had it.

Which converters do you recommend? is a stall around 3000 ok? I still want good street manners.
 
Thinking with these cars will get you in trouble most of the time. You have to know. Examples: I think my AFR is 11.5 and think my voltage is 14.0

For a LU converter, there really is only one current popular option with an unknown transmission. Husek 3021 as stated previously. Don't worry about the stall. Tell Dave what you hope to achieve, and start budgeting for a transmission. Lol
 
I am close to max on the stock turbo. I am running 23 to 24 lbs and i don't think there is much left. so it sounds like I will need to upgrade the converter with the turbo even if i stay with a TE44 / TA49. The transmission seems to be ok. It seems like it has a shift kit form the way it acts, but that was done before i had it.

Which converters do you recommend? is a stall around 3000 ok? I still want good street manners.
I don't know how quick you are looking to go, I ran 11.6 with a TE44 and a stock converter and 255/60-15 MTs on alky. A converter change took me to an 11.5. Launch was easier, and trapped a couple hundred rpm higher than stock. I was at the track with a guy running a stock long block car/stock converter, TA49, alky on 275/60-15s running 11.4s, he had a FAST and Bison was helping him tune.

Max boost does not necessarily translate to max performance, have you taken the car to the track? If not consider how you are going to tune and measure performance, because many have spent money on parts to go slower.

With E85, you should be able to turn a 12.0 on you current setup if everything is tight and up to snuff. Some have gone quicker.
With a 44/49 you want the shifts happening by around 5000 rpm. Don't get hung up on stall numbers because they don't mean anything. The right converter will slip enough down low to get to the right operating point in the rpm range on the line, flash to a good rpm point out of the hole and on the shifts, and be tight enough up top that you do not slip to far past the HP peak in the RPM range. The wrong converter will screw it all up. The stock converter is a little tight on the bottom, flash is a little low to OK, but is pretty good up top at the traps for the stock cam/small turbo.

When you need a transmission rebuild Dave Husek can help you out.
 
The stock combo is a roach over 4400rpm. Valve springs will need to be replaced and set. The turbo is the only thing keeping it going at all. Once the turbo is switched the stock intercooler will choke it really bad. Intercooler before down pipe. Stock converter will et better than most other $600 converters on a small turbine like a t31 although it ,might be a little harder to drive it out of the hole. 275/60-15 drag radial for the most potential. For e85 you can probably drop half a second with intercooler,more turbo (something with a 60-1 and 61mm turbine or equivalent and the 9.5 race converter. You wont be getting there without a lot of manifold pressure either. Still on stock down pipe. A downpipe is worth a little and will introduce a potential problem with the swing valve and fitment. Intercooler, converter and turbo=huge gains if you can feed it and the tune is close.
 
The stock combo is a roach over 4400rpm. Valve springs will need to be replaced and set. The turbo is the only thing keeping it going at all. Once the turbo is switched the stock intercooler will choke it really bad. Intercooler before down pipe. Stock converter will et better than most other $600 converters on a small turbine like a t31 although it ,might be a little harder to drive it out of the hole. 275/60-15 drag radial for the most potential. For e85 you can probably drop half a second with intercooler,more turbo (something with a 60-1 and 61mm turbine or equivalent and the 9.5 race converter. You wont be getting there without a lot of manifold pressure either. Still on stock down pipe. A downpipe is worth a little and will introduce a potential problem with the swing valve and fitment. Intercooler, converter and turbo=huge gains if you can feed it and the tune is close.
Real tech!
 
The stock combo is a roach over 4400rpm. Valve springs will need to be replaced and set. The turbo is the only thing keeping it going at all. Once the turbo is switched the stock intercooler will choke it really bad. Intercooler before down pipe. Stock converter will et better than most other $600 converters on a small turbine like a t31 although it ,might be a little harder to drive it out of the hole. 275/60-15 drag radial for the most potential. For e85 you can probably drop half a second with intercooler,more turbo (something with a 60-1 and 61mm turbine or equivalent and the 9.5 race converter. You wont be getting there without a lot of manifold pressure either. Still on stock down pipe. A downpipe is worth a little and will introduce a potential problem with the swing valve and fitment. Intercooler, converter and turbo=huge gains if you can feed it and the tune is close.

Thanks for the knowledge dump. This information is much appreciated. I have noticed the stock setup gets flat on the upper RPM. I have the valve springs on the way along with a new timing chain. I won’t be able to do all the mods at the same time. I am planning on doing this in a phased step approach.

It sounds like the order of modifications should be:

  • Valve Springs
  • Intercooler should be Second - I was looking for a SLIC to keep the stock look
  • Turbo – I didn’t want to go too crazy that’s why I was going to start with a TE44 and stay with the stock converter, but it sounds like many folks recommend upgrading the converter even with the TE44. If I jump to a bigger turbo (Not sure which one – maybe something to support 600 hp) I would need to do the convertor at the same time
  • Converter = folks here have recommended Husek 3021. I am guessing a stall around 3200 but I will need to pick the turbo first
 
Save up for a new trans too. You'll be rebuilding that in short order after you start making real power.
 
12 flat and drag radials did mine in.
 
So I guess I need to start saving for a tranny rebuild. I will run it until it goes. What does a typical rebuild run and can some recommend a good transmission guy in the Wisconsin area
 
I will run it until it goes.
I would advise against this thought,I actually wont mod a car without the tranny done anymore.if you want to go fast it's going to cost,put your turbo and intercooler money into the trans and converter and the car will last and not leave you stuck or crashed.you can put a used 49 turbo on the car if you want to save and keep the stock intercooler as it will run 11s easy.
 
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