th-400 and thrust bearing?

Hello

I am new to this forum, due to desperation. I am having a thrust bearing problem with a 455 and Turbo 400 Buick engine. I have fixed/changed many things, but the engine still takes the thrust bearing out everytime we start it. Heard this was the forum for help.
 
heres the deal.the hole is usually around .300 ",tap it to 3/8 coarse and install a 3/8 by 1/4 " allen head set screw and drill a hole through it to .155" to .175".with a stock unshimmed pr spring this will give 50 to 55 psi cooler pressure hot .period.

I dont want to hijack, but how are you doing on your TH400 book?
 
Keep adding to it,dont know when.Frustrating the printer as well.Keep making changes.I am finally getting to a place where I am learning to seperate my proffessional time from my personal time.My personal time was usually bombarded with transmission related research that was under the proffessional time category.I have other interests that are enjoyable so you wont be seeing a barrage of new books ,techs or products from here unless they are completed in/or during my proffessional time.The company is doing well and this year has been great from a business standpoint.I am physically and mentally burnt out from projects that have and havent been completed and from completed ones that have been duplicated by others, with no respect forthe value of my r and d.
 
Bump because this is a good thread that I had problems finding, and since I just bought a th400 for my car.

Not sure if I should be worried at all because I have an automatic valve body still, the guy I bought it from said it has the b&m transgo shift kit/rebuild.
 
Trans brake or not, the thrust can be wiped by using the footbrake and stalling the converter.
 
Trans brake or not, the thrust can be wiped by using the footbrake and stalling the converter.
I don't know anything about transmissions, so thats why I posted, but I'm going to find a local tranny shop to check pressures and do the converter feed restriction. Also going to pick up a converter that definitely has an anti-balooning plate.
 
I don't know anything about transmissions, so thats why I posted, but I'm going to find a local tranny shop to check pressures and do the converter feed restriction. Also going to pick up a converter that definitely has an anti-balooning plate.

Good idea! I had the same issues w/ the 400 and my stage engine. Fortunately, Don Wang had posted info on the restrictor, and my trans guy did it, when he built the unit, prior to first install...
 
Anyone interested in a quick and easy way to keep converter charge in check with a TH400 installed behind a 3.8 Buick V6 can view the final page of the RPFMTB instructions link provided. http://www.ckperformance.com/INSTRUCTIONS
Thanks for your post.

For someone that hasnt worked on a transmission before, is this something i can do on my own in my garage at home?

Is it hard to get the pump apart with basic habd tools and do the mod and then reassemble everything?

Will i need new seals for anything?
 
If you bring the trans to a shop it should cost you around 50.00 to have it done. I dont recommend doing it at home without the right tools on hand however the choice is yours. There are complete pump rebuilds on the tech logs of my website that will aid you if you attempt it at home.
 
If you bring the trans to a shop it should cost you around 50.00 to have it done. I dont recommend doing it at home without the right tools on hand however the choice is yours. There are complete pump rebuilds on the tech logs of my website that will aid you if you attempt it at home.
Thanks so much, ill probably bring it to a shop, the one locally i already contacted i told him about it, and i asked about a tranny dyno but he doesnt have one.

Another one local to me i spoke with the guy and he claimed to not know of it as an issue and that ford c4 trannys have that problem. He thought i got bad info...
 
If you bring the trans to a shop it should cost you around 50.00 to have it done. I dont recommend doing it at home without the right tools on hand however the choice is yours. There are complete pump rebuilds on the tech logs of my website that will aid you if you attempt it at home.
So i picked up the 5/16-18 tap and a 5/16 - 5/16 set screw, which your directions call for a 3/16 long set screw. So i tried another hardware store and was only able to find a 5/16- 1/4 set screw.

Will it be ok to use either of them? I just need to make sure the set screw is sitting in a little? I imagine i should be fine with either but id rather be safe than sorry.

Thx
 
If you bring the trans to a shop it should cost you around 50.00 to have it done. I dont recommend doing it at home without the right tools on hand however the choice is yours. There are complete pump rebuilds on the tech logs of my website that will aid you if you attempt it at home.
Hey chris im gonna try to taie my transmission to my local shop to get the converter feed restrictor mod done, if you could answer my question so i know i have the right set screw.

So i picked up the 5/16-18 tap and a 5/16 - 5/16 set screw, which your directions call for a 3/16 long set screw. So i tried another hardware store and was only able to find a 5/16- 1/4 set screw.

Will it be ok to use either of them? I just need to make sure the set screw is sitting in a little? I imagine i should be fine with either but id rather be safe than sorry.

Thx
 
The length won't matter as long as it sits below the surface and that hole is deep.
AG.
 
The length won't matter as long as it sits below the surface and that hole is deep.
AG.
Welp, dropped off the transmission with CK Performances instructions, and the tap and drill bit, and set screw.

He is also going to go through the transmission for me and clean the case for $250 out the door new seals and gasket. Would have been $150 to do the mod and also check the first parts that come out of the case, but figured since it was a greasy transmission I would like for it to have no leaks lol and make sure it has no problems before install.
 
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