You will be working it hard to get there. MFS 6766 is worth quite a bit at that point
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TA49/TE44 real data
- Thread starter bison
- Start date
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Just bought the 6265 I think I'll have to settle for whatever I can get out of it Power wise. My wife would kill me if I bought another turbo.
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I have a TE44 with stock engine(cam,head,etc), stock DP and MAF with these upgrades: TBP converter, GN1 Slic, 42lbs injectors with TT chip
the trans shift slow I will rebuilt it this winter, i'm pretty sure I will gain at least 0.1sec on the 1/4, so far my best is 12.16@108mph at 23psi
I'm not sure what would be the most beneficial change, a 3" down pipe or a better MAF, I don't want to raise the boost too much, my goal is to run steady 11.70 if it's possible, I do not want to hack this but I've read all the post and still don't know what to do, I think a new MAF would be the best change??
the trans shift slow I will rebuilt it this winter, i'm pretty sure I will gain at least 0.1sec on the 1/4, so far my best is 12.16@108mph at 23psi
I'm not sure what would be the most beneficial change, a 3" down pipe or a better MAF, I don't want to raise the boost too much, my goal is to run steady 11.70 if it's possible, I do not want to hack this but I've read all the post and still don't know what to do, I think a new MAF would be the best change??
Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
Alky...
Raising manifold pressure will net more than everything else if the tune is right
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I'm using race fuel and I do not want to install an alky kit, I use Fuse ignitor 116 mixed with Shell 91 with great result
achalmersman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2012
Stock MAF is plenty adequate for 11.70s assuming its working correctly. As Bison stated just turn the boost up and adjust the tune accordingly. Only 23 lbs of boost is conservative on 116 race gas right? I've never used race gas before. You already have what you need to run 11.70s
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116 mixed with shell vpower91, I mixed it to 105
I thought 23lbs with a te44 on a stock block would be the max
25 with Alky. I ran an 11.88 stock long block, converter, 42.5# injectors and Alky TT chip. With a better intercooler I probably could've gotten to 11.70. If my car did weigh 3800 lbs w driver I probably would've gotten there with just stock IC.
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SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
It slowed mine down and knocked.
Backed off to 114 and it loved that.
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Plenty of threads around the internet explaining it. It's come up on speed talk before. Same reason your regular daily driver car that runs best on regular 87 octane slows down on higher octane
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Burn rate of the fuel. If a car is tuned for 87 and you put 93 in it or 100, it takes longer to burn the higher octane in a car tuned for 87, therefore the location of peak pressure moves and you don't get optimal mechanical advantage on the power stroke. This may vary, but I believe you want LPP to be 14* after TDC, that's where you get optimal mechanical advantage.
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
Thanks for taking the time to answer.
Maybe I can sell my 6265, it has about 1000 miles on it and it hasn't been pushed passed 18psi, gauge, so far. I said I wanted a MFS 6766 before my build started and I was talked out of it.
EDIT: As a matter of fact turbo has only been pushed to 18psi once and 10psi maybe 5 or 6 times, just doing regular driving. Engine builder said not to drive the car too hard for the first 2k miles so the rings seal properly.
Stock ecu and internal wastegate better be safe than sorry and go with less turbo. Aftermarket ecu and good external wastegate the sky is more of less the limit.
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