stator support shaft play (video)

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
This trans was in a 9 second car and is a stage 2 from Extreme Automatics. Seems like an unusual amount of play, but wanted to see what y'all thought.
 

TexasT

Texas, Where are you from
Joined
Sep 10, 2002
I would definitely be pulling that pump out and seeing why the bolts are loose and what else might be wrong.
I ended up putting new bolts in when I did mine as per the ck manual. That stator support should NOT move.

 

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
Alright, I'll pull it out and see what's going on. Anything in particular to look for(other than loose bolts)? This is the first 2004R I'll be digging into...only other trans I've messed with was a full rebuild on a Ford C6.

Also has some in and out movement as well. Didn't catch that in the video.
 

gibbstroy

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2018
Hmmm I never noticed any symptoms that would have suggested any issues like that. As Chuck mentioned before, give Lonnie a call, Ive spoken to him a couple of times recently about trading it for a TH400.
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
Anything in particular to look for(other than loose bolts)?
It has probably galled the back of the pump and the stator support bore in the back half of the pump. After removing the stator support, look to see if there is any distortion with cracks at the back wall of the back half of the pump. This would be evidence that someone used a flexplate that was too thick and drove the pump rotor into the back of the pump cavity. You'll need to take the two halves apart and remove the rings, vanes, and rotor to inspect the back wall of the pump cavity.
 

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
It has probably galled the back of the pump and the stator support bore in the back half of the pump. After removing the stator support, look to see if there is any distortion with cracks at the back wall of the back half of the pump. This would be evidence that someone used a flexplate that was too thick and drove the pump rotor into the back of the pump cavity. You'll need to take the two halves apart and remove the rings, vanes, and rotor to inspect the back wall of the pump cavity.

Thanks for this. Reading up on the process of replacing the stator support, it looks like everything needs to be put on a lathe to make sure the support is true once pressed in. I don't have the equipment or experience to do this, though I'd like to learn. Also noticed that the flexplate looks to be thicker than the stock plate. Maybe the converter pads to flexplate spacing was too little? 3/16 is the max, right?
I'm thinking that it'd just be a better idea to buy a new pump that's already assembled. Also thinking that it might be a better idea(as Chuck suggested) to send the trans back to Lonnie to have him go through it just to be sure.
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
Thanks for this. Reading up on the process of replacing the stator support, it looks like everything needs to be put on a lathe to make sure the support is true once pressed in. I don't have the equipment or experience to do this, though I'd like to learn. Also noticed that the flexplate looks to be thicker than the stock plate. Maybe the converter pads to flexplate spacing was too little? 3/16 is the max, right?
I'm thinking that it'd just be a better idea to buy a new pump that's already assembled. Also thinking that it might be a better idea(as Chuck suggested) to send the trans back to Lonnie to have him go through it just to be sure.
Didn't the guy you bought it from post in this thread saying that there were no symptoms or abnormalities with this trans when it was in his car. If this is true, you won't need to take the trans apart. You do not have to put this in a lathe. If the back of the pump wall is not gouged or cracked meaning the bolts simply came loose, you simply need a new stator support and back half of the pump and you'll want to use some thread locker on the stator support bolts and you could install new vane, but that is probably not necessary.
 

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
Didn't the guy you bought it from post in this thread saying that there were no symptoms or abnormalities with this trans when it was in his car. If this is true, you won't need to take the trans apart. You do not have to put this in a lathe. If the back of the pump wall is not gouged or cracked meaning the bolts simply came loose, you simply need a new stator support and back half of the pump and you'll want to use some thread locker on the stator support bolts and you could install new vane, but that is probably not necessary.

Yes, he said it operated just fine. The trans fluid looked and smelled just fine, so I don't have any reason to believe otherwise. OTOH, it was operating just fine with this stator support being loose and on the verge of failure. What else might be on the verge of failing? Just figured that it might be a good idea to have Lonnie go through it just to be sure. I sure would like to fix this myself though. Decisions decisions.
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
I sure would like to fix this myself though. Decisions decisions.
It's not very complicated and the stator being a little bit loose doesn't effect anything else in your trans. You're very fortunate to have found it before it got too loose.
 

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
Got the pump out and heres the carnage. The pic showing the bolts is exactly how it came out...they backed out quite a bit and contacted that drum(what part is that?). I'm not seeing any remnants of locktite on those bolts. The backhalf of the pump body is cracked as shown. The filter looked fine. Don't see any metal. No scoring on the stator support. Think it can be reused? The little dowel was out and laying directly below it(can see it in the pic)
 

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Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
Got the pump out and heres the carnage. The pic showing the bolts is exactly how it came out...they backed out quite a bit and contacted that drum(what part is that?). I'm not seeing any remnants of locktite on those bolts. The backhalf of the pump body is cracked as shown. The filter looked fine. Don't see any metal. No scoring on the stator support. Think it can be reused? The little dowel was out and laying directly below it(can see it in the pic)
That's looser than it looked and now you've seen the damage for yourself. Now, let's see what the pump cavity looks like.
 

Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
No scoring on the stator support. Think it can be reused?
I'd get a new one and you'll need a new housing on your overdrive overrun drum assembly or the whole assembly because of the scratches caused by the heads of those screws. Before you do anything you need to look at the pump cavity. If it's all gouged up, you have an issue with the flexplate. So far it looks like the screws just came loose.
 

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
I removed the vane and 10 paddles and everything is smooth and looks good. On the back half of the housing, the crack is barely visible from this side so if it was worse, would that have caused damage to the vane assembly? One of those metal rings sits on the surface with the crack. Glad it didn't open up more.
 

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Ttype6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
I removed the vane and 10 paddles and everything is smooth and looks good. On the back half of the housing, the crack is barely visible from this side so if it was worse, would that have caused damage to the vane assembly? One of those metal rings sits on the surface with the crack. Glad it didn't open up more.
This means that the screws simply came loose.
 

longbedGTs

high on gas fumes
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
U dodged a huge bullet....

No doubt! After digging into it, seems this was a timebomb that was close to going off. Found that the 2 overrun clutches look to be smoked or have had some serious heat in them, so I'll be replacing them as well as getting a new overrun drum. Really neat to get into this thing and see how complex it is. Whoever is responsible for the automatic transmission as we know today...is a freakin genius!
 
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