TA Performance Race Headers cross over headaches

TurboBuRick

Moderator
Staff member
The problem with stock headers, the flange's are too thin. And they crack easy.

IMO T/A SS race headers are far better. Even the stock replacements are better. The material (flanges and pipes) are much thicker.

I ran stock for years but I got a deal on set of new T/A race headers I could not refuse. So I figured what the hell. I am pretty happy with them. The hardest part I remember when installing was the crossover pipe. It's not easy to get the slip joint tight enough for the v band flanges to meet up with the headers. Not to mention having them clocked the right way. If those aren't close to perfect and you weld up the slip joint, there is going to be problems.

BobbyBuick: Are you sure those are authentic T/A SS headers and not a set of knock off's?
 
Last edited:

Toby_Goodmk

Test Fit officianto
These are my latest test findings. I crafted a pvc cap with a pressure gauge to attach directly to my downpipe. I regulated my air compressor to 7 psi. I attached shop air directly to the cap. I have positive V band contact. I have new steel shim RJC gaskets. The V band clamps are new.

I am not trying at all to trash this design, I am posting my testing results as i like to post about the problem, the testing involved, then if I find additional issues or progress, or hell even fault of my own, I post it. This is a forum of knowledge, not blame. So here are the results.

Next, I guess Ill need to be asking for some help from some people that are more close to TA performance and how the problem can be fixed without me paying additional out of pocket expenses. All basis are covered on the customers end. Enjoy. Ill post the video next

20170115_152006.jpg
20170115_152006.jpg
20170115_151959.jpg
20170115_151941.jpg
20170115_151931.jpg
 

Gene Van Horn

Active Member
Thats awsome, im sure many more people including myself have the same leaks and dont even know it. This is my next test, thanks for the inspiration to get it done
 

Boost231

What's An Intercooler
Staff member
If that's only at 7psi imagine what it is at WOT. wow.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 

Toby_Goodmk

Test Fit officianto
If that's only at 7psi imagine what it is at WOT. wow.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

exactly Brent. imagine what my car would dyno this past fall if I could have built more boost. This must have been the reason I could not build more than 19lb
 

Boost231

What's An Intercooler
Staff member
Glad to see you are getting this figured out. I know several will be checking their cars now

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 

rodruckus

Taking out the Euro trash
Jiminney jillickers, Radioactive Man! Those GEE M Racing headers keep looking better and better. Thanks, for the updated info and video.
 

Toby_Goodmk

Test Fit officianto
Glad to see you are getting this figured out. I know several will be checking their cars now

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk


Thanks, next we will see how the issue will be handled. They need to do "something" to make it right.
 
Last edited:

TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
I agree 100 percent.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

Grudgingly, me too. I have/had some boost issues (self inflicted by hogging out the turbo puck hole too much) and thought it was fixed via an external waste gate install. It is definitely much better but seeing this makes me wonder.......

Now I'll have to set up my DP up to replicate this test.

Thanks for the visual, Toby_Goodmk
 

Toby_Goodmk

Test Fit officianto
Grudgingly, me too. I have/had some boost issues (self inflicted by hogging out the turbo puck hole too much) and thought it was fixed via an external waste gate install. It is definitely much better but seeing this makes me wonder.......

Now I'll have to set up my DP up to replicate this test.

Thanks for the visual, Toby_Goodmk


I would love to know or see everyones results

I used a 2.5 to 3" reducer, bought a 2" PVC cap at home depot for $1.69. Put a airhose nipple in it, and i happened to have a gauge that I paid 5$ for and put it in as well for shitts and giggles. Got 10$ in the equipment??
 

blackazz

Not a Gn
Glad to see my Lil idea helped you find your problem hope it helps others.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
 

Royal-T-Ltd

Well-Known Member
I really can't see ANY slip fit exhaust pieces being airtight... about 18 years ago I had my ATR crossover welded.... but I've been watching these threads on TA headers and am pretty shocked at some of the quality/(lack of) control... those rusted out pieces I saw were just crazy... I've had my ATRs for almost 20 years...and I put a lot of miles on them-nothing even close to rusting out.

Sorry for lack of substance in my comments, just been watching the thread unfold for a while.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

BEATAV8

The Engine Whisperer
I would not expect the slip joint to be air tight. There's bound to be some level of leakage even on a "properly" sealed up set. Gauging whether or not the leak rate is acceptable might be a challenge.... certainly shouldn't be audible on a running car.

The gasketed joints I would expect to be pretty well leak free though. Using clean steel shim gaskets, maybe expect some very very low leak rate and consider it OK.
 

Fat Nat

Well-Known Member
Slip joint should always be welded. Like stated in an earlier post put the headers on then vbands. Tighten everything then tack the joint remove the x over tig the joint and put it back together. We've been doing this since atr was around the only right way to do it.
 

turbo89

Well-Known Member
I would not expect the slip joint to be air tight. There's bound to be some level of leakage even on a "properly" sealed up set. Gauging whether or not the leak rate is acceptable might be a challenge.... certainly shouldn't be audible on a running car.

The gasketed joints I would expect to be pretty well leak free though. Using clean steel shim gaskets, maybe expect some very very low leak rate and consider it OK.


Steve this is a good point .. also something to think about is the expansion rate of 304 stainless .. as soon as it gets to operating temps it expands greatly .. I bet many of the leaks will actually seal ... which makes the test a bit tricky as far as evaluating results . ...

The problem here really is the way the vbands were done ( design itself is poor) , then you have the lack of fitment compounding that. ..
As metioned above the best way to solve this issue is to get a competent fabricator involved , cut the vbands off and put a new set on . .. that will at least solve the vband leak issue .. IMHO if you are stuck on aftermarket headers vs stockers.. I would just sell these off and get a nice used set of ATR's ... OR pony up for a custom setup that will run you another $12-1500 .. at least they will be done the right way and are a lifetime buy and will be leak free. While your at that you can have the header made for a newer style turbo and gain significantly more power than you will see with any header upgrade :)
 
Top