Shifter Cable Thread

Blazer406

Mechanical Engineer
Joined
May 2, 2002
There is not too many posts on this recently and I thought I would share what I learned. Feel free to correct me if I am wrong and add to the thread for others to find when they are in need.

This is for the shifter cable that goes inbetween the floor shifter and the 2004R tranny on an '87 GN. I suspect all console shift Turbo Buicks probably use this same cable.

There are post after post where people have bought the wrong cable or the cable they bought wouldn't work properly.

Here is what I know:

Stock GM part number - 25537476
I see also this part number used interchangeably: GM 22519497

I see many threads suggesting to buy a "new" OEM one from nos4GN - aka Highway AllStars - I think they only carry an aftermarket replacment now. I assume any OEM ones left either aren't for sale or they are sold out. I am not sure what brand they carry.

Gbody parts usually carries OEM parts when they can scoop old stock up. They list one as "Buick Shifter Cable New GM", however don't list the PN.

Based on the above part numbers I believe the correct length is 26.15" or so.

On the aftermarket side, I think you have:

ATP - Y-651
Dorman - 4280 or 04280
Pioneer - 4280

I read a thread that suggests somewhere along the line GM decided that cable was a little too short and they made available a longer cable that would work. Kirban's webite came up on a google search and said "GM changed this shift cable giving it a new number and made it longer, apparently due to problems with the original." I have no data on this, however, there seem to be some other (aftermarket) cables out there that measure 29.75" (which is just over 3" longer than the one most say are for our cars). I cannot say if they will or will not work. From my own experience with my own '87 GN, the stock cable isn't any too long.... it appears pulled fairly tight and barely makes it into the bracket on the tranny. It is too short IMHO, and a couple 2 or 3 inches more wouldn't hurt IMHO. I would like someone to chime in that knows the story.

When I look on "Rock Auto" they show (as 2 of the three replacements available that fit an '87 Buick Turbo Regal) the two 29.75" cables as:

ATP - Y-116
Dorman - 04251

Again, I would like feedback if any of these work.

I am hoping this will compile many threads worth of research into one thread.
 
I got no input on this, but I like it when someone makes an effort to sort crap like this out. What part of the cable are you measuring from? I would assume all floor shift 200-4rs use interchangeable cables, except the hurst olds. Lightning rods use a different cable, difference is likely on the shifter end only. I wish i'd have measured the cable on the lightning rods I sold for a buddy of mine for reference. I got a cable or 2 laying around I can measure.

To be correct, you need to measure the length of both the cable and the sheath. Measure the sheath from flange to flange and the cable from eyelet to eyelet. If you add 3 inches to both parts it will work perfectly but adding length to either/or will screw things up big time. TV cables and throttle cables work the same way.

Alcohol is a factor in this post (it IS saturday night after all) so forgive me or just flat ignore me if I'm wrong here. I seem to be doing good on the grammar so far so I think I'm in the sweet spot for thinking openly :) .
 
A small update..... I went by Advance Auto Parts tonight looking for a couple things and thought if they had one of the 26" cables, I might give it a whirl...... their computer only showed 2 cables for our cars...... one is 18.99 the other is 26.99. The 18.99 one is the 04251 cable. They didn't show in the computer what length it was, so I had them pull it. I measured about 29" eye to eye. I believe this is not the one we need. Anyway... with the cable sitting out on the counter and me attempting to straighten it to measure it...... the cable plastic sheath separated from the wire inner sheath...... just like my factory one has done (only it took 160k miles for mine to do this). What a piece!

Anyway, I suppose the more expensive one they didn't have would be the one I need. Not sure I want to try the other one either if it is made like the one they had in stock..... just shorter.

A mile down the road I was at an Orielly's..... they pulled up the ATP number I had "Y-651". Of course, they didn't have it either.... but could get one out of the warehouse by Tuesday. I said no thanks. I then had them look up one for an '87 GN. He said it was the same cable. I asked what brand it was... he said they carry Pioneer. I asked him what the part number was for the cross to the Y-651 cable...... he said it was Pioneer number CA1130........ this is different than what I had in my 1st post above..... I'm thinking it is incorrect for the Pioneer part number..... and this CA1130 is the correct one. Anyway.....didn't get them to order it either.

Instead, I came home, put my new brake pads and new hardware on the front of the car and got a wild hair to try and JB Weld the plastic sheath onto the inner wire sheath..... I pulled them apart slightly, smeared a little JB Weld on the exposed part of the wire sheath..... then muscled the plastic sheath back over it.... and then doped up the outside where they join with a little JB Weld..... I thought I would try it as I have nothing to loose. I'll try and drive it tomorrow afternoon maybe after it sets up good.....
 
Good info. I have a hard time believing that the chevy and pontiac have a different cable. If they are all 200-4r I can't see why gm would change that stuff, unless the console/shifter arrangement had to be moved for aesthetic reasons. I will try to get over and measure my loose ones although it might not help much in this thread.
 
