Ok question. I have a great tranny, Love it but I have a question on whether I'm doing something wrong or not.
regular driving I don't break the rotor, even at the track I have not broke a rotor.
But this is my 3rd rotor break, the last one only had a hairline crack but was still functional, I just heard a clicking noise around the converter/pump area.
swapped converters it quieted down but still noticeable. Pulled the transmission and the hairline crack on the pump is what I found.
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The first rotor crack was with an EDGE converter & a completely different pump. (about 300/400 miles on new tranny & pump)(I left the spacers out of the converter/flexplate was the reason & was told to make sure I put them in I did,,, no breaks.
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Bought a new 9/11 converter about 4000/5000 miles later...... installed it; again was told I probably didn't need the spacers
1000 miles later (no track times with it) The second rotor crack was with the new and different converter. (7000 miles roughly on pump & tranny since the first break)
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The third rotor crack different rotor same pump same converter this time with the spacers .( roughly 400 miles later since the second break)
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So my question is am I doing something wrong?????
Could the high transmission pressures be causing this?
The ONE common denominator of all 3 breaks was when I ease into the throttle wide open for like 1/4 or 1/2 mile let off the gas. Once the car coast
coast to a stop no movement (broke rotor). This last time with the hairline crack it didn't break or shatter like the others did, I could still drive
around and even got on it quickly & off to see if I could pin point the clicking/ticking noise & see if it would break the rotor b4 I took it down and apart.
Again I never broke one at the track or cruising only when I've gotten on it & the car shifted in 4th gear. Do you think the 4th gear have something to do with it at WOT & then takes the rotor out on deceleration? That's the only thing I can figure and come up with & IF SO HOW & could someone explain why this would put so much pressure on the rotor at this time.......... SO I'LL KNOW NOT TO DO IT AGAIN. (maybe I need to get on it only in 3rd gear).
regular driving I don't break the rotor, even at the track I have not broke a rotor.
But this is my 3rd rotor break, the last one only had a hairline crack but was still functional, I just heard a clicking noise around the converter/pump area.
swapped converters it quieted down but still noticeable. Pulled the transmission and the hairline crack on the pump is what I found.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
The first rotor crack was with an EDGE converter & a completely different pump. (about 300/400 miles on new tranny & pump)(I left the spacers out of the converter/flexplate was the reason & was told to make sure I put them in I did,,, no breaks.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Bought a new 9/11 converter about 4000/5000 miles later...... installed it; again was told I probably didn't need the spacers
1000 miles later (no track times with it) The second rotor crack was with the new and different converter. (7000 miles roughly on pump & tranny since the first break)
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
The third rotor crack different rotor same pump same converter this time with the spacers .( roughly 400 miles later since the second break)
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
So my question is am I doing something wrong?????
Could the high transmission pressures be causing this?
The ONE common denominator of all 3 breaks was when I ease into the throttle wide open for like 1/4 or 1/2 mile let off the gas. Once the car coast
coast to a stop no movement (broke rotor). This last time with the hairline crack it didn't break or shatter like the others did, I could still drive
around and even got on it quickly & off to see if I could pin point the clicking/ticking noise & see if it would break the rotor b4 I took it down and apart.
Again I never broke one at the track or cruising only when I've gotten on it & the car shifted in 4th gear. Do you think the 4th gear have something to do with it at WOT & then takes the rotor out on deceleration? That's the only thing I can figure and come up with & IF SO HOW & could someone explain why this would put so much pressure on the rotor at this time.......... SO I'LL KNOW NOT TO DO IT AGAIN. (maybe I need to get on it only in 3rd gear).