Turbo Selection Particulars Help

[SpeedRacerX]

Need someone to provide some clarity please before I buy the wrong thing.

Here's what I know. I'm going to buy a 6262 turbo, most likely a Precision. I was told to stick with a 3" inlet and 2" outlet and a .63 AR 3-bolt like the TA49 I am replacing.

Precision offers a TA6262 CEA and a PT6262 CEA. The PT is rated for more horsepower. I assume the difference is in stock appearing or not but why the difference in horsepower rating?

I guess I could care less about stock appearing. All I want is for it to bolt right up to my 3" TH-style-DP and for the heavy duty actuator from my TA49 to work.

Should I care about stock appearing?
Will my TA49 actuator only work on the TA6262 and not on the PT6262?
Why the horsepower difference between TA and PT?
Do I retain the billet inlet bell from my TA49 for use with either the TA6262 or the PT6262? If not, what do I do?

Thanks in advance.

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[Nigel]

From what I have read, do not use the heavy duty actuator for the 6262. The 6262 makes boost with less exhaust pressure, so be careful. TA cover makes a little less power, not sure you would notice on a stock motor. Same actuator, bracket needs modification to work on an E cover of the PT. TA should come with an inlet bell.

 

[RUQWKNF]

TA is the stock appearing compressor cover with the bolt on inlet bell. (Like your TA-49) The regular PT6262 version can be had with either a E cover or a S ported shroud cover, SP for short. The E and S covers get specific compressor cover brackets welded to the wastegate actuator. The TA uses the stock wastegate actuator bracket bolt pattern. The HD actuator you have on your TA-49 will only direct bolt to the TA6262 stock appearing version. The horsepower differences, come from the compressor cover size differences. TA cover makes the lowest number and also heats the charge temps more when the boost goes past 21psi or so. The E cover has the same 3" inlet, 2" discharge as your TA-49 turbo. But to be honest, if your plans are for 19-21psi street and 25-30psi race mode, get the ported shroud S cover and run a 4" to 3" reducer hose for the MAF pipe, and a 2.5" to 2" reducer hose for your intercooler. If you have a 3" MAF pipe, you should not need to run an IAC angle plate, but if you upgrade to a 4" MAF pipe, you typically will need one, as the IAC wires are basically smooshed by the hose and clamp. I have done this in the past, but was not too comfortable with the wires being smooshed. The IAC angle plate was on my upgrade list back in the day for my Blue T.

In my honest opinion, the ported shroud S cover is mandatory on a street driven Buick with this turbo. Especially if you go with a journal bearing version. It helps eliminate surge under partial throttle conditions, which helps prolong the turbos' bearing life. There's virtually no noticeable difference in spool up characteristics between the 3 cover choices. Make sure you get the .63 A/R turbine housing for the quickest spoolup, as the .85 is reserved for a fully built engine, and to be honest at that point you'd want a larger turbine wheel equipped turbo. All 3 versions (TA, E, SP covers) will be a direct bolt on when you order it with the Buick 3-bolt turbine housing. Meaning, they will have the dog eared bracket for the turbo heat shield and a THDP style downpipe will bolt onto the 3-bolt turbine housing. Just remember the wastegate actuator bracket is compressor cover specific.
Hope this helps.

-Patrick-

 

[SpeedRacerX]

TA is the stock appearing compressor cover with the bolt on inlet bell. (Like your TA-49) The regular PT6262 version can be had with either a E cover or a S ported shroud cover, SP for short. The E and S covers get specific compressor cover brackets welded to the wastegate actuator. The TA uses the stock wastegate actuator bracket bolt pattern. The HD actuator you have on your TA-49 will only direct bolt to the TA6262 stock appearing version. The horsepower differences, come from the compressor cover size differences. TA cover makes the lowest number and also heats the charge temps more when the boost goes past 21psi or so. The E cover has the same 3" inlet, 2" discharge as your TA-49 turbo. But to be honest, if your plans are for 19-21psi street and 25-30psi race mode, get the ported shroud S cover and run a 4" to 3" reducer hose for the MAF pipe, and a 2.5" to 2" reducer hose for your intercooler. If you have a 3" MAF pipe, you should not need to run an IAC angle plate, but if you upgrade to a 4" MAF pipe, you typically will need one, as the IAC wires are basically smooshed by the hose and clamp. I have done this in the past, but was not too comfortable with the wires being smooshed. The IAC angle plate was on my upgrade list back in the day for my Blue T.

