Stage 2 TT street car

My friend with a 9.0 second LS swap T just converted to manual brakes this year to save weight over the hydroboost system he had. I believe it's the Wilwood manual brake mc. He did say it's not as aggressive hydroboost buts stops him at 150mph.
how about the rear end it has to be a detriot locker? no LSD or maybe a 9"
IBBY
 
He went with a full blown 9" with all the buzzers and whistles.
 
Now this is genius:
What fuel cell would the twin Racetronix pumps fit right into? I saw NRE use the same setup and it makes good sense if E85 is not readily available. Sure wouldn't need to deal with uneven methanol distribution or a knock sensor.

Mike
I'm going with this setup, it does away with so much BS, no knock sensor, no paying out the ying-yang for a tuner to put the engine on edge with alky injection (this alone would be more expensive than a dual fuel system), no depending on consistent quality of 93 octane & no blown engines due to alky pump dying or knock creeping in and turbo boost stays on kill 100% of the time. I will keep the meth. injection to help cool the intake charge. Time to get to work.
Mike
 
I'm going with this setup, it does away with so much BS, no knock sensor, no paying out the ying-yang for a tuner to put the engine on edge with alky injection (this alone would be more expensive than a dual fuel system), no depending on consistent quality of 93 octane & no blown engines due to alky pump dying or knock creeping in and turbo boost stays on kill 100% of the time. I will keep the meth. injection to help cool the intake charge. Time to get to work.
Mike

I rate you for wanting to try something new, but you have the reliability of a alky system all wrong. The pumps don't just die during a pass and the process of tuning is identical, both systems are triggered by a pressure switch and ramped in. If you set anything on kill the probability of failure is inevitable eventually. Unless your racing it... don't set it on kill. Alky done right is more then you will ever need. On the street I run around 24psi on pump gas and alky and make more hp at that level then I do with race fuel at the same boost level.
 
I rate you for wanting to try something new, but you have the reliability of a alky system all wrong. The pumps don't just die during a pass and the process of tuning is identical, both systems are triggered by a pressure switch and ramped in. If you set anything on kill the probability of failure is inevitable eventually. Unless your racing it... don't set it on kill. Alky done right is more then you will ever need. On the street I run around 24psi on pump gas and alky and make more hp at that level then I do with race fuel at the same boost level.
Agree. For so many reasons. Mike and I have had mostly unchanged performance combinations for years now. I drive my car often and for hours when the weather is good, it always has street gas in it, and it's always in mid 9 second tune. And I have never hurt it in over 13 years. Maybe your looking for more? But that's more than enough for me on a standard summer cruise in the NYC suburbs.

Alky works. Requires some maintenance, as do all things. But less to figure out. Less parts and tuning is the same. I played around in the maps a bit around where the alky begins to come in under moderate acceleration, but that's because I'm OCD.

You will become more familiar with XFI as time goes on. Self educate and baby steps with a tuner friend by telephone. It's inevitable. Then none of this stuff will be a big deal any longer.
 
How are you guys monitoring knock with an engine that is nowhere near stock?

Mike
 
How are you guys monitoring knock with an engine that is nowhere near stock?

Mike
With a knock sensor.some guys use them some dont.the car can get to a point that when there is fuel pressure and tuned correctly you dont need one.pulling plugs,auto correction,etc.depends on the route you take.i personally like to still have it there.
 
If you don't want to run allky and are willing to go through the trouble of running a dual fuel system. Why no just run ethanol?
 
How are you guys monitoring knock with an engine that is nowhere near stock?

Mike
I don't have much trouble using a knock sensor. Once my tune was smooth and I worked out other rattles, vibrations and anything that may be hitting or kissing, they almost never read knock.

When they do, I check the tune and do a data log. But thankfully I always find it to be something loose or some banging somewhere. Last time it went off, it was because I had a bad plug wire and didn't know until it . Then later it was s bad coilpack. was a lon
 
Sent that too soon.......but you get the point. Knock has it's own frequency. If the tune is good and smooth, even a beefy stage motor may be able keep it from false reading.
 
How are you guys monitoring knock with an engine that is nowhere near stock?

Mike

StageII on center motors don't come with a knock sensor or a oil dipstick. I keep the timing low and the air fuel a couple points fatter than it needs to be. My fear for you is that all the areas of concern that you have has not improved with this system. You're just adding more variables to heighten the risk of failure with running 3 systems on the car (pump gas, race fuel and alky). And with such a complex system like this you will be hard pressed to have anyone put their name on tuning such a system with so many moving parts that they have to take your word for it that everything works flawlessly. I personally would have nothing to do with it as a tuner. Too much risk and next to no reward, and without the knowledge of tuning it yourself your going to pay out the ying yang twice. Once in building a second fuel system and two getting someone willing to stand behind it.
 
