Thoughts on this kill switch

Too complicated. I went with the simple Caspers kill mystery fuse wire/fuse version under the hood.
 
Here's what I use one wire to the ECM interrupted. Multiple poles on the relay for redundancy.
The fourth pole on the relay locks the relay on via the ground connection so if you throw the switch mistakenly whilst driving you won't kill the car. Resets to kill mode when the IGN is off and the switch is in the off position.
B5 is the purple/wht wire to be interrupted at the ECM.
4PDT 12 volt relays are out there with solderable or screw terminal bases.
AntiTheftCrankInterrupt2.jpg
 
Here's what I use one wire to the ECM interrupted. Multiple poles on the relay for redundancy.
The fourth pole on the relay locks the relay on via the ground connection so if you throw the switch mistakenly whilst driving you won't kill the car. Resets to kill mode when the IGN is off and the switch is in the off position.
B5 is the purple/wht wire to be interrupted at the ECM.
4PDT 12 volt relays are out there with solderable or screw terminal bases.
View attachment 388866
What??? Want something simple
 
I use the mystery theft deterrent & also the touch & start from Kirba(the P.O.S. Castle now).

Easy install on both. Or if you’re interested you can do the poor man’s pass key. Also pretty simple.

 
You can hide a switch to interrupt the factory fuel pump feed, which now triggers the hot wire relay.
The car will crank, but not start showing itself as a problem with the car.
Maybe put 2 switches in series in 2 separate locations so both have to be turned on so the car runs. That way if a thief finds one switch and it still won’t start he’ll run.

A momentary switch in series with the starter key switch would be an automatic arming system. The momentary switch would have to be held for the key switch to work, that way the switch doesn’t have to be shut off every time you shut the car off to provide protection.
 
I wouldent want to keep disconnecting the Battery with that Switch, Everytime you start the Car the Chip will have to learn all over again.If you have Eric’s Chip and have Adjustments made and no Tune Saver those adjustments are gone as well it goes right back to Default.
 
I wouldent want to keep disconnecting the Battery with that Switch, Everytime you start the Car the Chip will have to learn all over again.If you have Eric’s Chip and have Adjustments made and no Tune Saver those adjustments are gone as well it goes right back to Default.
" Push it again and the battery feed is disconnected except for our auxiliary “hot” feed to the clock or computer or other items requiring power for memory".
 
My cars have a different deterrent...
Certainly not something to be published on the web.
Enough to say it works, and the perp may be a lot worse for the wear. ;)
 
It's one $10 relay and one wire to interrupt on the ECM, and of course a kill switch located anywhere you want. One wire to an IGN source and a ground wire and an inline fuse, same as you would need for that kit but would be lower current wiring and much smaller in size.
A lot simpler than cutting the battery cable and routing it to that solenoid under the hood, a lot cheaper too.
You could actually interrupt the one B5 ECM wire with a simple switch but there would be no latching or redundancy, mines a daily driver and that switch and relay has been used thousands of times over the last 18 years it's been installed no failures.
You could also interrupt the purple wire from the IGN switch to the starter solenoid like the factory alarm does, with an external kill switch, no crank no run. Someone would have to get under the car to jump the terminals at the solenoid to get it to crank.
Killing the fuel pump hot wire relay was a good idea already mentioned.
 
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