Those With Rear Coilovers, What Does Your GN Like Setting Wise and Drag Radial Tire Psi For Street Hooking?

GNVYUS 1

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, figured we'd create a starting point for us STREET cars with REAR coilovers and drag radials for best hooking and what did and didn't work.

Coilover = Ridetech
Outcome = Spinning at moderate launch
Tire = 275/60/15 MTSS
Tire Psi = 30psi
Spring Rate = 150lb
Shock Clicks = 0 out of 24 (shop started here)
Rear Swaybar = Helwig on #3

I'm trying 22psi tire pressure and 4 clicks firm next. I have a Fiberglass trunk and partial bumper support so I probably need the shocks softer than most.
 

Mr.Spool

Well-Known Member
You can't.
Overall weight
Weight distribution.
And a host of other factors determine how the suspension works.
 

Mr.Spool

Well-Known Member
A draggy or stopwatch the 60ft with video will be very valuable as you can actual see your gains or losses.
 

GNVYUS 1

Well-Known Member
I got the car back after getting my Autodrags polished and they set the tires at 30psi. I remembered to check after the spinning recently, they're normally 22psi for the street.

I'll get all 4 corners weighed after the body shop and new Spoolfool carbon bumpers are on it.

I planned on getting a Draggy, they seemed useful and I'm not going to the track really anytime soon.

I can try to film it after I get more time with the new combo.

Thanks for the tips
 

TurboWh1

Active Member
I run drag radials at 20psi on street, I will echo the others on scaling car if you can. It will tell you alot. Unfortunately you are somewhat committed unless you get radical on addressing the weight on each wheel. Here is how mine started off ... This is with me in car. As you can tell, need to shift more weight on the right rear. Tweaking my HR bar got me alot closer.
 

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dynoman

Well-Known Member
I run drag radials at 20psi on street, I will echo the others on scaling car if you can. It will tell you alot. Unfortunately you are somewhat committed unless you get radical on addressing the weight on each wheel. Here is how mine started off ... This is with me in car. As you can tell, need to shift more weight on the right rear. Tweaking my HR bar got me alot closer.
Wow , your numbers are almost the same as mine , LF 1036 RF 1039 LR 845 RR 744
 

GNVYUS 1

Well-Known Member
In the case that I also am heavier in the driver rear, do I make that shock a couple clicks firmer to compensate for the extra weight during the squat?
 

Mr.Spool

Well-Known Member
In the case that I also am heavier in the driver rear, do I make that shock a couple clicks firmer to compensate for the extra weight during the squat?
That depends on the weight distribution.
Car has to be scaled.
Radial cars are setup different than slick cars.
You must be in the car to set it up also
 

GNVYUS 1

Well-Known Member
Oh you're seeing the drivers weight in those numbers, that's the big difference.

I'll scale it both without and me in it. I'm sure it's under 3k without me in it but I'll report back.

Radial G body cars, they tend to need softer settings maybe?
 

dynoman

Well-Known Member
I'll scale it both without and me in it. I'm sure it's under 3k without me in it but I'll report back.
Weigh it like it's going to be driven ......... with you in it . lol
Mine was weighed with 200lbs in the front seat because I couldn't be there when the suspension work was done .
 

GNVYUS 1

Well-Known Member
My bad, a tad under 3300lbs is what I think the car weighs not 3k.

I hear yall, I'll also get in it for the suspension setup part on the scales.
 
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