string of bad luck


Jack's Smirking Revenge
Earlier this winter (as much as florida can have a winter)
I began my msd 50 lb inj swap...the swap went fine right up until I went to attach the fuel return line to the FPR...nope x-threaded

thats not a cheap part (even used)

so i get the part and realize its going to be (and was) a bitch to swap out....

i got done with that and though i was ready to retune the car (with new chips)

however when i went to start the car it would high idle for 10 seconds and then die...over and over....after it got warm and went closed it would run, but rough.....and would throw code 44 (lean) i first started thinking o2 sensor, possible IAC....o2 seemed fine with high x counts, and IAC #'s were suspect so i replaced it today....

same result, high idle, never got a chance to reset IAC as the car wouldnt first....once it was running without dying i was attempting to make sure i had NO vac leaks

in doing so i decided to tap the maf....HOLY MOLY!!! car stumbles.....well ok then...i guess my 134k mile maf finally died on me.....

in the mean time i attempted to reset the iac and tps despite the maf issues as the car was finally running normally at idle, except the code.....

whoops, tps sensor cracked on me!!!! dammit!!!!!

so im done for the nite, have all but decided to go maf translator (non plus) with lt1 maf (for monetary reasons) and going to stick with the chips i just bought vice going extender for the time being.....

also need to pick up a tps and am probably going to "hone" it as I have always had a hard time setting mine....

sorry so long, just ranting i guess on the breakability of these cars with age....


Lemur with a long Femur
Sorry to hear about your bad luck. Things can only get better for you from here.

FYI, there should be no reason for you to have to file the tps slots for more range of motion, set it at idle at somewhere less than or at .44 running, and you should be fine as long as throttle blade is opening fully. PE (power enrichment is based on several factors, and as long as you see more than say 4 volts at full throttle, you should be ok...) Some chips set the threshold even lower..

Car won't run any different with 4.4 versus 4.7 volts , etc... as long as blade is fully opened.

Make sure you have fixed vaccum leaks, as they are a common cause of rough idle/blm issues on our cars. Do a search for more info.

Good Luck



Jack's Smirking Revenge
i am 99.8% sure i have no vac leaks....before the inj swap the car was running very strong on blue tops, i did change the pcv but its good to go...i have seen how the car runs with the pcv fully out of the hole...and the car doesnt run different when i pull the vac line off the that (and me looking at every vac line i can find) leads me to believe this is not caused by or made worse by some vac leak


The Nightstalker
Don't feel bad Dan....the T is throwing a tantrum as well. Started stumbling/hesitating on throttle tip-in this afternoon, then coded a 44 plus the BLMs pegged at 160. Looked all over the place for a vacuum leak...nothing. Took it out for a quick test drive and MAF works fine, cross counts are cycling fine, but BLMs still peg at 160 idling. Get back to the house and the brake pedal is guessed it, the power monster is acting up. Oh well.....doing the brake conversion tomorrow as well as replace every freaking vacuum line I can find. Guess I should expect this from a car with 165K


My cars suck
I'd lick a camels ass to have your "problems". After you've swapped your engine out 3 times in 1000 miles for other peoples inability to do their job, come back and complain! :D