transmission temp

Discussion in 'Transmission Talk' started by Texas gn, Jul 25, 2012.

  1. toomanymodz

    toomanymodz
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    Results of my test: The heat-sink cooler lowered my trans temp by 30 degrees. It was a very hot day today, drove about 40 miles in traffic and it only got up to about 190 instead of 220. Success! Now my transmission officially runs cooler than my engine.
     
  2. decaturforlife

    decaturforlife
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    I guess I will be buying a heat-sink cooler next!
     
  3. EVIL

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    I have a non lock up trans.

    It runs around 200 on a hot day and on the highway at 70 mph it’s 220 to 230

    I have an external cooler also.

    I’m going to order the heat-sink style cooler and put it i line after the external cooler and see if there is a difference.

    The temp sensor is mounted in the back of the trans pan.

    Non lock definitely doesn’t like the highway.

    trans is working great btw.

    D
     
  4. V6sleeper

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    Those temps seem high, how many btu's is your current trans cooler? do you run the lines through the radiator also?
     
  5. Boost231

    Boost231
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    My brothers trans temps are cooler then that just using the factory radiator and that's it. He's running a 18 blade ptc I believe
     
  6. V6sleeper

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    Yea exactly, readings from the pan over 200 degrees is way too hot fluid is starting to boil, in NY at 90 degrees ambient with a 30,000btu cooler "and" going through the radiator I rarely see over 175-180 in stop and go traffic..Dex 6 will with stand high heat a lot better then anything else in my opinion.. remains Cherry Red with no smell.
     
  7. EVIL

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    Yeah temps are high.
    At idle it stays around 175.
    city driving its around 190 to 200
    on highway its usually around 210.
    not driving hard either.
    I also have a fan on external cooler.

    Trans work mints though.

    I am having a high BLM issue also.

    I have a 160 stat and motor always ran at 167 and now it’s around 190 temp.

    could this be a side effect of my high BLM’s?

    I have been trouble shooting the BLM issue.

    D
     
  8. Turbo6inKY

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    Reviving.

    Seeing as how there's about $120 worth of Red Line D4 in my transmission, I don't want to drop the pan to tap it for the temp sender.

    Does anybody know of an adapter that can go into the cooler line path that doesn't block the fluid path through the adapter?

    They make these: http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/6...MIzav309nr1gIVwSSGCh3-qwjeEAQYBSABEgIBE_D_BwE

    But, screwing a temperature sender into that fitting results in the temperature probe actually blocking the fluid path.

    Any ideas?
     
  9. Turbo6inKY

    Turbo6inKY
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  10. dynoman

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  11. Turbo6inKY

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  12. Pronto

    Pronto
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    I read the books and followed the instructions.

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  13. dank GN

    dank GN
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    always something

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    Why don’t you drain the fluid into a clean container then drill and tap the pan install the temp sensor then simply poor the transmission through a filter of some sort and back into the trans ? You don’t have to toss it out if it’s good fluid
     
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  14. dank GN

    dank GN
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    always something

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    Also drill the pan for a drain plug if you don’t have one already
     
  15. Turbo6inKY

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    That's a giant mess just waiting to happen. Giant mess. Huge. Epic.

    Plus the pan currently doesn't leak. I'm not going to disturb that gasket unless I absolutely have to.
     
  16. The Granny

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    you could suck out a good amount from the dipstick hole using a vacuum pump or turkey Baster type of thing. it'd be a little tedious depending on the size of your reservoir but would eliminate the mess you'd make dropping the pan


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  17. Turbo6inKY

    Turbo6inKY
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    I have a cast pan with a drain. I'm more worried about spilling while putting the fluid back in and disturbing the gasket than the drain process.

    But no worries, my Autometer manifold gets here tonight, then I can figure out the fittings and get it installed on the line from the pump to the cooler.
     
  18. Turbo6inKY

    Turbo6inKY
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    Ok, here's my solution.

    Now, on my car, have -6 AN transmission cooler lines running up to the front of the car because I added an extra cooler, and there's a bit of rubber hose in the front connecting the radiator cooler to the external cooler, with the braided AN stuff running to/from the transmission.

    So, this setup hooks into that. If you have the steel lines, you can just cut/section them, then use the compression fittings included with the manifold (things with the plastic caps on them) to splice the manifold into the fluid path.

    Here's the parts list:
    Autometer 2286 Manifold
    Russell 66040 AN-6 male to 1/4" NPT male fitting
    Russell 661580 bushing, 1/2" NPT male to 3/8" NPT female
    Russell 661570 bushing, 3/8" NPT male to 1/4" NPT female
    Generic 1/4" NPT threaded sensor
    1/4" NPT male to 3/8" ID hose barb adapter
    1/4" stainless steel bolts, washers, and lock washers

    The two bushings are because the temp sensor I had was 1/4" NPT, so I had to step down the 1/2" NPT hole in the manifold. Adjust the bushing adapters to whatever you've got.

    When you hang the assembled manifold, make sure the sensor is DOWN. If you mount it sensor up, there will be an air bubble trapped around the sensor and your readings will be poop. Use sealant. I used PTFE paste. Stuff works great.

    IMG_0705.jpg
    Here's the finished product. The line from the transmission to the radiator cooler inlet comes in the AN-6 on the right side, and the rubber line going to the cooler connection goes on the hose barb.
    IMG_0706.jpg
     

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