stator support shaft play (video)

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
Ok now, what do you say to going a little bit deeper to check the forward and direct clutches. You won't need any special tools, but the center support retaining ring could be challenging to remove depending on how it is positioned. The valve body will need to come out. Take pictures, especially the locations of the check balls.
Is this trans supposed to have dual fed direct clutches?
 

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
Dual fed direct clutches? I have no idea. When I had the pan off to drill for a temp sensor, I looked over as much of the clutches that could be seen and they looked ok, but I know that doesn't say much. It may be a good idea to go farther into this trans since the time is right. Will be good peace of mind and experience with the 2004r. The trans that's in the car now is a freshly smoked 570 mile 2004r built by a reputable builder. Not sure what went wrong but the forward clutches are cooked for sure. Reverse is fine.
 

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
Reading up on the dual feed mod, I would guess that Lonnie already did this on the trans since it's a stage II build with trans brake. Is there any way to tell once I get into the direct clutches? I see that the drum has to be upgraded as the stocker won't live under the higher pressures(is that what's going on...or is it the same pressure but just an increase in fluid flow?). Interesting mod and looks pretty simple to do. Might be a good idea to do this on the smoked 570 mile trans when I get around to opening it up.
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
Is there any way to tell once I get into the direct clutches? I see that the drum has to be upgraded as the stocker won't live under the higher pressures(is that what's going on...or is it the same pressure but just an increase in fluid?
The center support is the biggest tell tail sign. There are provisions/grooves for 3 sealing rings on the center support. The middle ring will be removed. When you dual feed, you are applying the same pressure to more square inches/surface area of the direct apply piston. It's not necessary, but it would be nice to know what you have.
 

Chevyforce

New Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Wouldn't it be even quicker to tell by the center support bolts? If dual fed then the one closest to the rooster comb will be plugged.
 

gibbstroy

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2018
No doubt! After digging into it, seems this was a timebomb that was close to going off. Found that the 2 overrun clutches look to be smoked or have had some serious heat in them, so I'll be replacing them as well as getting a new overrun drum. Really neat to get into this thing and see how complex it is. Whoever is responsible for the automatic transmission as we know today...is a freakin genius!
Man I dont know what to say. I wouldn't have sold it to you know this was going on. Luckily it wasn't too bad, but Im glad it didnt fail on the track. I have all the receipts ready to send too you. I found one for the trans cooler you were interested in, and some good cam data.
 

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
Man I dont know what to say. I wouldn't have sold it to you know this was going on. Luckily it wasn't too bad, but Im glad it didnt fail on the track. I have all the receipts ready to send too you. I found one for the trans cooler you were interested in, and some good cam data.

Not a problem at all. This was just one of those things, you know? Glad to have caught it before getting everything in the car and bolted down. That would have been a disappointment, to get a new combo up and running only to have it break a short time after. Yeah, still interested in upgrading the trans cooler. Kinda thinking about running another one in line since my current one is already nicely mounted.
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
Wouldn't it be even quicker to tell by the center support bolts?
if it is dual fed, the drivers side bolt will not allow fluid to move through the center of it. The bore down the center of the bolt will either be welded shut or the bore down the center of the drivers side center support retaining bolt will have a check ball hammered into it to stop oil flow.
The center support bolts are accessed by removing the valve body.
 
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