TH400 build-pictures

87buickracer

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2004
Here is a few pictures of my 400 build.It has the alto clutches/kolene steels,intermediate power pack,36 element sprag/drum,boost regulator/spring with shift kit.I will be running a vaccum bypass on the modulator for turbo/supercharged engines.and a b+m mega shifter.may change to reverse valvebody in the future,but for now going with street/strip shift kit for street use.

note-The vaccum bypass eliminates the need for a mechanical modulator and at 29.95 is a good deal.this piece is made by transgo.just check with your local dealer if you want to purchase one for your automatic 400.
 

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400 build

more pictures
 

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I just checked your sig. Sorry man. Don't want to put my nose in where it's not wanted.
 
Would you like some technical tips on your assembly?

Sure,no problem..We can all learn different tips on how to get better
performance out of our cars..I'm always open for suggestions and new ideas..
please do share,thanks..
 
Sorry. I don't know what's wrong with me. I just can't resist trying to help if I can.

Let me start by asking about the reverse band lugs in the case. It's hard to tell on the front one in the picture. Both should be level with the part of the case closest to the top of the lugs. Sometimes they can have a tendancy to work their way into the case. I know it's probably close to level, but if I can run my finger across the case and feel that a lug is protruding, I'll hammer it back flush. I've seen them so far into the case that it caused the rear band to drag on the carrier.
 
Sorry. I don't know what's wrong with me. I just can't resist trying to help if I can.

Let me start by asking about the reverse band lugs in the case. It's hard to tell on the front one in the picture. Both should be level with the part of the case closest to the top of the lugs. Sometimes they can have a tendancy to work their way into the case. I know it's probably close to level, but if I can run my finger across the case and feel that a lug is protruding, I'll hammer it back flush. I've seen them so far into the case that it caused the rear band to drag on the carrier.

good point,They seem to be pretty level,but I will double check to be sure..
 
I noticed you have a HD snap ring for the Int. pack, but I don't like where the gap is. I stick to the OEM suggestion to put the snap ring gap 180 degrees from where you have it, or across from the Int. band case anchor. Keeping a solid section of snap ring across that wide gap of no retaining lugs will take some load off of the case snap ring retaining lugs at each end of the open gap. Those are the lugs that like to start breaking away first in high line, HD applications. Do all you can to help them out.
 
What HP level are you building this for? What WOT in drive line pressure are you planning on using?
 
I would like to add a few suggestions!!

Get a TH 350 pump bearing and pump bearing shims in .010,.015.020.

Knock the case bushing up slightly so the pump bearing and pump shim have something to pilot off of.

Remove and discard the 3 tab case washer and the 4 tab TW on the output shaft.

Usually the .015 shim sets the endplay right where it needs to be.

The pump shim and bearing go down where the 3 tab washer use to be.

Now you have rollerized the output shaft.



(This is just my opinion, Flame suit is on)

I would suggest leaving the intermediate snap ring where it is in the pix. The reason why:: If you put the openings of the snap ring opposite of the intermediate band anchor lug, you effectly turn the snap ring into 2 half moon shapes that don't have the lug engagement compared to the way you have it. (tomato/tamato)

This is for OTTO: The snap ring in the pix is a Torqueflight 8 rear clutch snap ring in either .088 or .106 variation. They are easier to source.

Whatever you do ,and this will sound totally stuipd and counter productive; Run a wave steel in the intermediate clutch pack. It will be easier on the snap ring, pressure plate,and case lugs and will have no ill effect on the durability of the clutch pack.

Mike.
 
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Donny post away or should make a thread on how to properly build the 400 :biggrin:

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com


that would be a great idea..step by step, include how to make your own tools so you dont have to buy such expensive special ones, list of kit or part numbers, with pics along the way. also the tips needed for the turbo cars and anything needed to install, i think just a new mount and dif. driveshaft..my 2004r done blown up and rather just go with the 400 if I can build..
 
put an axode final drive sun gear bearng on your forward clutch hub.now your rollerized and have less front end play:D
 
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