BuickPower3800
Turbo Buick's Rock!!
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2002
Has anyone used either of these? Im think of switching from Mobil 1 or should I just stick with it?
Red Line & Royal Purple
- Thread starter BuickPower3800
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BuickPower3800
Turbo Buick's Rock!!
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2002
I've heard from some that synthetic oil causes oil leaks, is that true?
- Joined
- May 29, 2001
NO, not true. Doesn't CAUSE leaks. BUT, because of it's thinner viscosity while cold, and (I'm assuming) superior molecular structure, synthetic oil will leak MUCH FASTER than normal oil where you HAVE leaks.
If you HAD a 2-drip-per-week leak with normal oil, you'll have a 2-drip per DAY leak with synthetic.
BuickPower3800
Turbo Buick's Rock!!
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2002
Oh ok so it will just make an existing leak worse.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
redline is better from what i've heard. BUT vp is supoust to be the best money can buy. i got this from someone i know that runs a low 6 sec. alterd and owns a performance shop, so he has plenty of different oils setting around waiting to be tryed out.
he was saying he droped a little over a tenth from redline to vp, at 6 sec. thats not a bad drop. they run it in their mini van, and say they gained 3 mpg on it. AND it doesnt' have to be changed as often. they went 1/2 a season in the alterd, and in the van only change oil every 8,500 miles. its something with most oils having some chlorine in them that makes them break down faster, making you have to change oil every 3,000 miles. it is a little on the expensive side, but not when you concider what you get. i'll be switching on my next oil change.
while were on the subject who makes a good oil filter?
he was saying he droped a little over a tenth from redline to vp, at 6 sec. thats not a bad drop. they run it in their mini van, and say they gained 3 mpg on it. AND it doesnt' have to be changed as often. they went 1/2 a season in the alterd, and in the van only change oil every 8,500 miles. its something with most oils having some chlorine in them that makes them break down faster, making you have to change oil every 3,000 miles. it is a little on the expensive side, but not when you concider what you get. i'll be switching on my next oil change.
while were on the subject who makes a good oil filter?
My friend who builds motors for Pro-Stockers and Pro-Mod guys runs Royal Purple.
He says the VP does make a bit more power but at the expense of substantially shorter component life; he says it has something to do with chlorine content in the VP oil. If you are going for all out power and don't care about stuff wearing out prematurely, go for it!
Redline is also good stuff, with a higher moly content than Mobil-1.
Honestly, for a street car I would stick with Mobil-1. Far easier to find and much cheaper than the Redline/Royal Purple/Motul/AMSoil/VP stuff and still a damn good oil. I prefer their Truck/SUV formula, as it is simply a relabeled version of their Delvac-1 HD fleet oil in disguise. Good stuff.
As far as good filters, Purolator, Wix, Mobil-1, Delco, Motorcraft, Champion Labs, the NAPA Golds are all good filters. Fram, at least on their run-of-the-mill Orange Cans uses cardboard endcaps on the filter element and have lackluster anti-drainback valves; I haven't cut apart one of Fram's "race" filters to see what is inside.
He says the VP does make a bit more power but at the expense of substantially shorter component life; he says it has something to do with chlorine content in the VP oil. If you are going for all out power and don't care about stuff wearing out prematurely, go for it!
Redline is also good stuff, with a higher moly content than Mobil-1.
Honestly, for a street car I would stick with Mobil-1. Far easier to find and much cheaper than the Redline/Royal Purple/Motul/AMSoil/VP stuff and still a damn good oil. I prefer their Truck/SUV formula, as it is simply a relabeled version of their Delvac-1 HD fleet oil in disguise. Good stuff.
As far as good filters, Purolator, Wix, Mobil-1, Delco, Motorcraft, Champion Labs, the NAPA Golds are all good filters. Fram, at least on their run-of-the-mill Orange Cans uses cardboard endcaps on the filter element and have lackluster anti-drainback valves; I haven't cut apart one of Fram's "race" filters to see what is inside.