In my honest opinion, the ported shroud S cover is mandatory on a street driven Buick with this turbo. Especially if you go with a journal bearing version. It helps eliminate surge under partial throttle conditions, which helps prolong the turbos' bearing life. There's virtually no noticeable difference in spool up characteristics between the 3 cover choices. Make sure you get the .63 A/R turbine housing for the quickest spoolup, as the .85 is reserved for a fully built engine, and to be honest at that point you'd want a larger turbine wheel equipped turbo. All 3 versions (TA, E, SP covers) will be a direct bolt on when you order it with the Buick 3-bolt turbine housing. Meaning, they will have the dog eared bracket for the turbo heat shield and a THDP style downpipe will bolt onto the 3-bolt turbine housing. Just remember the wastegate actuator bracket is compressor cover specific.
Hope this helps.

-Patrick-

Yes. Very helpful. My car does suffer from partial throttle surge so the S cover is appealing as the surge drives me nuts. Yes, my plans are exactly what you described street vs race.
My current setup is 4" TR Customs Big Mouth Cold Air Intake > GM OE MAF > 3" MAF pipe > billet inlet bell > TA49. Discharge to > CASV4S SLIC.
I was planning on replacing the GM OE MAF with an LT1 MAF and Translator, moving to an RJC front mount with 3" pipes.
So with your suggestion, I would need a reducer to connect the 3" MAF pipe to the 4" Turbo Inlet and another reducer to connect the 2.5" discharge to the 3" Front Mount Pipe, right?
See anything wrong with what I am proposing? Is the LS1 MAF a better option than the LT1 MAF?

 

[RUQWKNF]

Yes. Very helpful. My car does suffer from partial throttle surge so the S cover is appealing as the surge drives me nuts. Yes, my plans are exactly what you described street vs race.
My current setup is 4" TR Customs Big Mouth Cold Air Intake > GM OE MAF > 3" MAF pipe > billet inlet bell > TA49. Discharge to > CASV4S SLIC.
I was planning on replacing the GM OE MAF with an LT1 MAF and Translator, moving to an RJC front mount with 3" pipes.
So with your suggestion, I would need a reducer to connect the 3" MAF pipe to the 4" Turbo Inlet and another reducer to connect the 2.5" discharge to the 3" Front Mount Pipe, right?
See anything wrong with what I am proposing? Is the LS1 MAF a better option than the LT1 MAF?

I ran a very similar setup on my last Blue T.

Big Mouth original CAI, onto a stock 3" MAF sensor, Mark's 4" MAF pipe with reducers from him, into an old school PT6776 S cover bb turbo, and an RJC FMIC. You will need a straight 4" hose from turbo to MAF pipe along with a 4" t-bolt clamp or worm style clamp, but with the stock upper plenum, stock t-body combo, this puts the IAC connector and wires smooshed against the hose and clamp. See attached pic. An IAC angle plate or GN-1's aluminum IAC block, will be the cure. TBH, the LT1 vs LS1 MAF debate is up in the air to me, as the the car I have now is the first one that I have had with a non stock MAF. So, depending on which one you go with, will determine what size reducer you need to hook to the Big Mouth CAI. The 2.5" to 3" reducer hose from turbo discharge to intercooler pipe, will come with your RJC FM IC when you order it from Jason, just need to let him know what turbo/comp cover and what t-body you have. That combo will be a ton of fun, especially if you get a PTC converter to match the combo from Dusty.

-Patrick-

 

[SpeedRacerX]

I ran a very similar setup on my last Blue T.

Big Mouth original CAI, onto a stock 3" MAF sensor, Mark's 4" MAF pipe with reducers from him, into an old school PT6776 S cover bb turbo, and an RJC FMIC. You will need a straight 4" hose from turbo to MAF pipe along with a 4" t-bolt clamp or worm style clamp, but with the stock upper plenum, stock t-body combo, this puts the IAC connector and wires smooshed against the hose and clamp. See attached pic. An IAC angle plate or GN-1's aluminum IAC block, will be the cure. TBH, the LT1 vs LS1 MAF debate is up in the air to me, as the the car I have now is the first one that I have had with a non stock MAF. So, depending on which one you go with, will determine what size reducer you need to hook to the Big Mouth CAI. The 2.5" to 3" reducer hose from turbo discharge to intercooler pipe, will come with your RJC FM IC when you order it from Jason, just need to let him know what turbo/comp cover and what t-body you have. That combo will be a ton of fun, especially if you get a PTC converter to match the combo from Dusty.

-Patrick-

Yes, trans and converter will be addressed. Also setting the table for heads, rollers and cam in the near future. Should be fun. And I'll stop there. Lol.

Fyi. I don't see any pix. Is that the photobucket bs?

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[Mr.Spool]

Need someone to provide some clarity please before I buy the wrong thing.

