Stalling issue, no restart

Tori

Active Member
How about the cam sensor? What cap? Was it set properly? Cam sensor times the injectors I think. Mine would do the same thing. Run for 30 mins. Start popping. Backfire (blew the exhaust apart) and die. Changed the led Casper’s cap for a stock one and boom. Issue fixed. Bob Bailey warned me about it and I didn’t listen. Wish I did lol
What CAP are you talking about ?

I'm finally making time for this POS again and going thru all the posts to refresh my brain.

Also, i cut the old fuel filter apart with a tubing cutter and there was NOTHING in it. (nothing clogging it)
 

TireFryer

The new kid..
What CAP are you talking about ?

I'm finally making time for this POS again and going thru all the posts to refresh my brain.

Also, i cut the old fuel filter apart with a tubing cutter and there was NOTHING in it. (nothing clogging it)
The cam sensor cap. If you have an adjustable Casper’s one I would ditch it and use the oem one.
 

Tori

Active Member
The cam sensor cap. If you have an adjustable Casper’s one I would ditch it and use the oem one.
ahhh..... ok. thank you. I have an OEM type.

That said,... started the car today (frist time since my last post (like 2+ months) let it idle for about 20 mins and it just shut off. Fuel pressure was good. Restarted normally,... and idled for another 40 mins flawlessly. Got brave and drove it around for approx 35 miles, a mix of hwy and in town. Ran perfect. *rollseyes
 

HotAirWH1

Active Member
ahhh..... ok. thank you. I have an OEM type.

That said,... started the car today (frist time since my last post (like 2+ months) let it idle for about 20 mins and it just shut off. Fuel pressure was good. Restarted normally,... and idled for another 40 mins flawlessly. Got brave and drove it around for approx 35 miles, a mix of hwy and in town. Ran perfect. *rollseyes
Interestingly watching your thread on how your car is acting. My car is starting to have the same symptoms. Keep posting on what you find out.
 

ITSAV6

It's my Granny's car!
I had similar issues with coil pack/module. I run an Autozone module and a new coil pack. Traded for a “known good” GM module/coil so the 2 step would work. Idled better but would randomly shut off while driving after warming up. Would act like it ran out of gas. After cooling off a few minutes it would fire off and run great. Swapped back no issues. Ohmed out that coil pack and it was way low on one and other 2 were just below range. Think it was overheating module.
 

dynoman

Well-Known Member
Tori , I had a problem with my car randomly shutting off when driving or skip when racing . I was logging with a Powerlogger when it happen one time and noticed that I lost all inputs to the stock ECU for a split second . I pulled the ECU and checked connections . I found corrosion on a couple of pins on the large connectors . I was able to clean up the ECU pins but the female connectors were junk , so I ordered both connectors with pigtails from Caspers and the car runs perfect now . I doesn't cost anything to check .
 

TurboTGuy

Gray Beard Member
I had the same issue with my first GN way back in the early 90's.

Turned out to be a bad crank sensor. It didn't like to get hot.
 

HotAirWH1

Active Member
Interestingly watching your thread on how your car is acting. My car is starting to have the same symptoms. Keep posting on what you find out.

Tori - I have a Casper CCCI Sensor Check Diagnostic Test Tool when hooked up it indicated both Cam & Crank were good. The car would idle good, but at higher rpm's would loose power, stutter and backfire. I've been chasing this problem for two weeks. Took TurboTGuys advice and started looking at the crank sensor which is a new unit installed in 2018. I loosened the 5/16" bolt holding the crank sensor and cut a strip off of a plastic "Berry's Bagels Gift Card" - micro metered out at 0.029". Used it to reset the gap.
Took the car out and drove it around the city for about 20 - 25 minutes without a hiccup. Got on it a couple times, no problems. I hope I don't jinx myself :eek: .
Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll keep you posted if the problem resurfaces.
 

TireFryer

The new kid..
Proper crank sensor position is critical. I had a similar problem last year. “Regapped” the sensor and it helped my problem. Second problem was adjustable cam cap. Properly set crank sensor and properly set OEM cam cap and voila. Good running car
 

Rodney87GN

Well-Known Member
Next time you have it running bump the orange fusible link wire coming off the battery terminal that powers the ECM and see if it dies out. They develop an internal connection break from bouncing for 35 years (ask me how I know).
Were you able to verify this? I had the same exact problem as you with car randomly dying. Turns out the orange fusible link was broken.


