TR factory wiring and General info thread including Concert Sound 2


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stereo; Delco 1.5 din ( roughly 3.5'' x 7'').

I use a right angle heavy duty pic,and slowly start to unsnap the bezel around the back edge carefully not to fully unsnap at first (ive found that if you fully unsnap one side before the other,the bezel binds making it harder to remove). remove bezel, you will find four 7mm screws securing the stereo. slide out stereo,unplug harness by pushing on tabs.dont worry on re-installing,the plugs are "keyed" so you cannot plug them in wrong.also, this is a good time to check the radio cavity on both right and left sides for lost clips.i use a magnet to remove/find as they are hard to see.

wiring info;

black two pin plug;
orange = memory/battery
brown = park lamps (illumination)

black four pin plug; main power.
yellow = ignition +
black = ground -
grey = illumination dimmer
pink = power ant control (if equipted)

white/clear four pin plug; front speakers.
tan = LF+
grey = LF-
lt green = RF+
dk green = RF-

blue four pin plug; rear speakers.
brown = LR+
yellow = LR-
dk blue = RR+
lt blue = RR-

Concert Sound 2 harness and info;

CS2 includes the following in additon to above;
1) usually an eq upgraded radio.
2) 5 1/4'' door speakers 10ohm.
3) 3 1/2'' dash speakers changed to 10ohm also.
4) harness added for door speakers and special "Y" harness to wire all front speakers parallel at the stereo. this makes 5ohm load per channel at stereo.
note; CS2 harness is color coded the same as dash speakers,but the plug is blue like the rear speakers. if repairing harness,check the color code of the wiring,not the plug color,so the plugs are assembled correctally at the "Y" harness.

dash speaker removal/info.
1) remove 9 #15 torq screws at the top of panel. (when reinstalling,i leave somewhat loose so dash can expand /contract with tempurature helping eliminate the possiblity of cracking).
2)remove two 7mm or phillips screws. 3 1/2 4ohm non-CS, 10ohm CS2speaker.

rear deck speakers.
1) held in by a brackets.unsnap from retainer,other side will slide out of body. unplug harness. 4x10 size. 6x9 can be added with special adaptors.

CS2 speakers;
remove lower door panels and the speakers are mounted to door with special plasic housings. four 7mm or 1/4' screws. 5 1/4 10 ohm

speaker upgrade notes;

1) nothing special on the rears ( 4ohm) ,just pay attention to the polarity(dark colors are positive).if one speaker is wiried wrong,you will loose most of the bass.

2) upgrading the front speakers, non-CS2;
same as #1. observe the front color code for correct wiring.

3) CS2 speaker replacement;
heres where it gets tricky. most if not all aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm. one set on a delco or aftermarket stereo is perfect. but two sets wiried in the factory CS2 harness parallel will put a 2ohm load on each front channel of the radio which sooner or later will harm/destroy the radio.
if you replace the CS2 speakers, you need to rewire the fronts in series (raising the ohm load to 8 ohms) in order to be safe and not over heat ,burn up the stereo.i will make a diagram of how i usually do this as soon as i can and post it up.


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trouble shooting;

1) radio wont come on.
check RDO (10a red)ign, and cig/dome (20a yellow) battery/memory fuses in fuse block. still not on, pull stereo verifying battery,ign,ground at the rear of radio. if all good,replace radio.also, Ive seen numerous power buttons (if equip)go bad.if you choose,you can connect the two red wires off the switch together,bypassing the button.

2) no sound; check speaker outputs (at stereo)for short to ground,incorrect ohm load, shorted bad speakers and/or wiring.if you don't have an ohm meter dig volt meter,try plugging up one speaker harness up at a time to see if theres a short.

3) speakers "rattling", sounding bad. the Gm speakers then and now are paper cone.(CS2 door speakers were poly coated) and over time they deteriorate.replace.

4) my power ant wont go up.
check for remote out at stereo (pink+, or single black plug).
check dome/cig fuse.
check relay above the computer behind the glove box.

5) when replacing OEM equipment i use;

dash kit; Best kits # bkgmk434 this kit mounts flush,looks very good.
harness; Best kits harness adapter # bha16771
4x10 to 6x9 adapters; AI (American international) # sa-41069-gm. closely follow directions,there is a left and right adaptor...

3 1/2 dash speaker; any good name brand. choose a speaker that has a low profile tweet,or mount speaker from under the opening for extra clearance.

4x10; pioneer still makes the best one here IMHO. or add 6x9 with magnet size for clearance of the trunk helper tension rods.

5 1/4; good name brand,watch magnet size. go with a smaller wattage if using radio power.lower wattage stereos will drive high sensitivity speakers better (don't buy high power speakers and drive them with radio power,you'll be disappointed unless you plan on adding an amp later).

Evans Ward

Love those LC2/ Y56 cars!

Thank you for posting this as it will be very helpful to me when I install the Sony CD player I bought from a member here. This is it here:

It comes with the harness too so that nothing needs modification (supposedly). Hope it will be pug n play for my system which has concert sound (6 speakers). Gary- after looking at it in the pic, is everything pretty much there for my easy install? Haven't received it yet with payment enroute to member here.

Evans Ward

Love those LC2/ Y56 cars!
the stereo needs to "see" 4ohm or higher. what radio is in now? playing ok?

Stock radio/ cassette player with 5 band EQ is presently in car and playing fine. Polk speakers were a huge upgrade over stock speakers. Just wanted the CD upgrade. In theory, it should sound better with the Sony CD unit.


I'm about to install new front speakers in my CS2 equipped GN. I'm no audiophile, I'm not going to have an amp or anything special. Just an aftermarket stereo (it's an old Blaupunkt I installed sometime in the mid-late 90's) and the speakers. For the most part, if reasonably clear sound comes out, and I can hear the music at normal listening levels, then I'm happy :)

From what I've read it sounds like I need to revise the front speaker wiring to go from parallel to series. I made up a sketch that I've attached here. Can someone look at it and tell me if this is the proper way to wire things up? I thought I should run this past you experts before I start cutting wires.





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Your drawing is correct but I had my daughter make up this drawing to make it a bit clearer for everyone. It doesn't matter which speaker you use in series for positive and negative.



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custom CS2 Y harness can be built so you can replace one set or both sets of fronts and still be able to run off any stereos' internal amp.......
got any advice.... i installed a new radio beacuse the stock one dident work beacuse it kept blowing the 20 amp fuse i got the new one all hooked up and it wont turn on and every time i try and put a new fuse in it blows right away....


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Staff member
got any advice.... i installed a new radio beacuse the stock one dident work beacuse it kept blowing the 20 amp fuse i got the new one all hooked up and it wont turn on and every time i try and put a new fuse in it blows right away....
the 20a fuse is for the memory circuit,and it powers alot more items.check;

1)cig lighter
2)dome light circuit
3)hood and trunk lights/wiring
Reading this and trying to follow along with the schematics in my troglodyte brain...

With a basic stereo harness, should I rewire/ redirect the connections from my aftermarket JVC radio to the car's harness? When I installed it, I just matched the wires location for location (i.e., color to color)... it seems I should have taken the opportunity to rewire the front correctly.

So when I have the pigtails laid out from each respective harness, that's where I need to start splicing and bypassing so I end up with the correct CS2 layout as pictured above?

Or just pony up some $ for a custom harness? :)