marcus jul
Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2015
Now that Mr. Monroe is retired, who is rebuilding stock throttle bodies?
stock throttle body
- Thread starter marcus jul
- Start date
TurboWh1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2002
Gotta do it yourself 
Dear ole Dad and I just put alot of time and effort into fixing the shaft play on my stock TB. It took custom made bushings with correct tolerances to address the wore out TB housing. If you have ever smoke tested your Turbo Buick... Many times the TB is the source of your vacuum leak.
Dear ole Dad and I just put alot of time and effort into fixing the shaft play on my stock TB. It took custom made bushings with correct tolerances to address the wore out TB housing. If you have ever smoke tested your Turbo Buick... Many times the TB is the source of your vacuum leak.Attachments
SLIC V6
Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2020
That's great to hear, nothing like doing some bonding with Dad over Turbo Buick car repairs!!!
I love to hear this, Dad passing down knowledge to his children!!!
ENJOY!!!
TIMINATOR
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2020
I prefer larger TBs for better air distribution in the manifold.
The performance gain may be minimal, but bigger TBs tend to have less spark knock even if they don't show more power. Everyone has their own opinion on this, so I am not going to open that can of worms here.
BUT, why not remove the upper and take out the EGR boss, that helps flow and distribution. Or, take a few evenings if you need to, and grind out the lower part of the EGR port flush with the floor too, but you will need a good bunch of blue paper shop towels down the ports, (cover or remove and cover the up pipe too) and a friend (dad) run a shop vac to collect the chips as you grind. You may not have the patience to remove the entire lower port, but whatever you do remove helps the distribution.
There are some very seriously aggressive burrs available at professional abrasive outlets. You'll want one, I have also seen guys use a Harbor Freight air body saw to remove some material before grinding. If you are careful, cut the lower EGR port away from the front of the manifold, and thin around of its bottom up about a quarter of an inch, and break it off using leverage from a screwdriver, or crescent wrench. That saves a LOT of grinding! Plug the EGR port with paper towels below where you are grinding.
DONT FORGET TO VACUUM WELL, AND REMOVE THE PAPER TOWELS BEFORE YOU REASSEMBLE IT! I prefer to remove the EGR valve and blow the port from the manifold out with shop air. Then either reattach the EGR valve or install a plate to seal the vacuum. A BB in the EGR valve vacuum line will keep it from opening, but you didn't hear it from me....
You also should disable the EGR if you do any grinding on the lower, because that occasionally can cause light throttle knock. EGR does not operate at any advanced, lower vacuum, or boost levels, or shouldn't.
I have a few stock TBs around here, Ill check and see if they have good shaft seal, and post if you want to go that way.
And while you have the upper off, an RJC Power/distribution plate is an inexpensive, but well worth addition to any F.I.Turbo Regal!
TIMINATOR
The performance gain may be minimal, but bigger TBs tend to have less spark knock even if they don't show more power. Everyone has their own opinion on this, so I am not going to open that can of worms here.
BUT, why not remove the upper and take out the EGR boss, that helps flow and distribution. Or, take a few evenings if you need to, and grind out the lower part of the EGR port flush with the floor too, but you will need a good bunch of blue paper shop towels down the ports, (cover or remove and cover the up pipe too) and a friend (dad) run a shop vac to collect the chips as you grind. You may not have the patience to remove the entire lower port, but whatever you do remove helps the distribution.
There are some very seriously aggressive burrs available at professional abrasive outlets. You'll want one, I have also seen guys use a Harbor Freight air body saw to remove some material before grinding. If you are careful, cut the lower EGR port away from the front of the manifold, and thin around of its bottom up about a quarter of an inch, and break it off using leverage from a screwdriver, or crescent wrench. That saves a LOT of grinding! Plug the EGR port with paper towels below where you are grinding.
DONT FORGET TO VACUUM WELL, AND REMOVE THE PAPER TOWELS BEFORE YOU REASSEMBLE IT! I prefer to remove the EGR valve and blow the port from the manifold out with shop air. Then either reattach the EGR valve or install a plate to seal the vacuum. A BB in the EGR valve vacuum line will keep it from opening, but you didn't hear it from me....
You also should disable the EGR if you do any grinding on the lower, because that occasionally can cause light throttle knock. EGR does not operate at any advanced, lower vacuum, or boost levels, or shouldn't.
I have a few stock TBs around here, Ill check and see if they have good shaft seal, and post if you want to go that way.
And while you have the upper off, an RJC Power/distribution plate is an inexpensive, but well worth addition to any F.I.Turbo Regal!
TIMINATOR
Last edited:
TireFryer
The New Kid
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2001
Sad to hear
I have his 62mm throttle body and doghouse… great stuff…
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2018
wonder what seals steve used....that is the key to puzzle....all that is really needed is new seals....
TurboWh1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2002
Steve used same seals gbody sells. Issue with those seals.... They are roughly .025 too large on the OD of seal. The bore needs to be opened up or 1 of 2 issues may occur. Seal is destroyed during installation or you may split/crack the TB housing. In regards to the seal only replacement....The repairer should check the end play for wear, if you can move the shaft back and forth, that needs addressed otherwise it will destroy your new seals in a short period of time. I looked at about 6 stockers and they all needed bushings prior to seal replacement to get the desired outcome. If you can find a low mileage piece, that would be way to go.
TIMINATOR
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2020
No rocket science here.
Any bearing supply house should be able to supply bronze bushings for the shaft, then ream the TB to fit them (in a Bridgeport mill), the same mill and a boring head could fly cut the housing bore to the larger size for the seal.
Find a retired machinist with time.
I have done many thru the years, its a straight foward job, but I currently am about 3-4 months behind in my customer's engine builds...
The set up and indexing take more time than the actual machining, and you only get one shot to get it right.
One off will be more $$$ than several at once.
Machine shops sell time. Call around. Somebody needs the work.
TIMINATOR
Any bearing supply house should be able to supply bronze bushings for the shaft, then ream the TB to fit them (in a Bridgeport mill), the same mill and a boring head could fly cut the housing bore to the larger size for the seal.
Find a retired machinist with time.
I have done many thru the years, its a straight foward job, but I currently am about 3-4 months behind in my customer's engine builds...
The set up and indexing take more time than the actual machining, and you only get one shot to get it right.
One off will be more $$$ than several at once.
Machine shops sell time. Call around. Somebody needs the work.
TIMINATOR
TurboWh1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2002
Exactly, that is how we repaired it. Having a Bridgeport in the garage makes it nice
But it is still a time consuming job. Machine shops bill on hourly rate. Most folks will by an Accufab due to cost and figure out it needs repair eventually as well. I tried that route. Time is money but better to know it's right. I can't believe the improvement after installing on the car, and it's just a stock piece. I have a 62mm up next. It needs the same bushing repair as the stocker but wanted to test it out on a piece I wasn't worried about scraping.
TIMINATOR
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2020
Accufab lasts longer than stock due to a better, higher quality body, and shaft, and better machine practices. And, if you want to get picky, a larger TBody has more airflow, requiring less shaft rotation, per CFM, so it will last longer in normal driving!
The factory has the bean counters/ and planned obsolensce teams looking at everything.
Scrapping has two "p"s, don't confuse the folks! LOL!
TIMINATOR
The factory has the bean counters/ and planned obsolensce teams looking at everything.
Scrapping has two "p"s, don't confuse the folks! LOL!
TIMINATOR
T- Type Tim
Vice Chairman
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2001
Same.....without the doghouse.....Sad to hear
TurboWh1
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2002
Good catch.... Spelling is NOT my forte.
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2018
