Rebuilt engine with Bulletproof head gasket leaking water like crazy

Probably easiest to start with pulling the valve covers and checking the torque and amount ot threads showing.
 
My thought it is not a proper head gasket, especially for a turbo V-6?

We use Felpro head gasket 9441-PT with NO sealant, but torque at least 4 times before the engine is started, and a couple times after it is has been run.

Also, as mentioned, be sure the bolts or studs MUST all be the proper length to secure the head when torqued.
 
Nick, it was according to the wisdom at the forum back then the best gasket to use if I wanted to push the pressure a bit (which I wanted back when I was going to put it in my Starfire). But I think the actual problem may be that the studs are too long.

I just spoke to him, and he told me that the engine hadn't been running for more than a minute when the water started to come out of the exhaust. Also he did not think any got into the oil. The whole thing is weird. I am still getting a video, it only takes a bit of time.
 
How do I share an mp4 video here? it sais "the uploaded file does not have an allowed extension".
 
I think you have to put in on You Tube and then post the link.
 
I can't believe nobody's mentioned raw water (possibly, rain water) in the intake. If water is 'pouring' out spark plug holes, that's not a weeping head gasket, that'd have to be a hole!

With four cylinders that dead, I'd like to see a few compression test numbers. (and then some leak down numbers when/if the comp test comes back OK).
 
ek02, thanks! Here it is:
You can see the water coming up as from a train.

EarlBrown (glad some things doesn't change in years, like your avatar! ;) ), I can't see there coming any water into the system, the engine has not been stored outside or anything. But it has been standing two south Norwegian winters in my brother's garage, which is not insulated. South Norwegian winters means constantly changes between below and above freezing point, and very moist air when it's above freezing point. Also he drives in there with his car, and it will release snow onto the floor that melts a couple of meters from the engine on the stand. Is it possible that this can be an extreme buildup of condensation in the intake/carb?

The engine has been stored with the original plastic cap taped over the opening in the carb, but that is or fours only splash proof, not airtight. Maybe I should ask the buyer if he tasted the water coming out and knows if it's coolant or plain water?
 
It was coolant, he was totally sure. At first the engine ran like a dream, it started very easily and for a minute it all seemed perfect. Then it started to smoke a bit, and then more and more, until a few seconds later the coolant killed the engine. They tok out the plugs, ran it on the starter and blew the rest of it out, and they emptied the cooling system. So it wasn't water in anything, it was coolant.
 
ek02, thanks! Here it is:

EarlBrown (glad some things doesn't change in years, like your avatar! ;) ),


I wish the software still let it move...

CA05MVMH---5.gif
 
Ouch... That sounds scarily expensive. But should it run perfectly for a minute first, before stuff happens? And more important: Wouldn't that release coolant into all six, not three on one side and one on the other side?
 
I had a mechanic (a very good and experienced one, who's worked a lot on rally engines and similar, but of course not on the V6 Turbo, almost nobody in Norway has done that) rebuild my 1983 Turbo (an engine that had been standing in a shop since '83 and until I bought it), which I was going to use on an Oldsmobile Starfire. The build was finished between one and a half and two years ago, and then life happened. We moved to a place without a garage, and I had to give up the project. The car was sold, and I put the engine on the Norwegian equivalent of Craigslist. It took time, but I finally got it sold to a guy who was going to use it in a Riviera. He put it in, and two days ago I got a phone call that wasn't very uplifting.

The engine started, and the it began leaking water out of the exhaust. He tried to run it on the starter without plugs, and water came up of four of six plug holes! That must be the most catastrophic failure of a head gasket I've ever heard about! I mailed JCB Racing two days ago, but I haven't had an answer. Probably because he's on vacation, most normal people are these days...

So what can cause this bad a failure? The gasket was (as far as I could tell, I was there, but I'm no mechanic by far) mounted the way the instructions said, with the silicone and all, but I'm guessing it's not meant to stand waiting for more than one and a half year before being used. Can that be the reason, or does this have to be an error in mounting? And is there any way to come back from this if it's the time that's the problem? If not I do of course have to pay back parts of the money he paid for the engine, and that hurts. Especially since I'm already way over $1000 in the red on the engine alone (not to mention the car, which was sold very cheaply since it was difficult to get rid of). I sold the engine for around 2000 and that was the money I paid for only the engine and transport to Norway. In addition there was around 1000 to have it rebuilt and then the gasket kits and so on. So I'm probably close to 2000 in the red. The buyer has asked for around 800 of the 2000 back for replacing the head gaskets. (Remember this is Norway where labour costs are much higher than in the US).
i have never had a problem with the rjc gasket they work good.something else for sure.what kind of coolant was the motor stored with?
 
Ouch... Wouldn't that release coolant into all six, not three on one side and one on the other side?

Depends on where the leak is, the shape of the plenum area, and the angle of the engine.

I had a fuel line leak in a 4.3 Blazer years ago that would only fuel fowl the drivers side of the engine.
 
Leak down test would tell u a lot aswell as a coolant pressure test
 
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