heres my take on synthetic and leaks, on aircraft, which are like cars in pretty much all manners, there are 3 groups of oil/gasket materials, first being mineral oil, or regular engine oil whick use natural rubber for a sealing materail, 2nd group is synthetic which uses synthetic rubber as a sealing materail ( neoprene being a common one ) and then phospher esther base oils, which use buytl as a seal, but we don;t use PE oils in cars. So there is a difference in seals and oils, if it was an aircraft different seals would have to be used if the oil catagory would change, as mixing will cause leaks, thats a will, not a might, case in point: Chinook helicopters use synthetic hydraulic fluid in its system, the shocks and blade dampners use mineral based oil, cause there was a time that when synthetic oils wern't invented yet the whole helicopter used the mineral stuff, but we upgraded, but the shock and dampner never had an upgrade, so we must carry different oil just for them, if you stuff the synthetic oil in the shocks, you get leaks, the mineral oil maintains the softness of the seal, take away the mineral oil and replace it with a much more superior molacule, and you get hard seals, thats my 2 cents
Chris McDade
Active Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2001
I've been running Royal Purple for 2 years now with no problems.
It's expensive though, but the price is minner compared to the money I put into the rest of the car
Good Luck
It's expensive though, but the price is minner compared to the money I put into the rest of the car
Good Luck
good post
When I was an Olds man I had Royal Purple in them and noticed better fuel economy (Which rocked on the carb'd out cars)!! How did that stuff improve my MPG? And it kicked butt doing oil changes 2.5ish times a year... I might give it a go on the TR
According to the responses from this thread most have had positive reviews/critiques :-D
When I was an Olds man I had Royal Purple in them and noticed better fuel economy (Which rocked on the carb'd out cars)!! How did that stuff improve my MPG? And it kicked butt doing oil changes 2.5ish times a year... I might give it a go on the TR
According to the responses from this thread most have had positive reviews/critiques :-D
I did a lot of research on this a few months ago and I decided to stick with Mobil 1 and a Baldwin oil filter for the GN. Any of your synthetic oils are good, with that said, I do run Royal Purple 20/50 in my daily driver because I can change it twice a year.
Very interesting. It would be neat to get to the bottom of this. My friend can get just about anything he wants for free or at a very substantial discount through his connections and sponsors and does a lot of testing to determine what works best. He based his conclusion about VP off dyno numbers, track performance, and what the internals looked like every time he broke the motor down. He did say VP was worth on the average of 8-10 hp over the Royal Purple in the Pro-Stock motors (which could be the difference between winning and losing in that class!) but he did notice a very substantial difference in the conditions of bearings, pistons, lifters and bores with the VP stuff after a teardown-- it just didn't seem to lubricate as well as the Royal Purple.
Honestly I think we are just "splitting hairs" discussing some of these options as viable oils for a street car, or even a street/strip car. I would much rather lose a couple of HP and have better lubricating properties than gain a few HP at the expense of shorter engine component life. There is definately a point of "diminishing returns" when it comes to all things, oil included, and I don't think it's worth 2X the cost of Mobil-1 to go with one of the "other" brands given this application.
Personally, I run Mobil-1 and AMSoil in my vehicles, and the only reason one of my cars is on AMSoil is because that's what the engine had seen since the rebuild by the previous owner and I don't like changing brands mid-stream.
As far as extended drain intervals some people have mentioned, I wouldn't push your luck even with a high dollar synthetic unless you do oil analysis to establish your useful oil life. Just because a manufacturer says "Go 25,000 miles between changes!" doesn't mean YOUR CAR can go 25K miles on one change. Driving habits, condensation from short trips, blowby and the acidic byproducts it produces in the oil, oil consumption (and the make up oil you must add for the loss) and all sorts of other variables mean there is no "one size fits all" formula for determining oil life-- the only right way to do it is to do oil analysis for the first test of an extended drain interval to establish a useful oil life, and then you can use that for a baseline for future changes. You may find you can go even longer than you expect, or you may find the oil's useful life is gone far earlier than you expect. My '77 Elky went 15,500 miles on AMSoil last year (I submitted lab samples every few K miles.) I changed at one year regardless of mileage but the testing from Blackstone Labs at the end of the year said the oil still had ~2K of life left at that point.
i agree 100 percent with what Gokou said, as we in the aircraft industry us oil samples and lab results as our basis for changing oil, its not that the oil goes bad, oil can last a long long time, its the build up of combustion contaminates that makes oil unservicable, i run synthetic and change it like the manufacture recomends for regular oil, i am pretty sure that the manfacture is the best source of information on when the oil has gathered enough contaminates and when to change it, oil is to cheap to risk streaching out the interval, even at 40 dollars a change, engines are just too expensive.
Grant
Grant