Here's what I know. I'm going to buy a 6262 turbo, most likely a Precision. I was told to stick with a 3" inlet and 2" outlet and a .63 AR 3-bolt like the TA49 I am replacing.

Precision offers a TA6262 CEA and a PT6262 CEA. The PT is rated for more horsepower. I assume the difference is in stock appearing or not but why the difference in horsepower rating?

I guess I could care less about stock appearing. All I want is for it to bolt right up to my 3" TH-style-DP and for the heavy duty actuator from my TA49 to work.

Should I care about stock appearing?
Will my TA49 actuator only work on the TA6262 and not on the PT6262?
Why the horsepower difference between TA and PT?
Do I retain the billet inlet bell from my TA49 for use with either the TA6262 or the PT6262? If not, what do I do?

Thanks in advance.

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How much power do you want to make and how fast do you want to go?street combo or race combo?motor build?these are the things you want to ask yourself and that will determine the strategy and price.

 

[Turbo Keith]

And ditch that stock MAF sensor and upgrade , you will never regret you did . Promise

 

[Turbo Keith]

I also have been thinking bout a 6262 but I don't know how much of a difference it will be over my TA49

 

[SpeedRacerX]

I also have been thinking bout a 6262 but I don't know how much of a difference it will be over my TA49

6262 is rated for up to 40% more horsepower. Imagine making the same power at 20# as you do today at 25#.

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[Turbo Keith]

6262 is rated for up to 40% more horsepower. Imagine making the same power at 20# as you do today at 25#.

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I don't know if its that easy , My heads have never been off the car and I don't wanna break that seal , So with what I have I don't know if upgrading the turbo will give me that gain .

 

[SpeedRacerX]

I don't know if its that easy , My heads have never been off the car and I don't wanna break that seal , So with what I have I don't know if upgrading the turbo will give me that gain .

I agree with you. This thread was about specific questions around just 1 turbo and certainly not a combo.

I'm making the move to setup a combo of turbo, injectors, chip, tuning maybe, intercooler, torque converter and getting ready for heads and cam.



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[Turbo Keith]

Your on the right track to have a Bad Azzzz car

 

[RUQWKNF]

I can tell you guys, the PT6262 makes great power and is a fantastic turbo for a goal of mid to low 11's reliably.
My friend that's here local, went to this turbo from a stocker. His car was a very low 12's 60k mile, stock engine original "87 GN when we started.
The stock turbo was on it's way out and I convinced him to go with this easy combo.

PT6262, E cover, journal bearing, .63 A/R turbine housing, HD actuator, PTE SLIC, 60# injectors, TT v5.7 chip for 93. RJC ADPP plate, RJC boost controller, RJC stock style crank pulley and a set of Kirbans' HD grey plug wires with Autolite 23's on a tight .030 gap. The car already had a Scanmaster 2.1, RJC rear motor brace, 160* t-stat, 3" THDP, 3" dump with electric cut out, Pypes 2.5" cat back, XP pump and hotwire kit, adj fp regulator, 3" MAF pipe and 9" K&N cone. The converter was left stock and the trans was built. We tuned it to run 20-21psi on regular 93 pump gas with Boostane / Torco / VP Octanium octane booster, with no knock and good O2's. Yes the spool up is not the best, but with a little tweaking of the chip, it makes for an ok traction control device. But the difference was night and day in performance. Especially when we retuned it with 116 race gas and bumped the boost to 24-25 and timing to 26*. I have no doubt this car will run in the high - mid 11's and will be a very low 11 car once he swaps the converter and get's his traction game on. In fact, he recently scored a PTC 10" lock up converter and will be installing it very soon. The car is about to get traction challenged when we swap it.

I say all of this to say, going from a TA-49, to a PT6262 will be a nice upgrade. Depending on the boost you plan on running, you should see and feel the trq & hp differences between the two. I have always thought of a TA-49 as a nice entry level, bolt on upgrade over stock, that will support a high to mid 11's combo. Some have taken it to the max and gone a lot quicker, but it can only flow so much air. IMO, if your goals are high 11's on pump gas with additive, and ll.teens with either alky and pump, or straight race gas on a stock unopened engine, the PT6262 and other companies versions, are a fantastic choice.
It will definitely feed your addiction for more power, so beware.

-Patrick-

 

[ttribejr]

I have a completely stock long block, except I put stiffer valve springs in. I have run mid 30s boost. No problems. I bet I have even hit 40 on accident before I ported the hole larger (my map sensor was pegged). e85 and no detonation. My original unopened motor still has mid 150s compression on all 6 and no h/g failures. 6262, combo in my sig.

 

[Mr.Spool]

6262 is rated for up to 40% more horsepower. Imagine making the same power at 20# as you do today at 25#.

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Not going to happen