Scanmaster Question

[Kyleh24]

I started to title the thread: Am I "Retarded", but thought better of it. I hope this is an easy question. If I have an ECM chip that has 20 degrees of timing in it for the higher boost, will I see "this" timing on the main screen of the scanmaster, on the right, timing retard. Or if I am seeing this number go up to 16 at high boost, am I looking at a problem? Thanks Kyle

 

[626gn]

If I understand your question the 16 you're seeing is the amount of knock retard you are having, not timing. Read the attached documents carefully and don't beat on your car until you have an understanding of what your scan numbers are telling you.

Here's an in-depth read on understanding scan numbers http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/Scantool_Readings.htm

 

[Kyleh24]

I have those except the TT doc. The Scanmaster instructions say that if you see kr then figure out why. That's where I am. My car is stock. I was trying this chip because this car only would run 15.1 in the quarter on the stock chip. Hard to figure out what, when it is stock (and the owner is new and V6 turbo challenged). I guess I was looking for an easy excuse / explanation. Unless someone has some suggestions, I will put the stock chip back in and live with it. Thanks for the spanking.

 

[626gn]

What chip are you running?
How much boost are you running?
What kind of fuel are you using?

No spanking here

 

[Kyleh24]

The chip I am asking about is supposed to be a TT stock chip.
I only have the bar graph...It is really stock
93 octane pump gas.
I know one thing I should do is the hotwire, but I don't know how to tell if it has been done already, I am assuming it hasn't and is stock too. Would a hotwire kit connect up to the battery direct? I don't see anything extra other than the orange wire.

 

[Kyleh24]

And if I am going to go through the effort to run the wire, what fuel pump should I drop in. The factory one has the distinct GM whine.

 

[626gn]

The chip I am asking about is supposed to be a TT stock chip.
I only have the bar graph...It is really stock
93 octane pump gas.
I know one thing I should do is the hotwire, but I don't know how to tell if it has been done already, I am assuming it hasn't and is stock too. Would a hotwire kit connect up to the battery direct? I don't see anything extra other than the orange wire.

Sounds like you may have some other chip in there. A TT chip usually has a round sticker on it with the letters TT on it and another sticker with the specs on it. I would invest in one.

20 degrees timing is usually too much with 93 octane. Too much timing and boost with only 93 octane would explain the high knock retard you are seeing. You need to lower your boost and/or raise the octane to get that KR down to 0 before you hurt something.

A hot wired fuel pump is a necessity. There should be a 10 ga. wire running from the back of the alternator to a relay near your gas tank if its hotwired.

 

[626gn]

And if I am going to go through the effort to run the wire, what fuel pump should I drop in. The factory one has the distinct GM whine.

Deatschwerks or Walbro is the popular choice. Might want to do a search and decide which one is for you.

 

[Kyleh24]

Thanks for all of the help!

 

[626gn]

No problem. Maybe others will chime in to expand on some of your issues...

 

[we4Mateo]

Where to start? Hotwire w/ new pump and chip, verify fuel pressure base for chip and rise 1:1 w/ boost, new plugs gapped tight, spring clean the intercooler, etc.

 

[we4Mateo]

Just start reading this whole site: http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/

 

[V6sleeper]

Throw in an adjustable fuel pressure regulator in the mix of your stuff with a rail mount gauge.

 

[blackgn1]

16 degrees of knock. That's not good. Please don't do that anymore. You don't want to pull the engine I'm sure. I saw one have 15 degrees and took out both headgaskets in seconds.

 

[Howling Mad]

This sounds like a terrible problem man...

 

[Bescurred]

OP Aren't you in Atl?

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[V6sleeper]

could be false knock also, if the cars still intact at repeated 16+ degree runs..

 

[Kyleh24]

I wont be doing it again, but I don't think its real. It doesn't act different. That's why I was looking for an easy explanation. Hot wire on order. Going back to stock chip for now. Thanks everyone

 

[Kyleh24]

Put the stock chip back in, and knock went back to nothing.

 

[earlbrown]

PARK THE CAR, yesterday if not sooner.

It needs a new set of valve springs, timing set, fuel pump, hot wire kit, modern chip, new injectors, new vacuum hoses, check valves, spring cleaning, Dextron VI trans fluid, trans filter, rear end dope, replace the MAF hose with one that doesn't have a hole in it, service the powermaster with a full fluid flush on all four corners, weld up the crack on the DS header, plugs, wires, ground the frame to the engine block, and a translator with a modern MAF wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Until that ENTIRE list is taken care of, that car is a grenade with the pin laying next to it.