Some questions about vacuum brake installation

[JoeMastro]

I just got my vacuum brake booster kit, and I just had a couple questions.
Firstly, there is some sort of plastic assembly piece with some power cables going to it on top of the steering column, and it seems to be broken or disconnected from the column. I'm not sure what this piece is or what it does so I would like to know what it is for and how to fix it, if its broken.
Secondly, I'm not sure if this is normal, but when I installed the new vacuum pedal with the booster, the pedal is pushed out a lot more than my
previous pedal. I haven't bled the master cylinder yet, so maybe that's why the pedal is farther out than normal. Thanks.

 

[JoeMastro]

Here's a picture of the plastic piece that I was talking about. (the best picture I could find of it)
It's right by the 11' mark on the tape measure.

 

[Nick Micale]

Never had a pedal come out further than normal?

If you did not bench bleed the master cylinder, you will a hell of a time bleeding the system.

Looks like the plastic sleeve came loose or broke from the column, should not affect anything.

 

[JoeMastro]

Never had a pedal come out further than normal?

If you did not bench bleed the master cylinder, you will a hell of a time bleeding the system.

Looks like the plastic sleeve came loose or broke from the column, should not affect anything.

Well I haven't put the master on the booster yet haha. I just put the booster on for now.
I'm planning on bench bleeding the master cylinder and putting it on this weekend.
As for that plastic piece, if it's not that big of a deal that it broke off then I wont worry about it.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

^^ x2 on bench bleeding the master cylinder before install. You cannot push the piston to the end of the stroke once in the car and there will be a spongy pocket of air in the end of the M/C. Yes, I learned the hard way.

The white plastic piece by the 11" mark to me, looks like the park/ neutral/ reverse safety switch. If memory serves, the part with the wiring connector is attached to the column while the other part moves with the shifter so the car will start and the reverse lights come on.
There is a sliding part that is for adjustment.

As far as the pedal being too high, maybe the rod isn't seated in the booster pocket??

I think Nick may be referring to the plastic sleeve by the red arrow, if its loose it won't affect shifting but may look odd.

Cheers,
George

 

[Nick Micale]

Another comment, when you install the MC after it is bled, connect the lines tight until you are ready to bleed the brakes.

When all is ready for bleeding the system, loosen to lines to the MC after you have some rags under the fittings, and let it drip fluid very slowly for a short while, maybe 5 minutes.

After a few more minutes, have your "assistant" push the pedal very slow, tighten when pedal is all the way down. After a couple minutes, bring the pedal down and loosen the lines. Do it the second time, and you should have a good pedal.

 

[cruzn57]

you did change the pedal assy, didn't you?

 

[JoeMastro]

you did change the pedal assy, didn't you?

Yes I did, I bought the kit from kirbans, so it came with everything.

 

[JoeMastro]

Another comment, when you install the MC after it is bled, connect the lines tight until you are ready to bleed the brakes.

When all is ready for bleeding the system, loosen to lines to the MC after you have some rags under the fittings, and let it drip fluid very slowly for a short while, maybe 5 minutes.

After a few more minutes, have your "assistant" push the pedal very slow, tighten when pedal is all the way down. After a couple minutes, bring the pedal down and loosen the lines. Do it the second time, and you should have a good pedal.

That's exactly what we are planning on doing. Although I also want to bleed the lines at the calipers too, because I just want to make sure the fluid is clean throughout.

 

[JoeMastro]

^^ x2 on bench bleeding the master cylinder before install. You cannot push the piston to the end of the stroke once in the car and there will be a spongy pocket of air in the end of the M/C. Yes, I learned the hard way.

The white plastic piece by the 11" mark to me, looks like the park/ neutral/ reverse safety switch. If memory serves, the part with the wiring connector is attached to the column while the other part moves with the shifter so the car will start and the reverse lights come on.
There is a sliding part that is for adjustment.

As far as the pedal being too high, maybe the rod isn't seated in the booster pocket??

I think Nick may be referring to the plastic sleeve by the red arrow, if its loose it won't affect shifting but may look odd.

Cheers,
George

Thanks, for your help. I looked at the plastic switch and, I snapped it back on the column so I could adjust it. It worked like a charm, and the reverse lights come on properly. Also, I will look into the pedal being a bit too high this weekend when we finish the installation of the vacuum brakes.

 

[1986 Buick GX1]

Thanks, for your help. I looked at the plastic switch and, I snapped it back on the column so I could adjust it. It worked like a charm, and the reverse lights come on properly. Also, I will look into the pedal being a bit too high this weekend when we finish the installation of the vacuum brakes.

I'm glad the switch was a fairly easy fix.
Make sure you let us know about the pedal fix as well.

 

[JoeMastro]

So the installation is finished! I bled the master cylinder, put it on the car, and bled the brakes at the calipers just to get the lines nice and clean. About the pedal, the height seems to be fine, I think it just looked higher than I was installing it. But other than that, I've got a good firm brake pedal and the car stops on a dime if you want it to. So glad I converted it.