sealing center support ?

Did a little search.
Trying to see about the awrvon material.
 
Another design consideration with 4L80e rings is what’s happening in low gear in a 200-4R. The direct drum is hauling ass at 2.5 times engine speed with unpressurized rings along for the ride. I’m no 4L80e expert but I don’t believe this happens in their intended application. Could be a factor in the solid Teflon complaints. If you’re going to try the Transgo high temp split Teflons it’s worth a consideration of whether or not to install the expander under them. And if not gonna install the expander then you might as well grab some 400 split Teflons and save your money.
 
The thing I’ve taken away from all these conversations about rings is that the solid Teflons don’t handle being overheated. If we look at the source application for the rings, the 4L80e, they came with solid Teflon and the aftermarket has stepped in with “better” alternatives, namely a Vespel plastic ring and the transgo 4L80e-htrk high temperature ring kit which is a scarf cut ring with an expander under it. People like Steve will probably never have a problem with solid Teflon because he has pretty good control over where his builds end up and ensures adequate cooling etc. People like Dave and Lonnie are shipping these things all over the country to people who’ve never even seen a turbo Buick and are putting them in street rods and other vehicles and the customer’s knowledge of trans cooling is hit or miss at best. They can’t run solid Teflons because if it gets hot once the directs are done. In that situation anything is better than solid Teflon especially since the engine in front of it is maybe 350-400 hp at most.

I’m also nearly certain that one or more persons has figured out a better solution than all the publicly known options and has (rightfully) chosen to remain tight lipped about their findings. Even Dave’s availability of an oversized iron ring is rightfully kept to himself as to what it’s normally used in. Most hobbyists don’t have the ability to machine the bore properly anyway.

I do love these discussions though :)

Well to correct a misconception here...… A True Servon ring will take close to 600 degrees and not deflect or melt. Ask the guys that have witnessed me taking a lighter to prove this is true. Also a Teflon ring such as a 400 or 4l80E or even a 4L60E has a melting or deflection point of over 450
BUTTTTTTTTTT
If your trans is running the rings at those temps you got a helluva lot bigger problems and I mean HUGE if this is in fact the case. You also have to rememeber that what cause issues the most is the ring sticking and spinning or not spinning in the ring groove or against the drum THIS is the point at which all the problems begin. Like I have said before, LEARN HOW a true Teflon, servon ring works and HOW and WHY it seals. If you cant find it in print., maybe we will have to have a class about it. Tickets are $99.95 for all three classes..:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Anyway THAT is step A
WE4

Principals of operation.... Once you figure out how and why they work, you have a much better chance of fixing or making one work >
 
Preface: Written text can be hard to interpret with no tone of voice etc. and can easily be misconstrued as being angry at someone. I want you know I’m typing calmly and collected and I thoroughly enjoy these types of friendly discussions. I’m in hog heaven discussing theory. That being said:

I know how they work ya damn goofball. and I know how much sealing force they can have when pressurized. Here’s an article from awhile back on the Japs developing a ring with lower side tension to improve fuel economy (!)


Now. As far as servon is concerned I’m very intrigued at the possibilities with it but being special order of what I presume to be large lots and probably having to machine the center support for them pretty much throws them out of the picture to any hobbyist or even small volume pro builder. If they are the magic wand solution to the problem, someone oughta be selling them. (Hint hint)

4L80e solid teflons: Regardless of their proposed melting point there’s obviously a problem with them in severe duty applications. Exhibit A being the transgo 4L80e-htrk high temp ring kit. Transgo didn’t develop that for no good reason and the Vespel plastic rings didn’t show up for no good reason either. OEM is proven inadequate in certain situations (treating it like a damn tractor). Now as far as them possibly sticking in the center support and being wiped out by the drum, I revert to the post directly above yours where I stated we should stop and think about what’s happening to these rings when the transmission is at the top of low gear. Drum spinning up to 12,000 rpm and beyond with the solid Teflons along for the ride but without pressurization. This situation does not happen in the 4L80e at least not near that RPM. Makes a strong case for good ol’ fashioned scarf cut 400 rings which I know for a fact some have reverted to and have “reportedly” stopped having problems with Teflon. Another case of builder preference I guess.

