Suspension Rebuild

QWK GN

Member
Joined
May 26, 2001
I am planning to rebuild the suspension in my 86 GN. The parts I'm thinking of getting are, Polygraphite front end kit(bushings,ball joints,etc) and KYB gas-a-just shocks from PST. www.p-s-t.com. and Suspension Techniques 1 inch lowering springs from Summit. I don't have alot of money ,so I need to choose my parts carefully.I drive my car alot and it's mainly a street car.I 'd like some input on these parts or any of the other choices I could make.

Thanks-John O
 
i just dropped my car off today and should have it back by the end of the week. im having the pst super front end rebuild kit put on along with new coils and bilstein shocks,new center link and hes gonna tighten up the steering box a bit. also having polygraphite bushings installed in the rear. i let you know how it is when i get it back. cant wait
 
I don't wanna burst anyones bubble, but, I don't recommend poly bushings for every day street driving, for a couple of reasons. for a while they were they only players in town, so we used them. I've used poly since back in the days when tires were made of rocks and to use poly bushings you had to burn the rubber out of the old bushing shells and press in the new poly bushings.

Here are my reasons against poly.
1. They still squeak... even with grease fittings. You'll be greasing them every week or so.

2. They still bind. Thats were the squeak comes from. The bushing is SUPPOSED to rotate around the inner sleeve and outer shell. Doesn't do it exactly.

3. They shrink over time. Time? about two - three years. Thats short in car terms.

4. When you install poly bushings in a control arm, the arm should rotate freely when the end nuts are tightened to factory specs. They don't. The closer to factory, the less they move. If left loose to rotate freely, the inner bushing rotates on the cross shaft resulting in metal to metal contact.

5. When installed in the rear, with stiff ( performance) shocks, it's like riding in a truck. Things like speed bumps or anything with a raised surfaced, like the bump pulling into a parking lot, the bushings don't allow the rear to move in the normal arc that it is supposed to. It feels like the ass end is trying to launch you outta the seat.

I use and highly recommend Global West's Delrin bushings. They are warrantied for life. They have uppers and lowers for the front. They cost more than poly, but they do what they are supposed to do, and that is, free up the arm movement. For the rears, I use their top of the line lower arm with Delrin bushing in one end and a bearing in the other. When using a stock spring, front or rear, a Bilstien or KYB shock works best, especially with rubber bushings. I find they work best for softer suspensions because they are valved rather stiff. This is the application they were made for, factory. With stiffer than stock springs and bushings I use Edelbrocks IAS shock. They work real good for stiffer than stock suspensions. Or you could step up to QA1's

On my car I use, GW's Delrin bushings top and bottom in the front. Spherical end links for the sway bar to control arm. Poly bushings for the sway bar to frame mounts and Baer's bump steer kit. GW's front spring from their negative roll kit with 3/4 of a coil cut. Out back, again GW's spring, no cutting, their Delrin/bearing lower control arm, Edelbrock's double ajustable upper with spherical bushing and a spherical bushing in the housing. Hotchkis support bars from the lower front to the upper front of the rear control arms, and the cross supports behind the rear seat. For shocks I use QA1's all the way around. #3 in the rear and # 6 in the front.
 
Thanks for the replies, I have the poly bushings in the car now and they do squeak alot. The PST graphite are not susposed to squeak(at least thats what PST says).I was looking at the Edelbrock IAS shocks.I never knew about how you match the springs to the shocks,So I'll have to go over my options on that one again.I'd like to get some more info on the Gobal West bushings. do you have a web site for their products.

Thanks-John O
 
Originally posted by Glen
On my car I use, GW's Delrin bushings top and bottom in the front. Spherical end links for the sway bar to control arm. Poly bushings for the sway bar to frame mounts and Baer's bump steer kit. GW's front spring from their negative roll kit with 3/4 of a coil cut. Out back, again GW's spring, no cutting, their Delrin/bearing lower control arm, Edelbrock's double ajustable upper with spherical bushing and a spherical bushing in the housing. Hotchkis support bars from the lower front to the upper front of the rear control arms, and the cross supports behind the rear seat. For shocks I use QA1's all the way around. #3 in the rear and # 6 in the front.

Hey Glen, where did you get the spherical swaybar endlinks? And do you happen to have a part number on the Baer bump steer kit you're using? I called them about that and they said they don't make a kit for our cars. :confused:

I gotta agree with your comments about the Global West stuff. I've got all the same GW parts as you and they really make for a tight ride, complete control without binding or harshness. Really helps the car feel glued down. I do get more noise from the rear of the car though, and I think it's mainly from that solid bearing in the GW rear control arms, but I can live with that.
 
I did my front end on the ttype in December. I used Napa Premium front end parts, 10K miles later, still in good condition and still feels new, hth.
 
I installed Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings and Bilstein shocks on my '87. I love them. I've autocrossed the car, and I can say I was very happy with the results. I've been through three events on large courses, and I can say I have not experienced any situations that would indicate the bushings are binding (i.e. snap oversteer or odd shudders as it goes over bumps). They do squeak, I don't care.

The Bilstein shocks are top quality, and I believe they're actually cheaper than the Edelbrocks.

I wouldn't go with an adjustable shock unless you're going to race the car and want/need the adjustability. I race the car, and I don't want the hassel. I've got enough going on between the seat and the steering wheel, I don't need to have to worry about my shocks too.
 
The squeak IS the binding. Snap your fingers, the sound is the friction between the fingers, same as the poly bushing and the shell. Now, apply grease to your fingers and do it again. Thats the noise you should here from your bushings, NOTHING. Thats what you get with the Delrin bushing. I don't sell'em, or get any commision from them, but after using both, I know which action I prefer.
 
Glen,
Did you use your stock frount control arm with the Del-A Lum bushings.I have a spare set of stock ones I was going to use for the rebuild.Also will I need the upper offset shafts or can I reuse the stock ones? Did you upgrade your sway bars?.I have a hollow TA sway bar from the bone yard I wanted to use. Are Global West's springs stock height or are they drop springs.Which shocks do you recommend with these springs,KYB or Edelbrock?
I thought I was going to get away cheap,I guess I'll be putting in some OT.I'll be getting a set of GTA rims too.

Thanks for all the replies
John O
 
No, I'm using the 'B' body spindle but their bushing fit stock control arms. You can use your stock cross shaft. The offset is used for cars with some mileage on them. 'G' bodies tend to bow when they get old, kind'a like us. That is why they have offset shafts, but it doesn't hurt to use them. It gives you some extra room to play when doing the alignment. Using the GW springs lowers the car about an inch. I cut another 3/4 of a coil off to lower it some more, about 2". With the Negative Roll System the GW use's, they recommend a smaller than stock bar for the front, none in the back. I use a stock 1 1/4 front bar and no rear bar. With stock springs I like Bilstiens or KYB. For 'sport' or stiffer springs I like Edelbrock for a non-adjustable, QA1 for adjustable. I have found with a stiff spring than stock,driving around town and hiway the Bilstiens and KYB are valved to stiff and you feel evrything in the road. With the Edelbrocks, with their valveing it is a smoother ride and when pressed works as good as the others. BTW, I use the ROH Snyper wheel from Group A Auto Trends in a 9 X 17 on all four corners. Zero fitment problems and priced right.:D
 
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