Rebuilt transmission not shifting quite right

[raregn]

As the title says, my 200-4R was completely re-built this summer.
It was done locally by a reputable transmission builder, it shifts ok but when I get on it the 2-3 shift is not quite right. 1-2 shift is phenomenal, but there is a flare on the 2-3 shift. Unless I'm driving and put it down causing a downshift, then the 3-2 downshift is great and then I will get rubber in 3rd at WOT.
It has all Red Line clutches and band, all new steels, billet accumulator, Trans-Go stage 2 shift kit, every bushing, bearing and seal has been changed as well. Also using a stock converter that was cut open, cleaned, re-welded and balanced. And I'm sure there is more that I don't remember off the top of my head.
It seems that there is something that is happening when the transmission starts off in 1st that it doesn't really like.

 

[BUICK231]

As the title says, my 200-4R was completely re-built this summer.
It was done locally by a reputable transmission builder, it shifts ok but when I get on it the 2-3 shift is not quite right. 1-2 shift is phenomenal, but there is a flare on the 2-3 shift. Unless I'm driving and put it down causing a downshift, then the 3-2 downshift is great and then I will get rubber in 3rd at WOT.
It has all Red Line clutches and band, all new steels, billet accumulator, Trans-Go stage 2 shift kit, every bushing, bearing and seal has been changed as well. Also using a stock converter that was cut open, cleaned, re-welded and balanced. And I'm sure there is more that I don't remember off the top of my head.
It seems that there is something that is happening when the transmission starts off in 1st that it doesn't really like.

Need to connect a pressure gauge on it and see what it is at idle, reverse, and drive. At idle you can disconnect the tv cable and pull slightly on it, you should see the pressure slightly rise. If it fluctuates, or does not rise it may indicate a problem. Start there.
Here is,what i got from my CK PERFORMANCE book.....
Psi @ min tv travel is 90psi in park
Psi@ min travel in reverse is 130
Psi@ min travel in neutral is 90
Psi@ min travel in drive 4 is 90
Psi@min travel in drive 3 is 90
Psi@min travel ib drive 2 is 155
Psi@min travel in drive 1 is 155

Now, tv full travel in ......
Park is 240psi
Reverse is 275psi
Neutral is 240psi
Drive 4 is 240 psi
Drive 3 is240 psi
Drive 2 is,300
Drive 1 is 300

These,numbers may be slightly higher because the trans has been upgraded.
That's where I'd start with.
Of course, youll need someone to help or you can try yourself. Remember your not holding it for a long time.


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[TexasT]

if it is "flaring" going 2nd to 3rd it probably isn't going to get better on its own. Not sure who this "reputable" builder is but I would have to say the clearance on the direct clutch pack is crucial for a crisp 2-3 shift. Do you know what your direct was setup at?did the over haul include larger boost and rev boost valves?
I'm not a real big fan of transgo kits. Do you know what was included in this "stage 2" kit that was installed?

 

[McHaggis]

I agree with Rich. It isn't going to sort itself. I've forgotten lots since I built my trans but the 2-3 shift is all about timing. Not only do you need to apply the directs but you need to push the servo back to release the band. The band letting go too soon causes the flare. IIRC. Dual feeding the directs makes this worse due to the increased volume of oil required to get the directs locked up.
Best advice I can give is.... Ring David Husek. He may charge to help get it sorted but the best advice is never free. That's why it's worth getting.
PS Gudday Rich. Hope yours is running great still.