Rugh Idle and miss


I removed the egr and installed a blockoff plate (same before & after) I removed the vac line to the canister (no change). I have not tried the the crank sensor and it is from the previous engine. I thought these were either good or bad?? I am going to have to look up your procedure and try to reset the cam sensor. I have been through 3 sets of plugs ( annual maintenance) with no change. again this problem existed with my last engine and now this new engine. the only time I see the BLM's at 128 is when letting off while cruising.


Supporting Member
My brother (who started this thread) has his EGR blocked off as well. I really am starting to get concerned about his mental health. I think this rough idle and miss thing is causing him to lose his mind :)

He's done lots of things including taking the rocker arms off (to close the valves) and pressurizing the intake. No leaks. As he found it was sucking air through a blown head gasket. The new head gasket seems to have fixed things but he still thinks there's something wrong with it. The other head might be warped as well - who knows. I think it runs fine but he gets mad when I tell him that.



Active Member
Ok, I had wacky BLM's from vacuum leaks, but they were high blm's. After changing to an LS1 MAF, 50's, an extender chip and a translator, my BLM's were bottomed out at 90 and it was spewing raw gas. I dropped the BLM offset down to 1, and even my translator down to 10% lean which got my BLM's in a decent range to drive for a year to work and back, but it wasnt right. The BLM's were still low. My translator was a version 5.4. After complaining on this site, mike from full throttle said the extender chips didnt work with the older translators. After more than a year of beating my head on the wall, it would have been nice if this info would have been on their site, but at least I found a possibility after exhausting every other possibility, and Mike sent me a new version 6.22 chip. I disconnected the battery to clear the memory (not the translator), put the new chip in, set the dip switches and fired it up. The problem was still there. I disconnected the battery again (you should always start fresh or the old adaptive code may screw up your new settings), and I changed the settings on the translator for a 3" MAF, even though I had a 3.5. Suddenly the problem was gone. I dont know if it was the new chip or what, but I was good from then on. I always did have an issue where Id tune it to 128 blm at cruise, and while decelerating, they would drop to 105 or so, but that was fine. I dont know if you have a translator or anything, but if so you should check it out. I also had another problem that took 2 years to discover...the orange power wire had cracked strands inside the insulation. You would never know. Given it's location and tendency to get wet from rain and washing the car, I could easily see pinholes or cracks allowing water to get in and corrode the wire. I was ohming stuff out and tested that wire for kicks, and found it was bad. I used to have this random problem with the chip acting like it was in valet mode. I never imagined it had an intermittent power problem cause I never did lose my extender's settings. But after repairing that wire, it ran much better.