I had that problem too, lot's of tuning to find out that it was engine mounts, so I bought engine mounts. The drivers factory mount was completely de-laminated from the steel. HR all the way! I'm excited to see the difference. When I was solution seeking, I brake torqued it with a friend to see how much the motor moved, found out it was actually touching my upper control arm!In the times of quarantine, I get to work on my TR more than ever now. Finally got the scanmaster permanently installed along with the original radio. You need tunes man. Speaking of tunes. I am getting some small knock in about 16-17 psi of boost (no higher than 3). My AFR wideband shows good numbers (11-12) so curious if it's real knock or not. I've been in and out of KR posts here but a lot of heavily modified engines. My setup:
Fuel Pump hotwire kit (previous owner did it and forgot which one it was, Racetronix?)
Stock turbo with 3in downpipe
Turbo Tweak chip (5.6, 42# STREET 93 - 20/18 degrees - 16-18 psi)
Applied Tech cold air kit
I run 93 in her, just fixed the DS header and new crossover. I get a very small exhaust leak at the flange but it goes away once it warms up. The down pipe leaks a bit of water when I first start it up near the turbo which to me doesn't seem right. Looks to be coming out of the flange (gasket?). New PCV valve.
Just wondering what else to check? Everything I read about knock seems to indicate timing and fuel. I'm getting great pressure. I have some new NGK UR5 plugs to put in which are colder than the current ones, would that help? Does gap matter for KR? I did notice at the inlet pipe, at one point it looked to have rubbed up against the alternator fan blade and my heat shield rattles but only at idle.
Car runs great so want to keep it that way. I don't race it but like to open it up now and then. Don't want to blow it up just yet.