I'm not sure about the exact length of some of the aftermarket shifter cables out there....But i will say this. From my own personal experience when i broke a shifter cable 2yrs ago on my WH1. I went thru roughly 4 cables from auto zone and pep boys combined :mad: I even brought one up near Otto's shop....And they ALL BROKE AFTER JUST A FEW SHIFTS!!!! The only one that worked like the original with a smooth and tight shift was the one i paid $95.00 for from GM High Way Stars :) I try to shift nice and eeeasy....:rolleyes: and prey to God i don't have to find another one lol
 
The 04280 is the shorter and correct one. It is a POS and I know this because I went through 2 in a month. Where the crimp the ends on the cable tube it doesn't lock in and separates. I ordered a third one and it felt loose as well. I took it to a local hose/cable shop and they made me one using marine fittings and used the dorman ends which are not the problem. It was unreal how strong and durable the piece is. $32 and I will never have to replace a shifter cable again.
 
I will add some info in here.

I have bought both of the ATP parts listed on Rock Auto in the last couple of weeks. Both were wrong. They would fit the console side, but when you attach it to the trans bracket and try to extend the cable out to attach to the shift lever they are too short. The Y116 was about 1.5" too short and the Y651 was about 1" too short. Today I ordered one from Hiway Stars and hope that it's a better fit. If that doesn't work i'll make my own.


Shifter cable GN.JPG
 
The 04280 is the shorter and correct one. It is a POS and I know this because I went through 2 in a month. Where the crimp the ends on the cable tube it doesn't lock in and separates. I ordered a third one and it felt loose as well. I took it to a local hose/cable shop and they made me one using marine fittings and used the dorman ends which are not the problem. It was unreal how strong and durable the piece is. $32 and I will never have to replace a shifter cable again.

Hey eye-opener,
What type of hose/cable shop I'd you go onto get the work done? Any pics?
 
I bought the part from highway stars. It fit well and worked ok for about a day. Then the cable sheath pushed out of the mounting plastic. I used some plastic weld epoxy to put it back together. Felt stronger than ever!! That worked for 2 days before it pushed out of that was well. Tried all of the area junkyards and pull a part joints and got nothing. Went to advance and they listed one at 31". Put it in and same as the others. Fits the shifter side but is about 2" too sort on the trans side. Fml.
 
Measured my spare cable today, I am fairly certain it's an original GM part.

25 1/2" cable length, center of eyelet to center of eyelet. 16" sheath length, mounting clip to mounting clip. This is semi-approximated, as I couldn't straighten the cable perfectly, for fear of breaking the sheath.

Again, you can add 1 or 3 or even 14 inches to BOTH the sheath and the inner cable and it will work perfectly. So make sure whatever cable you find has an approximate 10" difference between sheath length and cable length, only slightly biased to one side. Unfortunately can't help with the aftermarket cable problems. Someone will dream up a fix from jb weld and/or hose clamps.
 
Hey eye-opener,
What type of hose/cable shop I'd you go onto get the work done? Any pics?
I have a hose/cable place down here that does marine application cables and they had what was needed to make it work. The best part was that they only charged $30 and it is an indestructible piece! I would check around your area...down here in south Florida there are tons of places to choose from...not sure if u have the same luck there....
 
I bought the part from highway stars. It fit well and worked ok for about a day. Then the cable sheath pushed out of the mounting plastic. I used some plastic weld epoxy to put it back together. Felt stronger than ever!! That worked for 2 days before it pushed out of that was well. Tried all of the area junkyards and pull a part joints and got nothing. Went to advance and they listed one at 31". Put it in and same as the others. Fits the shifter side but is about 2" too sort on the trans side. Fml.

Can I have one of those cables that didn't work? I'll buy an appropriate morse cable and make whatever custom ends are needed to hook it to a stock shifter and trans linkage. You can do the testing for me.
 
Update....

My JB welded original cable has held up to several hundred street miles and works fine...
 
I've ordered a new round of cables. I think I will do a preemptive strike and expoxy/JB Weld the ends on before I put it on as that seems to be the biggest issue with failure.
 
I'm also in need of cable. All the ones I find are the wrong length
Anyone have any luck finding one yet?
I'm tired of using the damn column shifter :mad:
 
I just installed one from advance auto parts a couple weeks ago. Not sure on the exact length but it was part number 4280. The only trick is not to lose the old clips that put it on. It didn't come with new ones.


Also you have to make sure to adjust the linkage to make sure the shifter detents match up with the transmission detents BEFORE fine tuning the reverse light switch. (unless you want to do it twice like I did :) )
 
Now I'll put MY input in on this;). .....":confused::rolleyes:o_O" says Ineedagn. The longer cable is the correct one for the 2004r regals with the floor shifter. I used my busted original to size it up. The ones sold from advance hold up pretty well, better than some used shit youll buy from some rapist on the board. The shorter one is obviously for a 3spd floor shift car. Just because the computer shows both cables doesn't mean they were both used on the car, chain store databases are retarded at best. My newest cable doesn't seem to want to mesh perfectly with the detents in the shifter like the last aftermarket one I had but I got a little rammy with shit when I shouldn't have and I'm sure I bent something-oh well.
 
I have a hose/cable place down here that does marine application cables and they had what was needed to make it work. The best part was that they only charged $30 and it is an indestructible piece! I would check around your area...down here in south Florida there are tons of places to choose from...not sure if u have the same luck there....
Can you share a contact number? Here in Sebring I can't get anything done.
 
My fix was to wrap the cable and the end with epoxy and wrapped with very fine fiberglass cloth. The epoxy is just a little more flexible than resin and the multilayer saturated fiberglass cloth is quite strong. So far it works well, I guess time will tell.
 
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