Recommended alignment

DAE

dazed and confused
Just curious if there is any particular alignment set-up for autocrossing a gn?
 

motorhead

motorhead mike
Well then you will take points for having anything other than a stock alignment within the allowable tolerances... making you less stock; and it could even move you up a class.

Here's what I run with the mods in the signature:
Camber
R = -2.0* & L = -2.0*
Caster
R = 4.0* & L = 4.0*
Toe
3/16” (IN)
 

scot w.

GNSperformance.com
Just curious if there is any particular alignment set-up for autocrossing a gn?
Here is what my car is set at...


Camber- Right = -1.5* & Left = -1.5*

Caster- Right = 6.15* & Left = 6.15*

Toe- 3/32” (IN)


Car has the following:

Full Detroit Speed Suspension (2" drop springs)
BAER Brakes Front & Rear
Stock OEM spindles
DSE frame braces

Scot W.
 

c6v6

Member
Mr T, Scott-

Is that alignment also good for everyday use on the tires? And what shocks would be good for Autocross and everyday use?

Thanks for any information...

Rodney
 

scot w.

GNSperformance.com
Mr T, Scott-

Is that alignment also good for everyday use on the tires? And what shocks would be good for Autocross and everyday use?

Thanks for any information...

Rodney
Rodney,

I keep my alignment the same all the time and have no abnormal tire wear and this is going on the second year now of Auto-X & street driving so I would have to say Yes mine is good for everyday use on the tires.

On the shocks the ultimate would be a Double Adjustable Coil Over shock for the adjustability of the ride height and compression & rebound.. and if you plan to use regular coil springs and gas shocks I personally like to use a shock that is valved properly to match the coil spring rate for optimum performance and ride quality.


Scot W.
 

Dieselnuts

New Member
Well then you will take points for having anything other than a stock alignment within the allowable tolerances... making you less stock; and it could even move you up a class.

Here's what I run with the mods in the signature:
Camber
R = -2.0* & L = -2.0*
Caster
R = 4.0* & L = 4.0*
Toe
3/16” (IN)

Just curious, why would you run toe in for autocross?
 

jlat

Well-Known Member
hello; X-mass is coming up and if your a good boy maybe you can get one if you put it on your list. That is a RC model car. I use to do it and forgot alot of what I've learned with set up. With it you can experiment and see exactly what happens with adjustments made. You'd be surprised what you might learn.
have fun
IBBY
 
question; when i'm driving along on straight road , i seem to have to correct a little, back and forth, like it wants to wander a little.
could it be toe setting?

have SPC adjutable uppers, SPC springs, Bilsteins, Howe lower tall joints, Lee 670 str. box, 18" Beyrens 4 nittos

2002 Camaro brakes all around, carbon pads.
 

charlief1

RIP Charlie!
With the mods you have done there's several reasons your car could be wandering on the road but more info is needed. What are the specs on the alignment first?
 

jdpolzin

Well-Known Member
Here is what my car is set at...


Camber- Right = -1.5* & Left = -1.5*

Caster- Right = 6.15* & Left = 6.15*

Toe- 3/32” (IN)


Car has the following:

Full Detroit Speed Suspension (2" drop springs)
BAER Brakes Front & Rear
Stock OEM spindles
DSE frame braces

Scot W.


I'm curious as to why they didnt do a "0-1/16 Toe OUT" with that aggressive of a setting. Any idea why they went in instead of out? I'm thinking of doing another heavier setting on my car going from these settings:
Camber: -.60
Caster: 3.5*
Toe In: 3/32"


Changing to:

Camber: -1.5
Caster: 4.75*
Toe: 0

I'm a little hesitant on the toe being at "0" but I've chatted with quite a few local heavy hitters with medium size/weight cars like our G Bodies and most are really happy with this spec. Granted, everyones car is going to act differently depending on each cars' individual components. But, most people have decent camber curve adjusted set ups. The only problem I'm seeing is a possiblity of tracking a little, following grooves in the road.
 
got my specs finally. 85GN LS 6.0L, SPC springs and SPC adjustable upper arms, bilstiens, 670 str. box, 1 1/4" anti-roll bar frt. 11/16 rear bar,poly bushes, howe tall lowers ball,, 18" beyrens, nitto all around,, 2002 SS camaro brakes,, and the best sounding V8 exhaust ever ,3" all the way no cats , Magnaflow at the rear.

all poly, body to frame mounts. all this and NO LSD ,stock 8.5" 10bolt,ARGHH! makes slow left corners OK , but dont like RH turns power on!

camber - 0.4*

caster 5.0*

toe .0 to .02" out

tech guy says that could make wander on flat road, toe out instead of IN a little!

car seems to handle well ,except at full lock and low speed(under 5mph), lot of scrub on pavement.

tires wear on outside edge, not terrible but more than inside edge.

but feels better at high speeds! the faster i go the better it handles, but im not driving in anger!

i dont know if i should change settings?? i really dont track the car, maybe once in while, special occations.

YEAH, i know , i gotta make my own choices!

RON
 

charlief1

RIP Charlie!
It should be toe in not out. With the caster set that high you will also see a lot of edge wear on the tires. Did you also get a bump steer correction kit for it?
 

jdpolzin

Well-Known Member
It should be toe in not out. With the caster set that high you will also see a lot of edge wear on the tires. Did you also get a bump steer correction kit for it?


I would have to disagree. With a hardcore road course or Autocross set up, most guys go "0" ot 2-3/32 toe out. For regular street driving, it's not desirable to have a 0-or toe out alignment becuase the car tends to track. BUT, if you are road coursing it, the car handles better without the TOE IN. It gives the car a lot less of an "edgie" feeling.
 

charlief1

RIP Charlie!
I would have to disagree. With a hardcore road course or Autocross set up, most guys go "0" ot 2-3/32 toe out. For regular street driving, it's not desirable to have a 0-or toe out alignment becuase the car tends to track. BUT, if you are road coursing it, the car handles better without the TOE IN. It gives the car a lot less of an "edgie" feeling.
Up to a point Jeremy. With the fact that the steering parts are pulled by the front tires toward the outside it streches (sp) the parts so you get more toe out. It's common on dirt cars to give the settings toe out as well and it does work in some conditions. That's why I brought up the bump steer correction kit. If you're using one it's not as much an issue but with out it then it makes it work better since it lets the knuckles don't move in the correct arc.
 
Up to a point Jeremy. With the fact that the steering parts are pulled by the front tires toward the outside it streches (sp) the parts so you get more toe out. It's common on dirt cars to give the settings toe out as well and it does work in some conditions. That's why I brought up the bump steer correction kit. If you're using one it's not as much an issue but with out it then it makes it work better since it lets the knuckles don't move in the correct arc.

it has a Howe lower balljoint ,tall kit, is that a Bump steer kit?
ron
 
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