All right so I finally got to this yesterday. (black wire) Excellent connection to ground. (Red wire) Excellent connection to power source even went to direct power and bypassed in line fuse holder. (Wire wire) wire has a soldered connection. Ignition on displays version number and then goes right back off. I don’t know what to do at this point. Any help would be awesome. Thanks in advance
Scanmaster Help Please
- Thread starter scrobbyd
- Start date
SCOOBY DOO
BASED CANADIAN PATRIOT!!
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2007
Contact Bob Bailey.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
SCOOBY speaks of one of our more famous Staff Members, "TurboBob".
That's Bob Bailey of Bailey Engineering, the original inventor of the Scanmaster.
I'm sure he would respond to you if you PM'd him.
My best Jedi guesses are these.
- Either there is a wire that has worked it's way loose in the wiring harness somewhere.
- There could be corrosion on the ECM connectors and pins caused by water leaks giving faulty readings.
- The ESC module has finally decided to throw in the towel.
- Or the knock sensor could be picking up false knock from something rattling around or hitting.
For kicks, disconnect your orange ECM power wire behind the battery, then pull your ECM out of the kick panel holder. Disconnect both main wiring harness connectors on the ECM and inspect for signs of white corrosion on the ECM pins and the connectors.
If you find any, you have a water leak making it's way down to the ECM. Very common as these cars get older. If the coast is clear, I would then reconnect the harness plugs, replace the ECM into it's holder and reconnect the orange ECM power wire. Then move on to the ESC module.
The ESC module (Electronic Spark Control module) is located on the passengers side inner fender beside the MAP sensor, if the car has an analog dash. It's a flat module with a bold 3 letter code on it, bolted to the inner fender with a harness connecting the bottom of the module. In brief, it's responsible for pulling timing when the knock sensor hears detonation. Check it and the pins for signs of corrosion too. I have seen when they go bad both types of issues. One way, it will add a lot of timing and the car will detonate it's ass off. And the other way is, it will pull a lot of timing and the car will run like a dog. Both times I've seen this, no trouble code popped. Also, replacing both cars with either a known good ESC and a New in the box ESC fixed them both.
I have also seen a failing belt tension click so bad at idle, that it caused false knock on a Scanmaster. But that's very rare.
Let us know what you figure out as this thread will be very helpful for others in the future.
- Patrick
That's Bob Bailey of Bailey Engineering, the original inventor of the Scanmaster.
I'm sure he would respond to you if you PM'd him.
My best Jedi guesses are these.
- Either there is a wire that has worked it's way loose in the wiring harness somewhere.
- There could be corrosion on the ECM connectors and pins caused by water leaks giving faulty readings.
- The ESC module has finally decided to throw in the towel.
- Or the knock sensor could be picking up false knock from something rattling around or hitting.
For kicks, disconnect your orange ECM power wire behind the battery, then pull your ECM out of the kick panel holder. Disconnect both main wiring harness connectors on the ECM and inspect for signs of white corrosion on the ECM pins and the connectors.
If you find any, you have a water leak making it's way down to the ECM. Very common as these cars get older. If the coast is clear, I would then reconnect the harness plugs, replace the ECM into it's holder and reconnect the orange ECM power wire. Then move on to the ESC module.
The ESC module (Electronic Spark Control module) is located on the passengers side inner fender beside the MAP sensor, if the car has an analog dash. It's a flat module with a bold 3 letter code on it, bolted to the inner fender with a harness connecting the bottom of the module. In brief, it's responsible for pulling timing when the knock sensor hears detonation. Check it and the pins for signs of corrosion too. I have seen when they go bad both types of issues. One way, it will add a lot of timing and the car will detonate it's ass off. And the other way is, it will pull a lot of timing and the car will run like a dog. Both times I've seen this, no trouble code popped. Also, replacing both cars with either a known good ESC and a New in the box ESC fixed them both.
I have also seen a failing belt tension click so bad at idle, that it caused false knock on a Scanmaster. But that's very rare.
Let us know what you figure out as this thread will be very helpful for others in the future.
- Patrick
Thanks for ALL the info Patrick and a ton of useful knowledge. I’ve been around the block a time or two with these cars and really thought of myself as a somewhat can handle most anything these cars can throw at me kinda guy, but this one has got me. Not sure when I’ll get on it but I will definitely post about it. Thanks again