This is a good thread. Where’s the OP even at? Lit a dumpster fire and ran off laughing at us.
 
Can we not edit posts anymore? Wtf

EDIT: we can apparently only edit for a short time after posting
 
Yeah, ya get about five min to edit. Went back and it appears my thumbs can't spell servon, haha, and no way to fix it. Lee is an eclectic guy. Wrenches on lots of stuff by his posts, so he will be back around eventually and read up on what gets posted in the mean time.
Keep up the knowledge, I'm following along too.
 
I guess I'm not seeing why the iron ones are bad.
Surely they ride on a layer of trans oil like a bearing in an engine. Maybe not. They would have a hard time melting em inside a trans. Unless the drum gets out of round or the ring has a flat spot I am seeing a seal much like a piston ring with the trans fluid providing the ring expansion instead of the exploding air/fuel mix in an engine.
 
So who’s having ring failures with Teflon? I’ve probably got 100 of these out there with Teflon and no problem. As I already mentioned the pressure plate, apply ring, steels, and clutches when combined with the correct hole sizes and pressure made all the difference. Iron works if the bore is perfect and stable on the center support and the grooves aren’t hit. Teflon seems to work on just about anything if it’s the correct ring.


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I guess I'm not seeing why the iron ones are bad.
Surely they ride on a layer of trans oil like a bearing in an engine. Maybe not. They would have a hard time melting em inside a trans. Unless the drum gets out of round or the ring has a flat spot I am seeing a seal much like a piston ring with the trans fluid providing the ring expansion instead of the exploding air/fuel mix in an engine.

Iron rings will work perfect on a brand new perfectly round bore on the day you build the trans. 30 years later there are few perfect drums to be had, mainly because the iron rings ate the bore up and had to be honed out. So do you machine every drum for an oversized iron ring or find a Teflon with no compromises? This is the whole point of the discussion.
 
So who’s having ring failures with Teflon? I’ve probably got 100 of these out there with Teflon and no problem. As I already mentioned the pressure plate, apply ring, steels, and clutches when combined with the correct hole sizes and pressure made all the difference. Iron works if the bore is perfect and stable on the center support and the grooves aren’t hit. Teflon seems to work on just about anything if it’s the correct ring.


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Lonnie and Dave have both reported problems with the solid Teflons. Lonnie claimed the problems to likely be heat related. Three years back I asked the question and everyone was talking about Chrysler rings being better. I have unlimited access to the Chrysler parts system and tracked down the leads on all the mentioned Chrysler units. Chrysler never used Teflon its an aftermarket deal. Open up the parts house books I have and can find online and they all tracked back to 92181T with the gm number behind it as the reference. For all I know there could have been one bad batch or one mislabeled batch of 4L60e rings that caused a few problems and made the affected parties gun shy of using them. The fact the aftermarket has improved the design in the 4L80e tells some of the tale that they may have heat problems.
 
Yup. Like said above if the trans is getting hot enough to cause rings to fail you have some other big problems. Check the rings in the bore prior to install on the center support will let you know right away if they are the correct ones


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Here’s a WOT 2-3 at about 850hp. I’ve done this approximately 60 times and it’s still the same every time. A little over a tenth of a second. These are the 4L80e Teflon rings dual fed.
d0b61f932cd183436b2dfd638c83138e.jpg



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Here’s another before 2-3 and after. About 2 minutes after the last one
9b356c836ea9cd2a0cacc5942837d266.jpg


43e35f6c7dc84b3f783f3d8b757bdcc7.jpg



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Yeah, ya get about five min to edit. Went back leand it appears my thumbs can't spell servon, haha, and no way to fix it. Lee is an eclectic guy. Wrenches on lots of stuff by his posts, so he will be back around eventually and read up on what gets posted in the mean time.
Keep up the knowledge, I'm following along too.
I'm here. Just soaking it all in.
The reason I started this thread is my neighbor and good friend (Patrick Hester) and I are fighting a 2-3 flare with dual feed billet trans (9.70 ish) car. I was sold on Teflon rings as I have seen too many drums worn beyond repair from steel rings. Many many years ago Mike Kurtz told me about the teflon rings. I know Dave Huseck does not approve of them. I agree there are a lot of factors involved in sealing the bore. Thanks for all the replies. Lee
 
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