RJC's Rear Engine Brace ??

Or just run the H&R Parts motor mounts and you won’t need it. But, Turbo Nasty is right heavy duty is the one to get.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
We tried but it doesn’t fit with a scatter shield. [emoji2377]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
i just put one in. I was cracking pass headers in the same spot. the engine was flexing under hard acceleration not a lot but enough to make me. Figured i'd try this as a little band aid till i can get some HR mounts. Wasn't a hard install, top bolt was though, had to bend the lip a bit to get to it. Noticed the engine wasn't flexing anymore. I'd a win for this product!
 
I wouldn’t waste money on it personally infact I was given one and I ran it for a week the ended up giving it away . As stated I would just get better motor mounts. The brace is like a bandaid for crappy motor mounts. Anyway hope it all works out for you and keep on spoolin!! :)
 
I’ve ran all the combinations.
Stock mounts
Stock mounts with torque strap
H&R Mounts on both sides
H&R mount on driver side only
Stock mounts with RJC brace

My car being a TTop car vibrates the tops way too much with the H&R mounts. The vibration noise at idle was unbearable.

My favorite combination for my car is fresh stock mounts with the Heavy Duty RJC brace with about 1/4” of preload. It works as advertised.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I will agree with those above about the vibration of H&R poly engine mounts, thought something was amiss when I got them changed over, they have "settled" a bit after 3,000 miles, but wish I would have went stock mounts with the RJC Heavy duty brace.
 
I like the stock mounts and brace. The transmission is what twists the block during acceleration. It does this at the back of the engine. If you stop the block from twisting at the front of the engine with a strap or rigid engine mounts,you are applying a force to the block that it similar to wringing out a wash cloth. I want to stop the rotation at the back of the block where the force is being applied to the block. Ideally,I would like a brace on both sides and stock mounts and never use a stiff trans mount.
 
I’ve ran all the combinations.
Stock mounts
Stock mounts with torque strap
H&R Mounts on both sides
H&R mount on driver side only
Stock mounts with RJC brace

My car being a TTop car vibrates the tops way too much with the H&R mounts. The vibration noise at idle was unbearable.

My favorite combination for my car is fresh stock mounts with the Heavy Duty RJC brace with about 1/4” of preload. It works as advertised.
Hey man, How you doing. I'm installing one in my car, with great difficulty. I had to notch the bottom of the brace to clear brake line. Also had to put spacers at the mounting points , to correct positioning. In regard to installation. I was thinking of what you said about "preload." Was this accomplished by running the motor while underneath tightening snubber? Take care...P.S. I do have new "stock" motor mounts now.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0570.JPG
    IMG_0570.JPG
    3.4 MB · Views: 479
  • IMG_0571.JPG
    IMG_0571.JPG
    3.3 MB · Views: 543
  • IMG_0572.JPG
    IMG_0572.JPG
    3.5 MB · Views: 461
I like the stock mounts and brace. The transmission is what twists the block during acceleration. It does this at the back of the engine. If you stop the block from twisting at the front of the engine with a strap or rigid engine mounts,you are applying a force to the block that it similar to wringing out a wash cloth. I want to stop the rotation at the back of the block where the force is being applied to the block. Ideally,I would like a brace on both sides and stock mounts and never use a stiff trans mount.
guys should really pay attention to this post if they want to go fast
 
I like the stock mounts and brace. The transmission is what twists the block during acceleration. It does this at the back of the engine. If you stop the block from twisting at the front of the engine with a strap or rigid engine mounts,you are applying a force to the block that it similar to wringing out a wash cloth. I want to stop the rotation at the back of the block where the force is being applied to the block. Ideally,I would like a brace on both sides and stock mounts and never use a stiff trans mount.

When you look at it from that angle, it's the block itself that's doing the twisting. It's trying to spin the crankshaft, and the car is trying to hold it still. With such a strong load on the crank, the block tries to 'orbit' it.

The block doesn't get twisted, it's trying to flip it self over since the rear diff (via inertia as ''energy'') is trying to hold the crankshaft stationary.

Tying the block/trans housing to the chassis is what forces the crank/trans guts/drive shaft/pinion/axles/wheels to turn (relative to the chassis). None of those components know where or how they're restrained.
 
I initially installed H and R mounts in my car...but they damn near rattled my fillings loose.
 
I’ve ran all the combinations.
Stock mounts
Stock mounts with torque strap
H&R Mounts on both sides
H&R mount on driver side only
Stock mounts with RJC brace

My car being a TTop car vibrates the tops way too much with the H&R mounts. The vibration noise at idle was unbearable.

My favorite combination for my car is fresh stock mounts with the Heavy Duty RJC brace with about 1/4” of preload. It works as advertised.



How do you Preload?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
When you look at it from that angle, it's the block itself that's doing the twisting. It's trying to spin the crankshaft, and the car is trying to hold it still. With such a strong load on the crank, the block tries to 'orbit' it.

The block doesn't get twisted, it's trying to flip it self over since the rear diff (via inertia as ''energy'') is trying to hold the crankshaft stationary.

Tying the block/trans housing to the chassis is what forces the crank/trans guts/drive shaft/pinion/axles/wheels to turn (relative to the chassis). None of those components know where or how they're restrained.
Now you reminded me of an old aircraft engine where the crank and pistons don't rotate. The block rotates.
 

Screw it till the rubber part slightly touches the frame at idle. Then lock it in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top