Rear Frame X member brace

[turbo89]

I have 5 sets of brackets so that's all I will make ... at least for now ... just waiting on Moly bar to come in ..

My car would be a great car to test the results on being a T-top car ... so as soon as its on the road again I can give more details.

 

[Boston GN]

I have 5 sets of brackets so that's all I will make ... at least for now ... just waiting on Moly bar to come in ..

My car would be a great car to test the results on being a T-top car ... so as soon as its on the road again I can give more details.

Sounds great. Thanks for taking on this project

 

[Pronto]

I have 5 sets of brackets so that's all I will make ... at least for now ... just waiting on Moly bar to come in ..

My car would be a great car to test the results on being a T-top car ... so as soon as its on the road again I can give more details.

Keep us informed.

 

[Justa_v6]

How much would this sell for?



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[hawkfan]

Any updates on this? I was going to make my own using 1x1" square tubing bolted to the lower bumper bracket bolts but this looks like a better/stronger engineered brace.

 

[coach]

Any updates on this? I was going to make my own using 1x1" square tubing bolted to the lower bumper bracket bolts but this looks like a better/stronger engineered brace.

The brackets are for sale at GNS PERFORMANCE.

 

[hawkfan]

The brackets are for sale at GNS PERFORMANCE.

Oh yeah I've seen those but I can't weld, even though a welded x brace would be ideal. A complete bolt in brace would be nice even if it has slotted holes to account for differences in G body frames.

 

[turbo89]

Any updates on this? I was going to make my own using 1x1" square tubing bolted to the lower bumper bracket bolts but this looks like a better/stronger engineered brace.

its mounted up .. brackets been done... just waiting on the weather to break so I can go try it out at the track ... wont be much longer unless we get another 8" of snow

 

[coach]

Oh yeah I've seen those but I can't weld, even though a welded x brace would be ideal. A complete bolt in brace would be nice even if it has slotted holes to account for differences in G body frames.

If you mount the brackets, almost any muffler shop should be able to cut the tubing and weld it in place for you. Or most any garage with a good, wheels on lift. I do not think I would weld it in with the suspension hanging under the car.

 

[VaderGN]

Where or from whom would you get the correct strength tubing from? And what better square or round tubing?


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[hawkfan]

If you mount the brackets, almost any muffler shop should be able to cut the tubing and weld it in place for you. Or most any garage with a good, wheels on lift. I do not think I would weld it in with the suspension hanging under the car.

Now I didn't think of that. This question was already asked above, but what wall thickness do you recommend for the tubing? There's 1/16" thick 1x1" square and 2x1" rectangular tubing available at Lowes and HD but I'm thinking that's too thin.

 

[Pronto]

I believe the lengths at HD are too short.

 

[coach]

I use Chassisshop.com
I plan on using 1 1/2 round tubing with the 0.065 wall. The brace is not load bearing, it just helps with twist. Remember...all the pressure is on the bolts holding the brackets to the bumper...not so much on the bar. The brace will not be moving...if it were to move enough to bend 0.065 wall tubing....you've got bigger issues.
*****Caution...the price listed in the websight is for 1 INCH....not a foot.****

 

[1952ray]

I use Chassisshop.com
I plan on using 1 1/2 round tubing with the 0.065 wall. The brace is not load bearing, it just helps with twist. Remember...all the pressure is on the bolts holding the brackets to the bumper...not so much on the bar. The brace will not be moving...if it were to move enough to bend 0.065 wall tubing....you've got bigger issues.
*****Caution...the price listed in the websight is for 1 INCH....not a foot.****

I agree with what you say. If there is going to be an issue it will be because of twist. Which leads me to the weld joint . It will not bend the tube, however if it fails it's going to break at the weld joint . So would you think .156 wall DOM pipe would be better only from the stand point of a much stronger weld. Use to supply Club Car golf cart tops. The tubing always work well. But going up and down hills, twisting, the failure was always broken welds. I know this is apples and oranges. But would like to know what you think

 

[coach]

You gotta remember....there's NOTHING there now. It's really only going to assist on a launch or hard acceleration. If the frame is twisting enough to break the weld...think of the pressure the bolts are under. I think the 0.065 wall is plenty...but 0.095 can be bought for not much more. I think .125 will work but its just heavy.

 

[1952ray]

Thanks, does make sense. Are you going to fab up your own brackets or buy what Scot at GNS has come up with?

 

[coach]

I designed those brackets...
Chuck Leeper had them built...
ScotW is selling...
I have one of the first pair already.

***Edit...***
I should be more clear. I showed Chuck a sketch of how I was going to make a brace for my car. I laid under my car and measured it out for Chuck. Chuck took the idea and brought it too life. He made it exactly like I had it planned. This rear brace still allows for the gas tank to be removed. It is not in the way of the filler neck.

 

[1952ray]

I designed those brackets...
Chuck Leeper had them built...
ScotW is selling...
I have one of the first pair already.

My word, should have know that with the skill set you have. How thick are they, what ga?

 

[VaderGN]

Hello Coach is this the one part # "41-112-065" ROUND CHROMOLY TUBE on the site you mention chassisshop?


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[coach]

Hello Coach is this the one part # "41-112-065" ROUND CHROMOLY TUBE on the site you mention chassisshop?


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Yep...41( meaning 4130 steel) 112 ( meaning 1 1/2" diameter) and 065 ( meaning wall thickness of 0.065)
41-112-065
This should work for even a full on racecar.