StageII on center motors don't come with a knock sensor or a oil dipstick. I keep the timing low and the air fuel a couple points fatter than it needs to be. My fear for you is that all the areas of concern that you have has not improved with this system. You're just adding more variables to heighten the risk of failure with running 3 systems on the car (pump gas, race fuel and alky). And with such a complex system like this you will be hard pressed to have anyone put their name on tuning such a system with so many moving parts that they have to take your word for it that everything works flawlessly. I personally would have nothing to do with it as a tuner. Too much risk and next to no reward, and without the knowledge of tuning it yourself your going to pay out the ying yang twice. Once in building a second fuel system and two getting someone willing to stand behind it.
A double ying-yang, more analysis required.:rolleyes:
 
Its been a busy year with the GN, started with a dyno session last fall. The tuner I went to took a lot of time with the car making it very drivable when cold and hot, it drives perfect, no stumble, starts easy when cold and hot, tip-in is perfect, all good. He did find the turbos were too big, I suspected they were and this confirmed it. I wasn't sure if the big port S2 heads were causing it to lag or the turbos, it took too much rpm to get them to spool, 3 cylinders were not enough to spin S300s. It did make almost 700rwhp @ 6500rpm, a couple hundred off what it should make and not as fun to drive as I thought it should be.
So I sold the S300s and installed BW 7163 EFR turbos last winter:
These turbos solved the problem, these start to spool around 2500 and come in hard/fast, the engine has now come alive, the trans also bangs much harder even at light throttle. The EFR turbos have aluminum cores and weigh-in 12lbs lighter (each) than the S300s, they are water cooled so a bit more plumbing was required. The physical size is much smaller and the light weight made them pretty easy to install, just had to add about an inch to each downpipe which was easy.
Also installed a G4 knock detector which works great, sensor is screwed into the block:
When I received the engine from Chis the first thing I did was pull the pan and have a dipstick installed since this is not a drag race only car.
Also installed the new center console after I had a body shop paint it and I put in a much better street shifter. I built a new stereo system, I couldn't see the old stereo display very well and the tiny factory speakers just couldn't cut it. Had to sell the racing seat as it was too uncomfortable, the Braum seats I installed last fall get a 5 star rating from me, very nice seats.
Re-torqued the heads last winter as well while the headers were off, the Cometics spit oil on the floor when I park it, doesn't seem to leak when running only when I park it and it cools down. Still spits oil on the floor, I don't have it in me to pull the heads so it will just have to drip. Very happy with the whole car now other than than the oil drip, I love these turbos and the engine is very capable of 900-1k horsepower, its waay to much for the street which for me means its perfect. I have not had it back to the dyno as its too expensive but it really screams now, I have the boost at 20psi with dual nozzles spraying 100% methanol, no knock.
Mike
 
Where did you mount the Link G4 knock sensor?
 
Couple of pics, both EFR turbos, then a side by side size comparison with the old S300. The S300 would be good as a single turbo for a V6, not so good as a twin setup. The EFR turbo wheel is the last pic. These EFRs are much smaller and waay lighter, these have a T3 inlet, 2.5" outlet, 3" V-band exhaust outlet, 0.82 exhaust A/R and a 3" air inlet (company in CA sells them with these specific features). The old S300s had a 4" inlet, 3" outlet, 0.70 exhaust A/R, 3" V-band (different type of V-band) exhaust. The 7163s flow enough for over 1k hp at approx. 28psi.
 

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Looking back at these pics I remember all I had to do was cut off the V-bands and install the ones that fit the EFR housings, I didn't have to add any material to the downpipes. After running the car for a while now I can say the header coating was a waste of money, I have had to wrap everything as the radiant heat is wicked underhood. The exhaust wrap works very well, 100% better than any coating. Plumbed the turbo oil feeds from the back of the block with the oil pressure sensor and the oil filter adapter. Took some creative plumbing to get the water in and out.
 

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Plumbing and blankets. I found the best thermostat housings have the threaded features after the thermostat, not in a giant spacer before/under the thermostat. Both water returns are in the heater lines, the water feeds are from the intake/T-stat housing.
 

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Have to pre-lube the turbos before starting the first time. I had to remake the passenger's side WG exhaust, the meth. tank was getting too hot from the pipe being too close. Any split loom near (within 10 inches) the pass. side header was melting, even though its high-temp. stuff, the radiant heat from the headers is brutal hot.
Steareo back seat monster holds the amps, 10" sub., 8" woofers and the AC vents. I am working on the grills this week, finished the center one and am building the 2 side ones this week.
 

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The new gauge measures crankcase pressure, so far its been under 2psi, no vacuum pump (no room anyways). The paint shop did an outstanding job painting the console, the piece that fits over the shifter is painted GN grey. In the trunk I placed the power grid for the amps and the front crossovers. The Pioneer head unit has a 7" pop-up screen and has Apple carplay so I can view Pandora and Waze which is what I use all the time.
 

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