TR6 No Start

[Silver Ghost]

I installed a new wastespark TR6 in my car, today. The car always started fine before, but with the TR6, it would not start due to a Code 13. Eventually, the cam sensor was set by rotating the engine 1.5 inches ATDC. The cam sensor was turned CW until the cam light turned off, then CCW until the light lit. However, when the car was started, the engine turned over and there was a huge, muffler splitting backfire. All subsequent attempts to start the car failed as the car cranked but would not start. No trouble codes were set. So, what should I look for? Cam sensor phasing or a new hobby?

 

[dank GN]

Set it with the light on the tr6 and throw that caspers cam cap on the shelf. Go past TDC 1.25" then set the sensor with the cam light in the box .

 

[Silver Ghost]

Set it with the light on the tr6 and throw that caspers cam cap on the shelf. Go past TDC 1.25" then set the sensor with the cam light in the box .

Sorry for the confusion. The TR6 was set by using the cam light in the TR6 box. However, I used 1.5" past TDC. Thanks for the feedback. I'll give 1.25 a try.

 

[TTA976]

Did you turn the switch to wastespark? Sounds to me like it's on sequential mode.

 

[Heskahoka]

Did you turn the switch to wastespark? Sounds to me like it's on sequential mode.

This is what happened to me. Installed the TR6 and it would not run, or ran bad with backfires. Had to put the jumper in Wastespark mode like TTA976 suggested. It is not shipped this way by default. Ran like a dream after that.

 

[69RSCLONE]

I can't remember if I had a problem after installing my tr6 2 years ago, but I did cause a cam position code after using the tr6 to set it. Never had a problem before but thought "what the heck, it's there, why not use it". First I got the check engine light, so I retarded it a little, I think??. Then it would backfire and stall at the end of the track at closed throttle. Eventually got it working right, but can't remember how. I think I did it running setting it around 2800 rpm on the tach.

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[Silver Ghost]

Wastespark Mode 4 is the only switch on. Cam phase is set by using the TR6 box with the engine on the compression stroke at 25 degrees after TDC. It cranks fine, sounds like it should start, then weakly fires and will not start. All lights seem to be sequencing in the box. No trouble codes are set. Any other suggestions?

 

[Heskahoka]

Double check plug wires?

 

[69RSCLONE]

Make sure you have a good ground on the black wire to the coil harness.

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[Silver Ghost]

Make sure you have a good ground on the black wire to the coil harness.

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Geez, plug wires were checked and checked again. The black coil harness wire was bolted to an intake stud and the new module bracket was, also, grounded to the firewall. Cam sensor was triple checked by moving it CW (no light) then CCW until the TR6 cam light lit. Still no start just weak pops. Thanks

 

[69RSCLONE]

Sorry to hear. Sure it's something simple. Nothing ever goes smoothly on these cars. But the tr6 is worth the headache. Once it's working correct you never have to worry about it again.

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[TurboBob]

is it still setting a TR6 trouble code?

did you paint the bracket? the mounting bracket is the ground for the unit. I have seen a couple cases where it was not getting a good ground thru the mount.

Bob

 

[Silver Ghost]

is it still setting a TR6 trouble code?

did you paint the bracket? the mounting bracket is the ground for the unit. I have seen a couple cases where it was not getting a good ground thru the mount.

Bob

There are no trouble codes. The bracket mounting the TR6 is the Cruz black colored aluminum version. How do you recommend grounding this bracket? Also, does the coil pack have to be grounded at the bolt hole with metal strip? Currently, my tr6 mounting bracket and harness are grounded to an intake manifold bolt hole that does not pass through to the black. Thanks for all the support!

 

[robertf]

While I have'nt started mine yet, I have the same setup, so I took my dremel and cleaned the black anodizing off the bottom of the bracket where the bolts go through for a good solid ground to the intake. I actually ran a seperate ground from the battery to the intake also.

 

[GNRick]

Why not extend the tr6 ground wire to the front of the block where the battery is grounded? Then put some loom over the wire for the factory look.

 

[achalmersman]

Also, does the coil pack have to be grounded at the bolt hole with metal strip?

No but this is commonly told to people wrong. As a matter of fact I helped a memver troubleshoot an issue and even Cruz has told them the TR6 ground wire goes to that bolt on the coil. It doesnt. That ground wire goes to an engine ground such as you describe. The nuts that have the captured stars help dig in and get you a good engine ground on the bracket. Although I have a Cruze bracket I have not installed it but plan to grind down bare where the bolts go. I actually proved the the grounded coil bolt to somebody by shooting a video of my car running with the coil hanging in the air, measuring voltage drop, and continuity. The coil pack is grounded through the harness provided the bracket and the harness ground are solid engine grounds. Another misunderstood concept is people seem to think the firewall is where engine stuff gets grounded. That is not true. On a frame bodied car the engine / belhousing is the main ground and the body (firewall) is grounded via that braided strap that goes from the bellhousing to the firewall. Not the otherway around. The firewall does not provide the ground to the engine. Things are different on uni-body cars.


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[Silver Ghost]

Why not extend the tr6 ground wire to the front of the block where the battery is grounded? Then put some loom over the wire for the factory look.

As soon as time permits, the black anodizing will be removed from the mounting bracket bolt holes. Then a ground will be run from the bottom of the bracket (stud) to the block. I'll report back with the results. Thanks, again ,,,

 

[robertf]

Bob Bailey told me today that the anodizing acts as a insulator. So clean it up good.

 

[Silver Ghost]

Bob Bailey told me today that the anodizing acts as a insulator. So clean it up good.

So, tonight my son-in-law and I removed the black anodizing from all ground points of the mounting bracket. A drill bit was used to remove the anodizing from inside all five mounting bracket holes. The black bracket was, also, sanded on the bottom of the three ignition module bolt holes. The two other holes used to bolt the bracket to the intake were, also, sanded on the top and bottom. Star washer nuts were used at all points. A braided ground strap was run from the bottom of the bracket (ign mod stud) to the block at the bellhousing. The harness ground was bolted to the intake. Finally, the car was started and ... it fired right up! It idled smoothly despite temps in the 30's. Once warm, the engine was revved a little and screamed a lot, "Where's the boost." Thanks, everyone!!!