Tori , I had a problem with my car randomly shutting off when driving or skip when racing . I was logging with a Powerlogger when it happen one time and noticed that I lost all inputs to the stock ECU for a split second . I pulled the ECU and checked connections . I found corrosion on a couple of pins on the large connectors . I was able to clean up the ECU pins but the female connectors were junk , so I ordered both connectors with pigtails from Caspers and the car runs perfect now . I doesn't cost anything to check .
I've had this happen as well....I could give the kick panel where the ECM is a little bump with my hand and the car would die. I replaced the original pigtail with the Caspers pigtail and all is good.

I would also double check your grounds.

As our cars get older you will find that the factory wiring harness becomes more problematic.
 

Tori

Active Member
Tori - I have a Casper CCCI Sensor Check Diagnostic Test Tool when hooked up it indicated both Cam & Crank were good. The car would idle good, but at higher rpm's would loose power, stutter and backfire. I've been chasing this problem for two weeks. Took TurboTGuys advice and started looking at the crank sensor which is a new unit installed in 2018. I loosened the 5/16" bolt holding the crank sensor and cut a strip off of a plastic "Berry's Bagels Gift Card" - micro metered out at 0.029". Used it to reset the gap.
Took the car out and drove it around the city for about 20 - 25 minutes without a hiccup. Got on it a couple times, no problems. I hope I don't jinx myself :eek: .
Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll keep you posted if the problem resurfaces.
This is going to sound stupid, and i know the responses i'll get,...... but i don't see how the crank sensor can be adjusted. There is so little room between the fins of the sensor and the tone ring, i could not move it any direction without it touching the tone ring.
 

TireFryer

The new kid..
This is going to sound stupid, and i know the responses i'll get,...... but i don't see how the crank sensor can be adjusted. There is so little room between the fins of the sensor and the tone ring, i could not move it any direction without it touching the tone ring.
I believe there should be .025 between the trigger wheel and the fins on the sensor. I believe I just loosened the bolts and stuck a feeler gauge in there. Closed the gap, tightened the bolts and took the gauge out. Spun the motor over to make sure it didn’t contact at all.
 

HotAirWH1

Active Member
This is going to sound stupid, and i know the responses i'll get,...... but i don't see how the crank sensor can be adjusted. There is so little room between the fins of the sensor and the tone ring, i could not move it any direction without it touching the tone ring.
I just had to loosen the 5/16" bolt at the bottom of the sensor assembly. This will allow the sensor to slide back and forth. Stick the 0.025 feeler gauge ( I used the Gift Card cut in a long strip, it bends easily so you can push it all the way through between the trigger wheel and the fins) then push the sensor tight to the gauge. While pushing the sensor, tighten down the 5/16" bolt. As TireFryer mentioned. You may have to loosen the upper and lower 1/2" bolts to rotate the sensor assembly slightly. The Assembly's upper bolt hole is slotted. Use a breaker bar with a 1-1/8" socket on the crank nut to rotate the tone ring to check for any contacts per TireFryer. Remember to remove the breaker bar & socket before starting the engine..... o_O :eek:
Pic's are for a demonstration.
 

Attachments

  • Crank Sensor and Plastic Gauge 029.jpg
    Crank Sensor and Plastic Gauge 029.jpg
    80.3 KB · Views: 16
  • Crank Sensor and Plastic Gauge Adjustment 1.jpg
    Crank Sensor and Plastic Gauge Adjustment 1.jpg
    65.9 KB · Views: 15
  • Crank Sensor Assembly.jpg
    Crank Sensor Assembly.jpg
    69.7 KB · Views: 16

Tori

Active Member
another update.... been driving the car at every opportunity.... i've put 54 miles on it before it acted up. This time i happened to have the fuel pressure gauge still connected and noticed the FP at 40 psi. at idle. Could this be my problem ? Over-fueling ?
I've got an adjust able on now, but obviously if it's malfunctioning, it'll need replaced. Suggestions on what and where to buy ?
 

Tori

Active Member
Went out to the car 10 minutes after shutting of off, started up and idled correctly, took throttle and FP was back to 36 where it is normally set.
 
Top